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Calvin

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Everything posted by Calvin

  1. Your inverter has max VOC of 145V, the panels have a max VOC of 40.8V - perfectly safe to put 3 panels in series. Simply make 2 strings of 3 panels, one facing East and one facing West. Connect (preferably via combiner box) to Inverter. QED.
  2. The Powecube H2 he has bought is specifically designed as a High Voltage System and comes with an external BMS to balance the individual batteries. This is clearly stated in his post above.
  3. The actual panel inclination is needed. The legend is at the top: 0/35 means North, panel inclination 35 degrees, 45 means NE, 90 means East
  4. Assuming 35 degree roof angle and Cape Town: Yield on 1 July Yield on 1 Jan: Essentially, in summer not much difference. in winter the East facing panels (red line) do very poorly. The actual numbers change a lot with different roof angles and locations, but you get the general idea. If you supply your location and angle I can rerun the graphs.
  5. You are safe - these inverters are not grid-tied, which means that they cannot export power to the grid. They can take power from the grid (or a generator)
  6. I have a Hubble and a King and a RIOT, and I must say the total is extremely disappointing. Despite videos from Hubble posted a year ago about features to control the King's setting "coming soon" there is nothing. Most of the RIOT's data screens are blank. Pretty useless. I have read here that Solar Assistant (if memory serves) works well.
  7. Is there a specific reason to look at 3-phase? If you can avoid it do so - your inverter can presumably handle only 4kW per phase, which means you could be tripping on one phase whilst only using half of your capacity. I converted my house to single phase when going solar, and bought a single-phase to 3 phase inverter drive to run my 3 phase pump. Agree with @P1000 - your proposed system is very small for what you want. You will absolutely need a generator or at least a single phase 60A ESKOM prepaid line to charge the batteries to see you through the cloudy days.
  8. Those are my panels, and the reading do indeed correlate.
  9. You can certainly do what you propose. I run my Kings each with 12 x 365W Canadian Solar panels configured as 2S6P without a problem.
  10. I think that your issue is that the inverter is in line mode when it should not be - the voltage is above 51V and yet ICC shows Utility (grid) mode. Now the question is: is the mode controlled by ICC, or simply reported by ICC. I am afraid that I do not know ICC well enough to answer that question. Perhaps you can try their support, or post the question here asking for ICC help.
  11. Hi @Coulomb, I almost never run my Kings in Line mode (I disconnect the utility with a contactor except when SOC is too low) so I have not got much experience. Today I did an experiment and left the utility connected. What I saw is very strange. When in line mode (with setting 16 on SLB/UDC), the line mode will supply all output, and solar (if any) will only be used to charge the batteries. If there is more PV available than can be sent to the batteries the SCC with reduce it's output to match - it will not use the excess to reduce the grid consumption. The logic seems to be: use utility only to run the loads, use PV only to charge the battery. This behaviour is consistent with the problem that @Etiennet has seen. it makes no sense at all, but then Voltronic's programmers are not famous for their logic. The workaround seems to be to get out of line mode whenever possible - I still do not know what @Etiennet uses for setting 13.
  12. Looking at your last post, the inverter is in Utility (Grid) mode and the battery is almost full. So, there is nowhere for any PV to go to. What are your ToUtil and ToBattery settings (12 & 13)? Or is ICC somehow switching it to grid mode?
  13. I bought one for a holiday house as a anti-loadshedding UPS (together with an Axpert King), mainly based on some of the almost religious loyalty some members here were showing. My experience is similar to yours - weird behaviours with SOC (mine simply ticks down over time when the battery voltage stays at full charge with no load) and no support from Hubble (with their quality issues I guess their support desk must be extremely busy). The BMS and their cloudlink seem to be very primitive and buggy. One can only hope that they fix it before they go bust.
  14. Good articles, but I suspect that they will not convince. The data was after all not gathered on his cells in his home... The attitude displayed in some of the posts here reminds me of an old saying: "My mind is made up, don't confuse me with facts"
  15. BTW given the identical box and voltages to the AM2, it is very likely that they are also 13 cell NMC rather than 15 or 16 cell LiFePo4 batteries.
  16. Nice looking battery - suspiciously similar to Hubble AM2 (see images below) However, the spec sheet seems a bit amateurish: they state elevation > 4000m. Presumably they mean < 4000m. Is the enclosure really aluminium? Looks very much like a no-name here-today-gone-tomorrow setup. No footprint on Google, no address or company details on the spec sheet. Who will you contact in 9 years for a warranty issue? I would steer clear. From Hubble AM2 manual: From EVO manual:
  17. Something is not right here - the 2 batteries are showing very different voltages despite (presumably) being connected in parallel. Assuming the voltages are real it is unsurprising the the higher voltage battery is supplying all the load. Not that I really understand Hubble AM2 voltages - mine is currently showing 53.7V and 70% SOC and "charging" at 0A.
  18. I have 2 installations: one as an off-grid with 8 US3000 Pylontechs in daily cycle use, and one as a UPS for load shedding using Hubble AM2 at a holiday house. I am very happy with the Pylontechs - no issues at all in just over 2 years. The batteries are well engineered and (despite the evidence-free concerns raised by some) have really good BMS hardware and software. My only issue is the annoying "stuck-at-89% SOC" feature. I bought the Hubble for the UPS as it does not see daily cycles so the shorter cycle life of the Hubble's NMC chemistry is not an issue. (Before Hubble removed the cycle counter from the RIOT the battery had only done 2 cycles in about 2 months) There are of course no guarantees, but I think that Pylontech is more likely to be around in 10 years from now than any of the local brands. That is my biggest concern with Hubble - my dealings with them so far has not inspired me with great confidence that they will survive for long.
  19. Truth be told, I also think it is unlikely, but it is possible. The fact that he has a class B geyser plus an insulating blanket plus pipe insulation plus it is mounted in a cupboard plus it is summer now means that the standing losses will be very low. It all depends on the geyser's setpoint and hot water consumption. We don't know what the setpoint on the geyser is, we don't know how many showers per day, and for how long, we don't know if he uses hot water for dishes - perhaps he has a dishwasher.
  20. I think the issue is more "at what voltage do you keep the batteries once charging is complete" than "is it OK to float LI batteries" - floating implies that it is a a lower voltage than the initial (bulk/absorb) charge. With lead acid that is necessary - with LFP it is not. One thing that everybody seem to agree on is that it is bad to store LFP cells at high voltages and high temperature. One of the worst things that you can do is charge your LFP batteries very quickly and then leave them hot and full for the rest of the day Fast charging produces far more heat in the cells than slow charging does - the security of having you batteries full by 11am comes at quite a cost.... So, I think the answer is that you should keep them at the lowest voltage that keeps them at a SOC that is acceptable to you. My Pylons (US3000B on firmware 2.8) need to be charged to about 53V in order to reset the SOC counter to 100%, but I do not keep them there - after 60 seconds at 100% I set the charge voltage down to 50.5V. That causes the batteries to quickly discharge to about 99.5% which is where they stay whilst there is sufficient sun. Once a week I give them an additional 10 minutes at 100% for more complete balancing. (theses voltages are for Pylons which have 15 cells)
  21. The actual losses will vary a lot, mainly on temperature differential. Clearly the difference between the geyser's setpoint and the ambient temperature is key. The other major variable is the environment- a draughty ceiling space may result in forced convection, whilst a cupboard will have only natural convection. Having a geyser installed in a cupboard is ideal (from this perspective anyway) - essentially a small space that will quickly become warm. ΔT could be as low as 15-20˚C, natural convection only. Contrast that with a geyser with a high setpoint in a draughty ceiling space in mid winter - ΔT could be 50˚C or more plus forced convection. So, bottom line: standing losses (averaged daily) could probably vary from 20 to 200W, or about 0.5 to 5 kWh/day. Given @Gnome,s circumstance his 37kWh/month is very possible.
  22. I have 3 Kings in parallel and have similar issues in the past. In my case it was related to heat. The SCC has a control loop that derates its output when the SCC temperature gets to 87C. Now that sounds a lot, but when you have high inverter output AND high PV that is quite easily reached. You can read the relevant SCC temperature by using the Q1 command. The SCC temperature is in ASCII in bytes 22-24 of the reply. I resolved the problem by: a. reversing the fans in the inverter. The default setup blows the hot air out the bottom, from where it rises and gets sucked in at the inlets again. Not Voltronics's finest engineering.... b. improving ventilation in my inverter room to reduce ambient temperature. One disclaimer: this was all on earlier versions (71.8x) of main firmware. Things may have changed with later firmware, although this code may live in the SCC which has not been updated.
  23. I don't know if this applies to all manufacturers, but my Pylons (US3000B batteries on firmware 2.8) use Equivalent Full Cycle as a cycle. That mean that for a 74Ah battery like the US3000 the cycle count is incremented by one for every 74Ah of discharge. Even when the battery capacity (SOH) decreases with age they still use the full original capacity as a cycle.
  24. I don't know about the Hubble, but the Pylons use Equivalent Full Cycle as a cycle. That mean that for a 74Ah battery like the US3000 the cycle count is incremented by one for every 74Ah of discharge. This is clearly the most conservative and most consumer friendly way of calculating it. Whether Hubble uses this I do not know. I suspect that they do - anything else would be arbitrary.
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