Halcyon

Is your BMs errror stop function ticked under battery settings? Apparently if that is on and there is a BMs error the Inverter will shut down and restart. Check that. 

The CT coil is fundamental to the correct operation of the machine, especially if you are not allowed to export power.  I would suggest you get someone to check your installation.  Here is a list of approved installers https://www.sunsynk.org/approved-installers-1

Having perused your pictures here are some initial notes on your settings:
Picture 10 - If you don't want to export power beyond your utility meter you should tick zero export on picture 10. Picture 11 - What CT coil was supplied to you?  It should be the 50ma / 100A model.  The CT ratio should be set to 2000 and not 200, otherwise the reading will be wrong.  Picture 4 - Did you installer put in an earth bond relay on the load output?  If not they should.  You then need to tick the setting "signal island mode" to ensure it operates. Picture 6 - If you dont have a specific use case for Grid peak shaving, untick that setting. Picture 4 - For safety I would make the equalisation days 0, just in case your inverter tries to equalise your lithium which will damage them.  This setting only for lead acid. Don't forget to click ok after changing any setting to ensure it saves.  

Having perused your pictures here are some initial notes on your settings:
Picture 10 - If you don't want to export power beyond your utility meter you should tick zero export on picture 10. Picture 11 - What CT coil was supplied to you?  It should be the 50ma / 100A model.  The CT ratio should be set to 2000 and not 200, otherwise the reading will be wrong.  Picture 4 - Did you installer put in an earth bond relay on the load output?  If not they should.  You then need to tick the setting "signal island mode" to ensure it operates. Picture 6 - If you dont have a specific use case for Grid peak shaving, untick that setting. Picture 4 - For safety I would make the equalisation days 0, just in case your inverter tries to equalise your lithium which will damage them.  This setting only for lead acid. Don't forget to click ok after changing any setting to ensure it saves.  

For my Sunsynk5.5 Simple Local Monitoring and Graphing Solution I use a single RPi4 2gig + 1 terabyte external HDD + Official RPi4 Power-supply.
The comms between my RPi4 and the Sunsynk 5.5 inverter is done using the Sunsynk BMS RS485 port wired to a standard (RS485 to RS232 Converter) and then to a standard (RS232 to USB converter).
This comms setup gave me the most stable and fastest/reliable way to get the data from the Sunsynk.
You can still use your Solarman or Sunsynk dongle at the same time.
Credits
Shout out again to @Bloubul7 who has an awesome post going about using nodered and Sunsynk
That was the foundation for setting up my own dashboard running on a different platform for simple visualisation.
Note: This guide is not for noobs, you need at least good understanding of how to use a raspberry pi and install and run stuff on it from the command line.

After you have completed this setup guide, both Step 1 and Step 2, you will/should end up with a good starting point for Your Own Customisable Data Dashboard for your Sunsynk.



 
STEP 1
Assumptions
You already know how to install headless OS (RASPBERRY PI OS LITE (Legacy) Buster Lite works best) on your RPi4
You already know how to make sure you have configured your RPi4 so you can access the RPi4 using your wifi/ethernet and putty shell.
If the above has you confused then this guide may not be for you.
Ok, let's dive right in.
Do a fresh Install Of RASPBERRY PI OS LITE (Legacy) Buster
Now for the fun stuff.
Do not try taking shortcuts, do each line of command on its own one by one in the order posted below
Start with the following commands on your RPi4 shell.
sudo apt update sudo apt upgrade sudo apt -y install build-essential git nano wget Easy, that's the basic essentials out the way.
Now do the following:
sudo apt install openjdk-11-jdk Now check to see that it installed correctly:
java -version That should give you an output similar to this:
openjdk version "11.0.xx"
OpenJDK Runtime Environment (...)
OpenJDK 64-Bit Server VM (build ...)
Next we download thingsboard:
wget https://github.com/thingsboard/thingsboard/releases/download/v3.3.4.1/thingsboard-3.3.4.1.deb Now we install thingsboard:
sudo dpkg -i thingsboard-3.3.4.1.deb That was sooo easy
Next we install the database system to store all the data and run thingsboard on:
# import the repository signing key:
wget --quiet -O - https://www.postgresql.org/media/keys/ACCC4CF8.asc | sudo apt-key add - Now add the repository contents to your system:
RELEASE=$(lsb_release -cs) echo "deb http://apt.postgresql.org/pub/repos/apt/ ${RELEASE}"-pgdg main | sudo tee /etc/apt/sources.list.d/pgdg.list Now install and launch the postgresql service:
sudo apt update sudo apt -y install postgresql sudo service postgresql start Once PostgreSQL is installed you may want to create a new user or set the password for the the main user.
The instructions below will help to set the password for main postgresql user:
sudo su - postgres psql \password \q Then, press “Ctrl+D” to return to main user console and connect to the database to create thingsboard DB:
psql -U postgres -d postgres -h 127.0.0.1 -W CREATE DATABASE thingsboard; \q Now type the following command to get back to your root:
exit Now we can configure thingsboard:
sudo nano /etc/thingsboard/conf/thingsboard.conf Add the following lines to the the bottom of the configuration file.
Don’t forget to replace “PUT_YOUR_POSTGRESQL_PASSWORD_HERE” with your real postgres user password you created earlier.
Here you can copy all the code in one go and paste to the configuration file:
# DB Configuration export DATABASE_TS_TYPE=sql export SPRING_JPA_DATABASE_PLATFORM=org.hibernate.dialect.PostgreSQLDialect export SPRING_DRIVER_CLASS_NAME=org.postgresql.Driver export SPRING_DATASOURCE_URL=jdbc:postgresql://localhost:5432/thingsboard export SPRING_DATASOURCE_USERNAME=postgres export SPRING_DATASOURCE_PASSWORD=PUT_YOUR_POSTGRESQL_PASSWORD_HERE # Specify partitioning size for timestamp key-value storage. Allowed values: DAYS, MONTHS, YEARS, INDEFINITE. export SQL_POSTGRES_TS_KV_PARTITIONING=MONTHS # Update ThingsBoard memory usage and restrict it to 256MB in /etc/thingsboard/conf/thingsboard.conf export JAVA_OPTS="$JAVA_OPTS -Xms256M -Xmx256M" Ctrl x then choose yes to save the settings you pasted.
Once ThingsBoard service is installed and DB configuration is updated, you can now execute the following script:
# --loadDemo option will load demo data: users, devices, assets, rules, widgets.
sudo /usr/share/thingsboard/bin/install/install.sh --loadDemo Execute the following command to start ThingsBoard:
sudo service thingsboard start Perfecto, This is so easy up till now
Now let's move on to installing Nodered the easy and correct way.
Do not try cheating and using nodered install via raspberry, this way is the better way.
To Easily Install nodered run the following:
bash <(curl -sL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/node-red/linux-installers/master/deb/update-nodejs-and-nodered) NOTE: The script will ask you a couple of questions about whether you are sure you want to proceed, and whether to install Pi-specific nodes. Say “y” (yes) to both questions.
Node-RED can be extended by installing modules to give it extra features that we will need.
We need to do that now so that it can be ready for the flows we will be using later.
Some of these may already be installed, install all anyway one by one.
If you are prompted that it already exists simply continue to the next.
Use NPM to install the following nodes one at a time:
npm install node-red-contrib-batcher npm install node-red-contrib-buffer-parser npm install node-red-contrib-cycle npm install node-red-contrib-hcl-iterate-loop npm install node-red-contrib-influxdb npm install node-red-contrib-modbus npm install node-red-contrib-moment npm install node-red-contrib-play-audio npm install node-red-contrib-queue-gate npm install node-red-contrib-simple-gate npm install node-red-node-openweathermap npm install node-red-node-pi-gpio npm install node-red-node-ping npm install node-red-node-random npm install node-red-node-serialport npm install node-red-node-smooth Great another job well done
At this point Node-RED is installed, but you still need to configure it to be automatically started on boot:
sudo systemctl enable nodered.service You can start the service manually this time, but in future it will happen automatically when your Pi starts up:
sudo systemctl start nodered.service By now everything should be ready and waiting for you to start using
You will/should now be able to open the thingsboard Web UI on your pc/laptop using the following link (Replace With Your Network IP for Your RPi):
http://YOURPILOCALIPADDRESS:8080/ Default admin login info: System Administrator username: [email protected] System Administrator password: sysadmin You will/should now also be able to open the nodered Web UI on your pc/laptop using the following link (Replace With Your Network IP for Your RPi):
http://YOURPILOCALIPADDRESS:1880 If you do not know what the network IP is then use the following command on your Pi:
ifconfig That should show similar to this.
pi@yourpihostname:~ $ ifconfig
eth0: flags=4163<UP,BROADCAST,RUNNING,MULTICAST>  mtu 1500
        inet 192.168.1.253  netmask 255.255.255.0  broadcast 192.168.120.255  - THE PART IN BOLD SHOULD BE WHERE YOUR IP SHOWS
        inet6 fe80::b44e:b3e5:8e66:fd02  prefixlen 64  scopeid 0x20<link>
        ether dc:a6:32:33:a2:82  txqueuelen 1000  (Ethernet)
        RX packets 26208  bytes 5851724 (5.5 MiB)
        RX errors 0  dropped 0  overruns 0  frame 0
        TX packets 17944  bytes 4846864 (4.6 MiB)
        TX errors 0  dropped 0 overruns 0  carrier 0  collisions 0
lo: flags=73<UP,LOOPBACK,RUNNING>  mtu 65536
        inet 127.0.0.1  netmask 255.0.0.0
        inet6 ::1  prefixlen 128  scopeid 0x10<host>
        loop  txqueuelen 1000  (Local Loopback)
        RX packets 451007  bytes 74785599 (71.3 MiB)
        RX errors 0  dropped 0  overruns 0  frame 0
        TX packets 451007  bytes 74785599 (71.3 MiB)
        TX errors 0  dropped 0 overruns 0  carrier 0  collisions 0
wlan0: flags=4163<UP,BROADCAST,RUNNING,MULTICAST>  mtu 1500
        inet 192.168.2.5  netmask 255.255.255.0  broadcast 192.168.130.255  - THE PART IN BOLD SHOULD BE WHERE YOUR IP SHOWS
        inet6 fe80::966a:72cb:c7d4:c3c2  prefixlen 64  scopeid 0x20<link>
        ether dc:a6:32:33:a2:84  txqueuelen 1000  (Ethernet)
        RX packets 13381  bytes 4282322 (4.0 MiB)
        RX errors 0  dropped 0  overruns 0  frame 0
        TX packets 193  bytes 29382 (28.6 KiB)
        TX errors 0  dropped 0 overruns 0  carrier 0  collisions 0
Coming Soon....
Setup Guide Step 2 (Adding Nodered Flows and Setting Up Your 1st Dashboard)

it will be helpful to paste screenshots of your battery settings and all time of use "system mode' settings page to troubleshoot.

Hi Duane, I had a similar thing happen on my side.  I did not notice the Installer used a battery fuse with a lower rating than what we programmed as the maximum charge and discharge current for the battery. Naturally the thing burnt out. Something to check on the possible reason you lost the fuse in the first place.

Hi, Did you select the closest and strongest access point when you scanned for networks using the logger?  You may have chosen a further away one with less strength and the logger sticks to that one.

Hi All
I am running a Sunsynk 5,5kw with Revov 10,2 KWH battery setup.  We have all seen the efficiency claims of inverter's however has anyone actually tested this?
For interest I have pasted extract of the Sunsynk spec sheet on efficiency.
Max. Efficiency 97.60% MPPT Efficiency 96.50% Euro Efficiency 99.90% I have recently installed the new Sunsynk logger and decided to analyse the results.  I have 2 months data so far.  (I have two years of data stored on the solarman cloud which I have not yet analysed)
Jan 2022
Theoretical load = Import + Discharge + (PV - (export+charge)) 
52,7 + 29,9 + (52,4 - (0,1 + 28,1)) = 106,8
Measured load = 103,7
Efficiency 103,7/106,8= 97,09%. (Pretty good and in spec)

 
Subsequently my inverter went in for repairs and they changed all the control boards to the latest versions and the results are as follows?  The results below are from my semi new machine.
Feb 2022
Theoretical load = Import + Discharge + (PV - (export+charge)) 
77,6 +46,7 + 114,1 - (2 + 51,2)) = 185,2
Measured load = 169
Efficiency 169/185 = 91,25% (Quite a bit lower than spec?????)
 

 
Anyone else willing to share their graphs to check efficiency?  Curious how the new machine seems to be less efficient? Any suggestions on a better way to calculate the overall efficiency?
  Looking forward to hearing from all the Sunsynk/Deye inverter fans

Regards

 
 

Hi Justin
I have a Susnynk 5kw and I am very happy with it.  Support is definitely on the up as it becomes more entrenched in RSA.  To simplify your life I would go with the 1 x Sunynk 8kw.  It is a very versatile inverter, much more so than the Axperts and Grow watts.  (Generator support, micro/grid tied, wind turbine inverter input, detailed time of use settings, export power control and more).  That R8k premium will be well spent when you measure your ROI over 10 years and the options you have available to expand your system.  my 10 cents!
 
Regards

Web interface sorted.  I can now remotely alter my inverter settings.
Next I want to integrate the settings into my automation flows.  This would essentially allow me to run two seperate sets of settings, Loadshedding vs No loadshedding.  The load shedding settings can be triggered by a webhook and will ensure that the battery charging is prioritized when loadshedding is active.

Okay, looks like the 10mm cable will be the best. Might get away with 15m per run.
DB1 to inverter to power inverter 15m
Inverter to DB1 for critical loads 15m
Future plan:
The inverter has a smart ouput where if there is extra solar during the day it can dump into that output. Maybe geyser and pool pump.
How would one wire this to output to the geyser and poolpump to run normally off grid during the day but if there is extra solar run it on that circuit. Or is this where the pass through power rating comes through?
This will then require the 3rd run of 15m from inverter to DB1 geyser/poolpump

My solution to the Neutral-Earth bond in the OHM 8 kW inverter.
Decided to mount the power relay inside the inverter, rather than in the DB (as suggested by @Vassen).  Appears to be working well with no voltage potential between Neutral and Earth in either grid-tied or off-grid modes.  Took the signal from the Grid input of the inverter.
This version of the Deye / SunSynk / Ingwe / OHM / Sol-Ark / etc. etc., does not have the ATS 240 pins, nor the ability to upgrade the software (not anywhere I can find that is).
This lack of obvious software support for the various models (all made by Deye apparently) is a strong indicator to opt for the SunSynk brand, as they do have an active support team and forum with a recent upgrade to the software  that addresses this very issue.  My 2 pennies worth.
Thanks to @Halcyon and @Vassen for their suggestions and input.
Keep safe

Hi, i have just installed the Inge hyprid inverter two weeks back by a company i trust. Since installation the inverter is performing well, no stress at all. On the screen i see a sign "sunsynk " displayed. My question is; is there a link between the Inge & Sunsynk? I'm asking this question because when i read the manuals of this two inverters they seem to be alike with no difference at all. The Inge appears to be a product of Spain if not mistaken. However i'm informed that the Sunsynk is amongst the best not sure about the Inge. Anyone with knowledge about the Inge as to how good or bad, can share the information.
Regards,

Hi Gerhard
My battery is a Narada which is not compatible with BMS.  Apparently the ones that work at present with BMS are Solar MD, Freedomwon, DYNESS and Pylontech.  No list of compatible batteries included in the manuals.  The suppliers should have a full list.
If you go for the Sunsynk branded version it shares a menu structure that is very close to the USA Sol-Ark version.  Sol-Ark have an excellent youtube channel that in my mind is the best source of information I have come across on how to set up the machine correctly and exploit its amazing set of features optimally. (Obviously ignore their 120v split phase power standard).  The Deye, Ohm and INGE variants have a slightly different firmware and menu structure but in principle all work the same.  I have a few recorded video demonstrations on how to use and set up for them.
Send me an e-mail and I will respond with the recommended suppliers/installers in Pta.  [email protected]
 
 
 
 

Hi Gerhard
This company in china https://www.deyeinverter.com/ manufactures the Deye inverter.  In our market we get a 5kw and 8kw variant.  In RSA you get the original Deye branded version, a Sunsynk branded version, an OHM branded version, INGE branded version and for interest in the USA they have a Sol-Ark branded version.  There might even be more.
The Deye data sheet you have come across is accurate for the specifications https://solaradvice.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/8kW-Deye-Sunsynk-Hybrid-PV-Inverter2020-Datasheet.pdf.  Was it this one?
I have a 5kw Sunsynk branded unit and I am very happy with it.  I had some installation teething problems that took a while to sort out especially over lockdown, however this is all resolved.  Unfortunately, there are a lot of inexperienced Solar/electrical installers out there who do not truly understand the correct wiring requirements for these type of hybrid inverters and even less knowledge of how to resolve things if a problem is encountered.   The installation manuals are also a little light on detail. 
You can use any type of Solar panels with this inverter.  It all comes down to the panel specification and how you wire them to stay within the inverter's range.  For example I have 15 panels of 335W each.  Each panel has a max rated current of +- 9 amp.  If you wire 6 of them in series your Volts would be +- 240 V but the max amps would not exceed 9A which is well below the 18A maximum.  You could wire two strings in parallel and you would still be within the 18A (9A + 9A) range but I will leave the technical details to the more experienced on this forum.
You are welcome to get in touch if you have questions or need further information about these inverters as I have learnt a great deal about them over the last 2 months.
 
 
 

Hi Rob
Just a question.  Why would you want a change over switch from DC to AC?  The Sunsynk has 2 x MPPT ports for the DC feed from the Solar panels and an AC grid input feed.  The device can manage the charging of the batteries automatically using either Solar power or the Grid as available.