Thunderdolt

Asking for a friend. 😉 Does anyone know if these are slow or fast blow? 🤣

You are absolutely correct! Maybe I should have said "Anywhere before the point of entry to the MCB." or words to that effect.

That needs to be sorted. The CT coil needs to be at the point of entry to your DB.

Back in the day we had to install Constant Voltage Transformers, in certain computer installations, that were transformer based, large, heavy and expensive. A quick web search only came up with this. Give them a call, I'm sure someone will help you. https://www.phdpowerhouse.co.za

Your metal tiles are most likely Harveytile. They market a bracket for mounting solar panels to their tiles, and since they have documentation describing fixing their product to existing thatch maybe contacting them or one of their approved installers will give you the right answer.

Would this be compatible? https://henractech.co.za/shop/smart-switch-double-adaptor-sa-3pin16a/

Today I am a VISITOR to my inverter and not a Manager. LOL Sunsynk have admitted it is a migration issue.

This is for slate roof but will probably do what you need. https://www.solarwaysuppliers.co.za/product/slate-roof-bracket-2/ Complete kit!

I would trust your cheap meter reading. See what it measures on your battery.Perhaps one of your connections to the inverter is loose or high resistance for some reason? Or your inverter has an internal issue?

At the bottom of the display, is that a time or a date? If it's 11:08pm then I would expect no PV. Maybe the inverter has some intelligence and switches off the MPPT if it thinks the sun is on the other side of the globe.(or hiding somewhere if the earth is flat😀)

Only Whatsapp contact........🙈 Price looks to good to be true.........😱 Buyer beware.

Sounds to me that your issue is not due to the inverter switching to UPS mode then! The place I would start to fault find is in the controller itself. What is blowing? That will hopefully point to the cause. I set up a air mattress for a quadraplegic with a controller which was to mitigate pressure sores from developing. I was not impressed by the quality of the equipment, especially for the cost of it.

Did the issue arise immediately after installing the new battery or later? It's not quite clear in the original post.

I am not an electrician so what I say may be total rubbish! There is a total difference between manually switching off the isolator and an Eishkom power failure. Switching the isolator breaks the circuit whereas a power failure still has the complete circuit to the local transformer in place. Maybe an electrician can weigh in as to what in a circuit can cause issues, e.g. capacitance.? Or maybe the inverter detects the unpowered circuit as a short circuit?

Do away with 12v psu. 220v fan: https://www.geewiz.co.za/case-fan/194675-ultralan-cabinet-cooling-fan-with-power-cord.html

Did this ever work? Your wiring looks incorrect to me, but being unfamiliar with this product I may be wrong.

Thanks for the offer but I am about 600Kms from you. 😀

Did you solve the problem? If so, how? A neighbour has a similar problem since installing panels on his Growatt ES5000 but it shuts the inverter down rather than tripping the EL.

Seems you got something like this with your dimensions https://www.jasolar.com/uploadfile/2020/0619/20200619040220997.pdf

To see if it is the oven and not something else on that circuit, leave the breaker on but switch off the isolator which should be within arms reach of the oven. Also, most ovens have a timer function to switch the oven on and or off at preset times. Perhaps you have one that is faulty and does it's own thing, but why only at night?? Could be temperature related. Just my thoughts

No space, it is an 8 way box, so 2 sets of MCB +SPD fill it. What I am thinking of doing is removing the string2 components as right now I am not using it and then I will have room for the 2 fuses. And then make up a second box when required. Anyone know where I can source these online.?

Yes and yes.

@BritishRacingGreen Thanks for this. But refering to TaliaB's diagram and explanation why it is the SPD(s) that needs protection against a short, how would one know the fuse has blown ?

The very expensive combiner I have (2in_2out) has on each line 1 x MCB(63A) and 1 x SPD (pos + neg) for each string. No fuses. Both SPD outlets are joined in the box to a single earth output. Sorry for confusing everyone including myself by comparing it to the op.

My SPDs are a 2 pole in, pos and neg and only have only one usable contact to earth! That's why I am asking if a single fuse inline with the single earth wire will suffice.