Scorp007

As per @Bobster. I got my heat pump 13 yrs ago. It is still running very well. I did have a Kwikot for 2 days and it was removed to fit the ITS which I wanted to install in the 1st place. The installer/seller agreed that the Kwikot was not working well. At the time ITS was the only heat pump with a loading valve that does not just mix the incoming cold water with the hot water in the geyser. I have had very few leaves/debris clogging the condenser :). This could be because it is mounted on a high wall but just above the roof. No free leaves can be sucked in by the fan. I just blow it out once year. I use PV to drive the heat pump during the day and will not think twice if I need hot water to dump 1.5kWh of battey power for a heating cycle. Most days the heat pump only runs for 1 hour using 1.5 kWh to heat to 55 degrees. This is around 30-40% what any size element would use to create the same amount of hot water. I cannot think of being without a heat pump due to the savings in power used - no matter what source is used to heat the water.

The latter price is great for the buyer 😀

Is the Heat tech not similar to the common Kwikot?

Where are you based? Province/town/city.

Just to use the wasted PV to cover the 10 or so bad days in summer has the worst ROI. It's just like most nice to have items. One thinks you really need it at the time of buying. If one looks at my winter yields they are close to the good summer days as it means my battery is just fully charged a hour later. In your case it could mean you just end the night at 80+% compared to now? depending on your current battery size.

Don't want to cause a stir around all the many posts on cable lengths. Even with a say 0.1V drop on the + cable and 0.2V on the negative the inverter receives 0.3V less than at the battery terminals. We try to keep them the same but nobody will be able to notice a difference than if both had a 0.1V drop. No risk within reason or performance. All we can see is the measured difference in length. Even support guys can give answers on what they have to reply😀 If we want to split hairs then the + can be longer as the BMS switching the - does introduce a larger volt drop due to this switch.

I just love the winter yields. This month might give the same yield as in March even with the shorter day and some shade after 12h due to long shadows. The winter yields are so predictable in Gauteng. Below my yields in 2024 showing the winter/summer yields. From Sep major changes took place. Inverter off from 24-09-2024.

Quoted: If the BMS is connected, the Li-BMS screen could tell you that, but if someone's running in Voltage mode? Might have to go back to the manual to verify settings in that case. My reply: I am running close to off grid. MTD only used 10kWh grid and that is when more than 2-3 gadgets are used in the kitchen. Still wondering why @Toxxyc is having this problem. I don't even get F56 when the lawn mower of 1.8kW starts before PV kicks in before 08h00 running from battery only with grid off. My battery is then at around 35% SOC. I use a 5kW Deye with 8kWh battery power. The above is the reason why I suspect a battery/settings problem.

It seems OK. As soon as the panels try to provide amps this volts would just collapse to close to nothing.

I would disconnect the battery/ies that are at the high SOC and then allow PV to charge the lower ones to also reach say 4 x LEDs on. With now cloud in Gauteng we are currently having good PV yields even if the day is shorter.

Mine in graphic mode. Discharge about 26% from 0h00 to around 07h30. Last 2 load spikes are for the 2 fridges with outside lights off.

What is your location - town or city?

Not want to the bearer of bad news but the quick charging means the batteries do not have 230Ah. I would suggest that they are overcycled as another reply earlier. If the battery back to grid is 48V they should last quite longer. I have supplied 100Ah battery used on a brick inverter and being lead acid they held up well for over 2 yrs. I still belief it is due to ever being allowed to drop below 12V per battery. For about R900 a battery balancer is cheap vs battery cost. I also agree with not discharging at more than the 15% Ah capacity. The same level for charging. As your charge rate is below this it would not be related to this metric. At this stage it seems those batteries don't seem to be very healthy. Your charge levels do seem to be good for lead acid. My personal level for charged lead acid after hours of resting do seem to suggest 12.8-13V per battery.

The extra loss due to the longer cable is about 0.4W on my calculation which is close to nothing more than the shorter cable due to the 44% extra length 😀 180 vs 125

I agree with how you put it. I would not think the BMS is always correct and for this reason we sometimes need to fully charge/discharge the battery to get the BMS to sort of reset upper and lower SOC.

Get in touch with the seller @jlr . He still had 2 x 2.5kWh for sale yesterday. See the classifieds for details.

Not sure if there is a CORRECT way. Personally I would leave it at 100Ah as when the inverter reports 50% then you have 50Ah available to zero SOC. Easier to calculate than to get what is 50% of 93 than 50% of 100. It could mean that you will never see 100% SOC. The inverter sums the Ah going in and out of the battery. My own view.

+1 for a great simple answer that works very well for me. I use voltage settings due to different batteries without comms and it just work very well.

Get the installer to check if the batteries are charging to a high SOC or reduce your load during the night. Also set the timer to use grid say 04h to 07h or the after the time you make coffee.(use a higher SOC than what you have now) This will cause grid to assist to keep the battery at a high enough voltage to prevent error f56. Also investigate if at a highish SOC why the battery voltage dips too low.

Great insight into this topic. Just on frequency some industries like steel smelters are very fussy when it comes to frequency. Some of these consumers have under frequency cubicles just for this purpose. They set the frequency at the level that their power lines should be tripped out. This level is much higher than what would be used for the country as a whole. Years ago with lots of space generation power stations tendered each day to supply power to the transmission business unit. Some of the most expensive stations were only used when the cheaper stations had a problem on a generator. This was the time that Eskom was run as 3 business units. Generation, transmission and then distribution. Even the pool of money for bonuses for good performance against kpi's were measured against how well they performed. This was in the good old days.

I hope there is less panic from members when they see a frequency 49.5-50.5Hz as has been explained. This is very normal with no equipment not functioning. May be it's time for some systems to have high inertia driving some generators purely for the sake of proving a more stable grid. PV by day and battery by night. This video provided by one of our members does explain the events in Spain and that the grid only had serious problems once 47.5Hz was reached. @zsde Could it be a good thing for us to lower our min frequency setting on inverters? Luckily in SA PV does not contribute such a high % of power. Thank Eskom for forming the STABLE grid. 😀😀 Worth a watch. Only 3min long.

From the forum it seems members are happy with them.

If a normal freestanding using 4 plates and oven it could get to about 35A. Its essential to know what loads can be on at the same time or one need to disable then when on battery power as to not exceed the inverter size.

Do you plan to power all the loads from a single phase from the 2x8kW inverters? Currently it seems like you thus have 3 x 60A available. If you are a high power user the 1 x 60A from grid might be too little. More info is needed like what is the peak load you have from the 3 phase supply to work out if you can run on single phase. Do you have any 3 ph loads like pumps or other equipment?