Scorp007

No 79mm available. I am sure a typing error via spell checker for 70mm

In other words. You should use the same neutral that fed the geyser before fitting the Astude.

Is the 600V not the RMS AC value and the maximum peak value 1000V for the common armoured cable 600/1000V?

, if I have 100w Solar, but my load is 500w, the inverter will pull the deficit from the battery and not from the grid? The above statement is actually what you want by not pulling from the grid but from battery when above the setting point. Later in your post you mention when there are clouds the inverter pulls from grid when you want to pull from battery. Do you have the unused time slots correct as per the manual as well as priority?

A loose connection is not ruled and that is why I asked to see each of the strings for PV value on the master. One would just expect a loose connection not to stay at highish current for a longish time like after 15h30 before it dropped in line with the slave due to lower irradiation.

That was my 1st thought but at peak production after 12h such a panel was still producing the maximum current for over 90min.

I am making an assumption that you have 6panels in series on each string. 2 strings connected to each of the MPPTs. I would look when the master output is less like after 11h00 what is the PV value indicated on each inverter screen and provide the 4 readings. If the delta was 11h30 to 14h00 I would have thought may be a bad connection in one of the six in series on the master inverter.

I think the OP has a problem more with intermittent operation than the way the actual dongle reports. We have found other devices that also just stops working when using a hot spot instead of a fixed router. Unlike Sonoffs which looks for the WiFi on a regular basis the inverter dongle might not once it's lost the connectivity.

With no data point for PV at 09h25 and 09h30 but jumping from 09h20 to 09h35 tells me that the dongle was not connected to WiFi. In order to see the different PV values which does change and normally not steady is the reason I mentioned to use a time frame where there is PV like the 08h to 14h period indicated in a previous reply. I had long DEAD periods on my inverter which was caused by using a hot spot. The moment I was connected to a proper router on the same network this DEAD time was no longer present. What was strange is this DEAD time varied a lot day to day. It was as if the dongle did not reconnect. Further at times it would reconnect after I switched off the hot point and on again it worked. At other times I had to reboot the inverter. Example of data point at 12h and only at 18h after switching off and back on of the hot spot. In your case you could perhaps try to use another WiFi connection and see if it improves.

This article refers to non phosphate lithium. Li-Ion.

If the caps are the normal 0.1uF 50V then you can buy on line from Communica. Then you have them real quick as well. Not an expensive item and courier will be more than the caps.

Just provide a graph of a longer time frame of say 6 hours during a time that the PV would rise and drop like 8h to 14h. That should indicate if there is a period that the dongle does not upload to the server.

Interesting on your inverter. On my Deye the UPS shows zero when no PV and no grid used. The battery draw is close to identical to the consumption. Part of the consumption is self use by the inverter.

I think we must be fair here. On sub 10 degrees heat pumps do take longer but that being only about 2 months in the year. Further I wonder if you have compared the 750W heat pump to a 750W element when saying the heat pump takes longer. A 750W element compared to the normal 4kW element in a 200L geyser would take about 5.3 times longer. Then your 5hrs a day for the heat pump does not look that bad in comparison.

Just phone a few scrap metal dealers. They pay per kg in weight. Just sold all my old bike and gate motor batteries this way. 200Ah I got about R10/kg

If the 2 on the RHS were a double pole you can put blue and brown through the 2 poles. If they are single as in your case then I would not. The green being earth should NEVER be broken. If broken and a fault happens and it trips you can be electrocuted. Perhaps use a sparky to do the connections correct. Life is worth more than the money saved!

Even if you can use all the PV power the prediction looks very optimistic. 35kwh at a maximum looks more in line than the 48kwh indicated. Most of us have around 25% of PV wasted with lowish loads and battery fully charged.

Could you indicate what panels as in quantity and size as well as the inverter used. This can be a guide towards your prediction.

Yes you can just do a few wiring changes and have 2 sets of surge arresters and with it the isolator for each string with the CORRECT fuses for you new panels.

Your question - normally not much can be done if the cable are close to the same length. From your results of charge the newest battery should have the lowest resistance as being never and should charge at a higher rate. Secondly the same battery is at the lowest SOC and is another reason for it to charge faster. As they charge they would top out being fully charged even if the lengths are not the same. a difference of 156 to 221W between the different batteries is of no concern. Just because you can measure the difference no need to worry. I have different sets where at times one can see values like 1.2A, 1.8A, 7A and 11A at times. The same happens during discharge. Batteries are all different makes and ages can be different by over 4 years I guess. The 7A charging battery I am the 3rd owner. No idea of age or cycles but still working very well. The 11A battery is a 12V drop in Hubble doing very well after 3.5 years.

This is not really a brand thing but the actual chemistry. This chemistry is still used in E V quite a lot. No need to be paranoid but keep them working within their design limits. At the time you bought this chemistry was still the go to battery for laptops. There are many millions in use and not a lot catching fire 😀

From the top Over voltage protection Guess short circuit protection Over current protection Under voltage protection I am just repeating what has been mentioned. These codes are what are used by a lot of solar charge controllers that can support lithium batteries as one needs to load your own settings for the batteries used. Just Google and download this manual and you will find what the letters mean. The picture with the green text on a black background.

Most sellers you would pay this price only for the cells. Not easy to buy a case and BMS and do it cheaper from what I have seen. R1528 per kWh is cheap.

Energytechstore.co.za Their price do not seem to be expensive as mentioned.

Without a fixed charge I will get through this month with less than R80 for grid use. Last month it was just over R100. I only have 3kWpv. Happy to see more production than use even on a bad PV day like today. It would make no financial sense to add more battery power even if I have a few hours of wasted PV.