Coulomb

Oh I know.
I mean that You got 123V in panels but Coulomb up starting MPPT voltage  to 150-200V.
So I think start MPPT will never happen in this situation.
Am I wrong?

These are patched firmwares version 260.06, 560.06, and 160.06, based on factory firmware version 60.06 for the Axpert VM III Twin 6kW, 4kW, and 1.5kW, and the Axpert VM IV Twin 6kW, 4kW and 1.5kW. These patches implement most of Georg's MPPT "stuck at 90V" patches (here it would be "stuck at 60 V"), and fix the premature float bug. The only parts not applied are for the forward current constant, which doesn't seem to be changed based on solar voltage in any VM firmwares. The version number should display in full when using monitoring software, but will still show as 60.06 on the front panel display. Do not use with any other models, not even older VM III and VM IV models with power ratings like 5 kW or 3 kW, or non-twin models. Use at your own risk.
In the reflash tool, you may have to navigate to the folder with the patched files the first time it is run. Choose the hex file with the voltage you want, 200V, 150V or 100V. Use 200 V if your PV panels are nearly always well above 200 V. Otherwise, use the 150 V version if your panels are almost always above 150 V. Use the 100 V version if your panels are particularly low in voltage.
You can also of course choose the original factory firmware.
Firmware upload instructions.
 
dsp_x60.06_patched_200V_150V_100V.zip

Already mentioned in my first post describing the PV stuck issue in details..
 

These are patched firmwares version 260.06 and 560.06, based on factory firmware version 60.06 for the Axpert VM III Twin 6kW, 4kW, and 1.5kW, and the Axpert VM IV Twin 6kW, 4kW and 1.5kW. These patches implement most of Georg's MPPT "stuck at 90V" patches (here it would be "stuck at 60 V"), and fix the premature float bug. The only parts not applied are for the forward current constant, which doesn't seem to be changed based on solar voltage in any VM firmwares. The version number should display in full when using monitoring software, but will still show as 60.06 on the front panel display. Do not use with any other models, not even older VM III and VM IV models with power ratings like 5 kW or 3 kW, or non-twin models. Use at your own risk.
In the reflash tool, you may have to navigate to the folder with the patched files the first time it is run. Choose the hex file with the voltage you want, 200V or 150V. Use 200 V unless your PV panels are particularly low voltage. You can also of course choose the original factory firmware.
Firmware upload instructions.
NOTE: If you have particularly low panel voltage, you likely need a lower voltage version of the patch; see this post below.
dsp_x60.06_patched_200V_150V.zip

It's good that you attached the photos, because...
I think you meant 60.05. I don't have any VM IV firmware, but I do have a VM III firmware dated 26/May/2023, and no later versions. So I'd say you have the latest version that is readily available, and that VM III and VM IV do indeed come with the same main firmware, just different display software.
Alas, I have no 39.xx display firmware at all.
Huh, a new low, so to speak. It should be pretty easy to change that minimum to say 200 V.
Edit: But it will only be useful to you if you're prepared to reflash with patched main firmware that was written for the Axpert VM III Twin (1500/4000/6000 W).

Hello everyone, i just want to thank you for this topic, my inverter also have this issue and despite it is brandes like PowMR (Model 5KW III) , this version (41.17) works fine and fixes the fan problem.

After a long fight with EASUN costumer service, i managed to get the 2 firmwares for IGRID SV IV 5.6K (parallel function).
For what ever reason, flashing DSP (U1: 54.04) worked flowlessly, even with the Inverter "bricked" with error 32. (charged battery connected, switch on, like the manual recommend).
Display firmware, (U2: 8035), also worked
So now my inverter works again, except that i have lost WIFI function in the process... so it seems that i have to change remote card anyway...But its another story...
If you have IGRID SV IV 5.6K parallel, (mine is from DEC 21 in the sticker),  and you have no success with the firmwares shared on this forum or from voltronic FTP, i am sharing the 2 files given by EASUN.
cheers,
3570-02S2 Upgrade_2809_DSP INFINI V IV 5.6K 54.04.zip

May be I own a clone one and its using stgw80h65dfb. But i have watched many videos and forum , they are using it . I think irgp4066 has been obsolete and no longer manufactured. Others may confirm usage of 80h65 in their inverter (genuine)

You can install any of the patched firmware that is for the Axpert E 8 kW and the '28066 processor; at present, that's 92.06, 292.04, 392.04, and 272.66.
272.66 is based on the most recent factory firmware, but it only changes the two current compare statements. Present "best practice" seems to be to make a few more changes. So you may be better off with 92.06, unless you have a particularly high PV voltage, where 392.04 may be better (300 V minimum MPPT).
Just search for the appropriate numbers in this forum. I suggest that you start with 272.66.

@Peter Sam, I can confirm that the attached zip file contains main firmware for Axpert Max 1 7.2kW version 90.19, patched to avoid fault code 90, and with Georg's patches to avoid the worst of the "stuck at 90V" MPPT problem, with 120 V minimum MPPT voltage.
Assuming that you have a '2809 processor (probably with original firmware version 45.xx), this will solve your problem.
The fault code 90 is a brutal way to punish owners who buy cheap clones that use illegal copies of Voltronics' firmware, but it also catches out some legitimate Voltronic owners, who have an EEPROM glitch, or some other glitch. It only shows up after 60 days of runtime.
Edit: I'm not aware of any 7.2 kW models with the newer '28066 processor, but if you do happen to have one, then the new firmware will refuse to load, but you should not brick your inverter.

можешь выслать мне прошивку, спасибо большое
[email protected]
 
Ой, не отправляй. у меня есть эта прошивка
MAXII_8K_81.07.rar

I do have one 09.xx firmware, version 09.24, but it's for an Aerox model. They have slightly different power ratings. I note that this is a Freescale firmware, unlike most VM models, which usually have a TI '28062 processor. This 09.24 firmware is for 1200 W (12V), 2200 W, and 3200 W models. So it turns out that you can't use any 5 kVA firmware for this model, sorry.

Aaaand the winner is @Coulomb
The upgrade to 76.03 did the trick, the inverters are connected and works in parallel, no more voltage difference on the display.
Thanks man, you saved the whole week, not just the day!

272.66 fixes the premature float bug. In some cases, this might be reason  enough to choose it all by itself.
The only other change is that the threshold to skip the "race to the bottom" code (which leads to being stuck at 90 V on the panels) is reduced from 0.50 A to 0.05 A. This is usually enough to provide a noticeable improvement in PV production, especially in cloudy or rainy weather when you really could use every joule of energy you can get.
In all my patched firmware update files, there is a .txt or more recently a .asm file that has comments on what it changes. As an example, dsp_272.66_patched_05.asm starts with:
Edit: As for which one is "better", it's a user preference. The patched files are all amateur experiments, but sadly, they tend to perform better than the factory firmware.

No, only 0.1 V difference and even that only some of the time is as good as it gets. One firmware that I looked at seems to have a threshold of 4.0 V (in a 48 V system), and 6.0 V if the other machine is in a different mode (battery versus line mode for example). So it seems to me that only the most gross battery voltage differences should trigger fault code 83, and in fact I suspect that in practice it means that the firmwares disagree about the interpretation of can message formats. So the two machines are comparing completely different things, resulting in what appears to be more than 4.0 V discrepancy in battery voltage readings.
Of course, iGrid models are on-grid models, and I'm only familiar with off-grid firmware, so I might be way off base. I find that I do have Infini V IV firmware version 76.03, which might be close enough; use at your own risk, I don't recall where I found it:
4564-00H7 FW upgrade_28335_DSP INFINI V IV 5.6K 76.03.7z
I also have 56.00, which might match 76.01 better than 56.05 matches 76.03:
INFINIVIV5.6KReflash5600.rar

As per Sunsynk advice.
We moved the EMI filter from under the hob. Sunsynk specified that the filter is specked for the 5KW inverter and should be between the inverter and grid port, this then will not have any current draw through this filter to go to hob.
If not done, I would have to buy a 30+A filter if it remained under hob.
Thankfully, Hob now works well.

The maximum charge current is per inverter, so you can have different settings on each. It looks like one inverter is set to 40 A. Maximum total charge current is the sum of all inverter maximum charge current settings.
The other possibility is battery voltage calibration. If one inverter is way off, it might think that the battery is full, and limit charging for that reason. Check the battery voltage readings when there is little load and little charging.

Feedback on the attempt to update my TheSunPays 4KW inverter using the recources that @Coulomb Suggested.
I disconnected my inverter from the Grid, output load and solar therefore only running on battery. Connected the inverter with the RS232 cable, started up the Reflash tool, selected the approriate COM port and clicked update, I heard a click from the inverter, after about 2 /3 mins the reflash tool reported a connect failed.
The inverter was non responsive from the front panel, after a complete powerdown and start up, it was back to working. I tried a few different com ports (1/2/7) with the same result. I am guessing this failure is due to there being no bootloader as Coulomb suggested.

That is all

I note that you will have to rewire your PV panels as well. The King (if it's not a King II) will be a low PV voltage model; I assume that all the Sunsynk models are high PV voltage models.
But you probably already know that, and just didn't mention it.

I note that in the bottom photo, the battery modules are not paralleled properly. The leftmost module will do most of the work, and get most of the charge current, while the others have a siesta.
Don't copy this practice!

SolarPower is free and a CD should have come with the inverter (though the CD is always woefully out of date).
You can download it from https://www.mppsolar.com/v3/download/, expand Monitoring Software, and look for WatchPower. You need a PC (Windows, Mac, Linux), a suitable USB to RS-232 adapter, and the D9 to RJ-45 cable that should also have come with your inverter.
There is also a free monitoring program for Windows: http://www.multisibcontrol.net/
Most of the others require a Raspberry Pi or similar, and most are proprietary.

You can install any of the patched firmware that is for the Axpert E 8 kW and the '28066 processor; at present, that's 92.06, 292.04, 392.04, and 272.66.
272.66 is based on the most recent factory firmware, but it only changes the two current compare statements. Present "best practice" seems to be to make a few more changes. So you may be better off with 92.06, unless you have a particularly high PV voltage, where 392.04 may be better (300 V minimum MPPT).
Just search for the appropriate numbers in this forum. I suggest that you start with 272.66.

The MPPTs will be totally independent, so as far as I know there is no requirement or advantage to "balancing" them. The whole idea of multiple MPPTs is to handle arrays with different light levels and therefore different power throughput. 
Many people run with panels on one MPPT and none on the other with no problem. That's the ultimate unbalance. 

Definitely not. Paralleling these inverters requires the same battery (all battery modules in parallel), and identical firmware on each. This is simply not possible with the different models.
I guess what you could try is connecting the 11 kW inverter's output to the AC inputs of the other two. So the other two will power the house (to a maximum of 10 kW), then when that battery runs low, it will switch to AC-in, which will be the 11 kW inverter. You can then run the house to a maximum of 11 kW.
Really, the 11 kW inverter doesn't do much, apart from charging half the total battery.
The other thing is to put some loads (perhaps the larger loads) on the 11 kW inverter, while still connecting the AC-out of it to the AC-in of the 5 kW inverters. Then you can run a higher total load, but when the battery for the 2 5 kW inverters runs out, then the 11 kW inverter will be the limit. Having to be aware of this difference could be a problem.
Finally, you could simply split the loads and not connect the two systems in any way. That way, you don't have to worry about overloading the 11 kW inverter with loads from the other inverters, but you could have capacity in one battery when the other is empty. Maybe you could have a changeover switch for any really essential loads, so if one battery goes flat when the other has charge, you can at least switch over those very essential loads to the battery that has charge.
To make a true 22 kW system, you would indeed have to sell the two 5 kW inverters, get another 11 kW inverter exactly the same as the existing one, set up the paralleling boards (the ones you have now should work). You may have to rewire your panels. But in addition, you also have to parallel all your battery modules. So you'd need a decent pair of bus bars for that. You'd be paralleling new modules with older modules, which is always tricky. At the very least, get both battery banks to the same SoC (preferably 100% SoC) before paralleling. Otherwise, you'll have no end of problems with balancing. If the older Pylontechs aren't too old (say 2 years or so), then this should work OK, as far as I know. I think you need some extra hardware to parallel more than 8 Pylontech battery modules; I have no knowledge of that.
Edit: BTW, 22 kW at 230 V is 96 A, so you'll need some serious AC wiring to make that safe, possibly more than 16 mm². But I suspect you won't need that much power all at once.
Edit 2: Another possibility, if 11 kW is enough. Still parallel all the battery modules, but only use the 5 kW inverters as solar battery chargers. They could also be a backup in case the 11 kW inverter has a problem. You could leave them paralleled, but turn the load switches off to save idle consumption. (The switches are really load (AC-out) switches, not total power switches). The inverters should turn themselves off at night, and power up in the morning. If needed, change the load from the 11 kW to the two 5 kW inverters and turn the latter on.

Definitely not. Paralleling these inverters requires the same battery (all battery modules in parallel), and identical firmware on each. This is simply not possible with the different models.
I guess what you could try is connecting the 11 kW inverter's output to the AC inputs of the other two. So the other two will power the house (to a maximum of 10 kW), then when that battery runs low, it will switch to AC-in, which will be the 11 kW inverter. You can then run the house to a maximum of 11 kW.
Really, the 11 kW inverter doesn't do much, apart from charging half the total battery.
The other thing is to put some loads (perhaps the larger loads) on the 11 kW inverter, while still connecting the AC-out of it to the AC-in of the 5 kW inverters. Then you can run a higher total load, but when the battery for the 2 5 kW inverters runs out, then the 11 kW inverter will be the limit. Having to be aware of this difference could be a problem.
Finally, you could simply split the loads and not connect the two systems in any way. That way, you don't have to worry about overloading the 11 kW inverter with loads from the other inverters, but you could have capacity in one battery when the other is empty. Maybe you could have a changeover switch for any really essential loads, so if one battery goes flat when the other has charge, you can at least switch over those very essential loads to the battery that has charge.
To make a true 22 kW system, you would indeed have to sell the two 5 kW inverters, get another 11 kW inverter exactly the same as the existing one, set up the paralleling boards (the ones you have now should work). You may have to rewire your panels. But in addition, you also have to parallel all your battery modules. So you'd need a decent pair of bus bars for that. You'd be paralleling new modules with older modules, which is always tricky. At the very least, get both battery banks to the same SoC (preferably 100% SoC) before paralleling. Otherwise, you'll have no end of problems with balancing. If the older Pylontechs aren't too old (say 2 years or so), then this should work OK, as far as I know. I think you need some extra hardware to parallel more than 8 Pylontech battery modules; I have no knowledge of that.
Edit: BTW, 22 kW at 230 V is 96 A, so you'll need some serious AC wiring to make that safe, possibly more than 16 mm². But I suspect you won't need that much power all at once.
Edit 2: Another possibility, if 11 kW is enough. Still parallel all the battery modules, but only use the 5 kW inverters as solar battery chargers. They could also be a backup in case the 11 kW inverter has a problem. You could leave them paralleled, but turn the load switches off to save idle consumption. (The switches are really load (AC-out) switches, not total power switches). The inverters should turn themselves off at night, and power up in the morning. If needed, change the load from the 11 kW to the two 5 kW inverters and turn the latter on.