PowerUser

Which one of these 2 options - JASolar 540W or CanadianSolar 595W panels would fit better one MPPT of the 5kW SunSynk better? In the calculations guide which I used - PV current is not taken into consideration. The JASolar current is Imp = 12.97A, The CanadianSolar current is Imp = 17.15A. So looks like the CanadianSolar are producing more power by increasing the current and not the voltage. According to what the forum users are saying, the SunSynk with the latest firmware should have PV Input Current of 18A per MPPT. The datasheet lists 11A only. I'm not sure, if because of that the CanadianSolar will be a better option. But on the other hand a string of CanadianSolar can produce Maximum theoretical power by max string NOCT = 4450W. The JASolar can produce Maximum theoretical power by max string NOCT = 3264W. The Max. DC Input Power for the inverter is 6500W. So, if I add another string later, with JASolar, the 2 MPPT inputs may be are going to be balanced better. Let me know of your opinions please!

Ha, ha… you want to steal power from the office and use it at home. That’s new… 🤣🤣🤣

Does the EL trip when there is no load connected to the inverter at all?

@GnomeI’m asking to find out, if you have a better plan than me. I considered for a while building my own LFP battery bank but if you add on top of your cost, a nice metal enclosure and a good bench power supply to top balance the cells initially, plus all the time and extra resources to program the BMS, the cost of the whole thing will be the same, if not even higher than a nice commercial battery of the same size. And on top of that if something breaks - cell or BMS, it will be a long time until one gets a replacement from China. That’s why at end, I just went and bought a Hubble. Inside the Hubble, the terminals are even laser welded to the buss bars. Something not easy to do DIY in any case.

Have you included in the cost a nice metal enclosure for everything to be packed nicely and mounted on the wall securely, not obstructing anything? in order to be able to compare the cost vs commercial battery, that’s a must What happens, if your BMS goes faulty? How long, until you are able to use the battery again?

That aluminium bar might be thicker but the surface are which touches the terminals is still the same. So, that’s your bottleneck for conductivity. If that area is not sufficient for aluminium, it doesn’t matter how wide and thick, the rest of the bus bar is. I have never seen in any videos or DIY guides, anyone using aluminium bus bars. But I have seen people polishing the terminals and the areas of the copper bus bars touching them, in order to improve the conductivity even more. What is your calculations for the total cost of the battery anyway?

I think, chances are by the time the Pylons or any other commercial battery reaches its lifetime, the BMS will be outdated to handle the available new packs at that time. They are talking now, about solid state batteries to replace the lithium ones in near future. But we will have to wait and see. Regarding the enclosure, you might still find one way or another to be able to use it somehow.

SunSynk is a bidirectional inverter. Besides that it blends all power sources, it can push power back to the non-essential side, when the battery is above specified level and there is excess solar power. This way, you use a smaller inverter 5kW, even if your requirements are higher. It will supplement and reduce your electricity bills for the non-essentials. Growatt can’t do anything about the non-essential loads, even if you have excess PV power.

The Riot is only for the Hubble batteries It doesn’t show anything regarding the inverter, loads, etc. Besides - read the thread. He is getting Pylons. Not Hubble.

@cyber7 https://www.sunsynk.org/remote-monitoring

@Tariq, if different SOC based on different days is possible and working correctly, that would be great. IMO, that's a very important setting, in order to maintain and extend the live of the Hubble Lithium batteries and possibly other brands. According to Hubble, one has to charge the battery to 100% at least ones a week. I assume, that is required because of some sort of balancing and call maintenance build into their BMS. But on the other hand, in general, it's not good to charge and keep the battery at 100% every day. Currently with the build-in options on the SunSynk interface, different SOC based on different days, is not possible. Unfortunately, I wasn't one of the "chosen ones" to get a beta dongle, so not able to test it myself.

@cyber7 you can do your research but I would say, don't buy any monitoring software yet. The native SunSynk dongle is currently in beta testing and should be available soon in production. Rather wait and see, if it can provide the desired functionality.

@Tariq and @De0n19 can you please let me know, if the above is possible?

Rather look at Hubble AM-4, instead of S-100.

@shifttymikesearch the forum. There is various threads with diagrams how to wire an inverter correctly.

When did you upgrade to this version? Is this very recent? You should log a case with their tech support for the modbus issue.

You should be able to see that in the flow diagram on the inverter screen. Not sure about an app to log and report historical records for non-essential power flow.

How do you get the battery to show on that screen? I don’t have PV yet but I have a battery, which does not show as yours. See below:

You should have a bypass/changeover switch installed by whoever did the initial installation. If not, you have to get that installed now. It’s a requirement for inverter systems, exactly for such situations - maintenance, inverter or batteries failure, etc.

Can you please share the link for the Mecer. If, you are not planning for solar, an online inverter would make more sense but the cost and need of pure sine wave should be justified first. A lithium battery would still be better in any case.

One cannot see your attachment but you buy new lead acid batteries, you will be able to draw only 50% max of their capacity before recharging them. With lithium, you can draw 80% to 100% of the capacity. And on top of that, the lead acid will last much less. So, the upfront price might look cheaper but in a long term, that’s not the case. If you are planning to spend 40k, for a marginal more, you can get a SunSynk 5kW with a nice lithium battery to match it, instead of Mecer.

Not sure of your location but if you live in very windy area, rather leave the panels mounted flush to the roof and add extra for better protection. It might be more complicated and costly to windproof the mountings with tilted angle, than to add couple of extra panels.

Take everyone’s opinion as a consideration as well but ask the supplier of the new inverter what fuse sizes they recommend. If you have an issue in future, you will have to deal with them. And in any case, I think, the old inverter’s supplier was just looking for excuses to reject the warranty.

How old are the batteries?

Are these screenshots supposed to be good or bad? It would help most of us, unfamiliar with your monitoring application, to point and highlight exactly what we are supposed to be looking at and explain what’s going on…