TheRoDent

I would recommend converting to Solar-assistant.io, I left ICC behind a few years ago. The software is amazing. You can probably run on the same Pi you already have. I don't work for, or am related to SolarAssistant in any way. Just my personal experience.

If you're using Solar Assistant, then set "Max grid charge current" or "Max generator charge current" (depending on how your generator is wired into the inverter) to something like 60A. (Configuration->Inverter Settings->Battery Charging) 40A is a default I think, and 40A at 48V is around 1900Watts which is what's limiting your battery charging. I had the same issue, and had to bump those values to get the maximum charge going into the batteries.

I wonder what the new "MPPT Multi-Point Scanning" under Advanced->Others menu does? Edit: From the Dye Manuals

Rate Power：8.0 kW SW Ver.：M 6.0.2.6 / S 1.7.2.4 / C E.4.3.8 Nothing in particular to report. All went smoothly.

Great guide @system32 Upgraded my devices to beta, and 64bit. Thank you for this. SSH access is a win!

Did you enable the "Discovery" checkbox as per the manual ?

As a US3000C owner, I hope this post is useful to others. How to upgrade US2000C, or US3000C firmware, the easy way. This firmware included here is for US2000C and US3000C only. To summarize: If you want to upgrade your US3000C firmware safely, and easily, use the tool posted here below. It takes care of both versions of hardware, and is basically just a trimmed down version of the Batteryview tool, that can only do firmware upgrades. Download the tool, select the "NT1.7+ST2.8.zip" file (included in the main zip file), Connect, and hit "Program". https://www.effekta.com/download/firmwareupdate-for-us2000c-3000c/ And in case the original Zip File at Effekta.com disappears, here's a google drive link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hzO0NFP4GA_Q-YSCV__G4R4CiAzwpEpR/view?usp=sharing

I can highly recommend SolarAsssistant. I was an ICC user before, and the two products are chalk and cheese.

Whilst it would be great to get this going, as a home-brew, I just took the plunge and installed @SolarAssistant on a Raspberry Pi, with a USB-RS232 adapter. Simplest, easiest integration I've ever done, and solarassistant.io is superbly slick. Well done. I now have a useless Sunsynk Data Logger, which I shall attempt to brick at my own leisure using ESPHome.

So the "Sunsynk Data Logger" is basically this product from e-linter ? inteless.com, minus the RJ45/Ethernet http://e-linter.com/smart-energy/goldfinch https://doc.inteless.com/page/p/goldfinch/manual/db9/index.html According to the documentation, the comms between the inverter and the Data Logger is RS-232. I'm not entirely sure what protocol the RS-232 port on the Sunsynk inverter presents, but I'm going to guess it's probably ModBUS over RS-232. If someone can find a binary blob for the firmware of the dongle, I can probably take a stab at reverse-engineering it. Solarassistant.io seems to be capable of supporting it over RS-232 directly. Edit: Seems like this document in this thread confirms that it's modbus over RS-232 at 9600bps. The cloud API stuff seems like a pretty closed ecosystem, other than the interesting API information that @frankie has posted earlier. At worst, using those API's might be the best way to get the data logger into Home-Assistant, but I'd prefer something that doesn't depend on inteless's cloud API. @frankie did you sniff the application traffic on a phone to get a hold of the API calls ? If so, nicely done. The image that @Sc00bs posted suggest that on the top right hand there are pads for T/R/G which I would assume is the ESP TTL Transmit/Receive/Ground, so in theory those could be used to flash it. The device's web interface itself doesn't offer more than upgrading software or changing WiFi SSID. There doesn't appear to be any ports open other than http(80). I might just try and give it an ESPHOME image and see if it's willing to upgrade to a new custom firmware.

This worked perfectly for me too. The instructions received from Segen Solar for their unit is entirely incorrect regarding numbering of the terminals and how to connect it.

Just a question on this, seeing the laminated wood backing for the DB's and inverter etc. Is this to code? I have a very old setup in my pantry, with the council provided metres and breakers mounted on a wooden panel as well. After re-doing my DB's I was considering mounting them on a piece of wood as well, to cover the hole-in-the-wall left by the old bulky DB. Is this OK ? No issues with compliance ?

This seems logical as well. I don't see any particular reason to have to "plug in a light" into a socket, in order to not have lights and plugs mixed. It provides no protection above the normal CB? Of course, earthing for plugs are important, so I suppose that is a "general" reason for not mixing them, but if a circuit is fully earthed to the point of a plug, and then powers a light from there-on, I don't see how it would be different from having a non-earthed light circuit with a seperate CB ? Again, not an expert around wiring code, but it seems logical to be able to mix lights and plugs on a CB, as long as all the plugs are properly wired with an earth ? As for the mixing of wire-guages, it also seems sensible that if a single CB protects different guage circuits, that it has to be rated for the thinnest guage wire.

Thanks so much for confirming! This is indeed the case. Each phase is split to seperate DB's and each (non-mixed) phase only powers a certain set of CB's. Now, to add to a bit of the line of questioning (many thanks for your feedback so far). Is it OK for sub-db's hanging off the individual phases to also have an Earth leakage CB? That seems logical as well...

So, a question around this specifically, if I have two separate DB's on two seperate incoming phases (serving completely different CBs) can each DB simply have it's own Earth Leakage, or must there be a shared Earth leakage between the two incoming phases and neutral ? E.g. a three-way EL breaker (L1, L2, and N) ? In my case, I have a DB for "critical load" with an inverter setup, and another DB for "general" load, geyser, stove ETC, fed from two different CityPower phases, with a shared neutral. My split is simply two DB's one fed from each of the different Live phases, and each DB with it's own Earth leakage, and mains disconnectors. This seemed logical to me until I read GerhardK83's comment.