I want to put down a full plan for a Victron grid tied install using lead acid batteries, as they are a little bit more complicated.

The idea is to give someone an overview of what all goes into a setup like this, parts needed, pictures etc.
Pylontech batteries we can handle later when we have it all down for lead acid.

@plonkster and @phil.g00 - what would you add / change?

 

Equipment:
Victron Multiplus II 48/3000 with MK3-USB cable for firmware updates.
Victron BlueSolar 150/100MPPT with VE.Direct cable to VenusGX
VenusGX
BMV-712Smart and cable for midpoint monitoring

Optional:
Carlo Gavazzi with RS485 to USB cable 5m - nice to measure all the in / out of the main DB board.
Temp sense cable for VenusGX  to see the temp of the batts - nice to see the batt temps being recorded.
Battery balancers

Solar Panels:
8 x 350w Canadian Kumax panels - 3 series and 3 in parallel = 3150w - which matches the inverter.
14 pairs of MC4 connectors
20m x 10mm2 (Red & Black) - can use 4 or 6mm, but 10mm is just the least amount of losses and the price difference is not that much.
Additional 5m (Red & Black) for odds and sods connections.

Batteries:
8 x Trojan J200RE's
Optional: Watering kit for the Trojan's. In their lifetime, the kit is a awesome time saver.

Wires needed - extra lugs as spares:
From inverter to batteries: 5m x 50mm2 (Red & Black) with 8 x 50mm/10mm lugs
From MPPT to inverter: 2m x 25mm2 (Red & Black) with 4 x 25mm/10mm lugs
Between batts: 30cm x 50mm2 (Black) with 18 x 50mm/10mm lugs

Combiner Box:
1 x DB box
3 x NoArk 63A 1000VDC 6ka double pole breaker to break all 6 wires - or 2 x 4 pole NoArks.
6 x PV Fuse Holder with LED light - on all 6 wires
10 x 20amp fuses
1 x Citel Surge Protection DC/PV Type 2 1000VDC (DS50PVS-1000)

Fuse Box 1:
1 x 125amp fuse and fuse holder - see fuse below.

Fuse Box 2:
1 x 250amp fuse and fuse holder - see fuse below.

 

 

How it all fits:

 

Personally I like these 2 pole fuses, one can be a 125a and the other a 250a:

With the DC side in a box like this - and it is regulation for a CoC - warning labels and all.
One can add the above fuse direct onto the positive busbar to connect both the MPPT and the inverter onto their respective size fuse.
Or connect the MPPT direct onto the 2nd battery poles of the inverter. Then one needs another fuse.

 

What am I missing?

On 2019/02/20 at 9:31 PM, The Terrible Triplett said:

8 x 350w Canadian Kumax panels - 3 series and 3 in parallel = 3150w - which matches the inverter.

I think you'll need 9 modules to make that work... 🙂But...

When I ordered my last batch of 335W Canadian Solar modules, I was looking at the spec sheet when I noticed that little voltage chart sags dangerously close to the 50V open-circuit side at lower temperatures. Did the math quickly and realised I am already in danger of exceeding 150V on a 3°C morning with the older 320W modules I already have. Can't really put them three in series on a 150V controller. So I will be splitting my 6 modules into 3 strings of 2. I used to say up to three is fine... I'm changing my mind. On a 150V MPPT, these 72 cell Canadian solars can't go three wide unless you go for a 250V MPPT.

Edit: (April 2019), I made a mistake in my calculation, see message lower down.

Edited April 20, 20197 yr by plonkster

14 minutes ago, plonkster said:

9 modules

Damn, typo 3 x 3 = 9

14 minutes ago, plonkster said:

Did the math quickly and realised I am already in danger of exceeding 150V ...

Recall the fiasco when I questioned Victron's Excel calcs, me saying everywhere do not oversize? 😉

 

Have 2 strings in parallel of 3 x 350w in series and I have not seen it once over 135.97v BUT we have not hit cooler weather yet.

I see on the logs that there has been a 2.7kw peak the one day coming from the 2.1kw array ... that was impressive.

Ok, according to the Excel, this could happen - installer says nope, he does not think it will ever get that high.

If I go 2 more panels, I will go 2 in series, 4 in parallel ... after upgrading the cable as it is 6mm2 and would be pushing the limits ito amps.

BUT, we are talking Cape Town. So yes, I would concur, it is safer to keep the volts lower.

DON'T oversize with Canadians. 🙂 

Any other thing you can pick up that is missing / better advice?

Edited February 20, 20197 yr by Guest

1 hour ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

If I go 2 more panels, I will go 2 in series, 4 in parallel ... after upgrading the cable as it is 6mm2 and would be pushing the limits ito amps.

If the end result of this is a quantity survey ( which I hope it is ), then I think we should be comprehensive and itemize, because the little things can cost a lot.

To do this I think we have make some assumptions about DC cable distances, I suggest say 20m from panels to combiner box, 10m from combiner box to inverter. 5m from inverter to furthest battery. Everybody's will vary, but nice round (semi-realistic) numbers are a good for indicative costs. And we can play with options once we get a handle where savings can be made.

For the time being, we shall assume our array is optimally tilted due North, shall we?

( These can all be spreadsheet variables  on a great big spreadsheet in the future).

Some thoughts about possible inclusions:

Earthing:  cabling to panel frames & from inverter ?

Tools, (that I consider PV specialized) beyond a multimeter, laptop and the normal toolbox stuff:   MC4 & Battery terminal crimper & a DC clip-on ammeter 

Panel  Mounts -  IBR & Tile options ( I'd like to learn more in this area myself).

Glands, Din Rail, battery terminals?

I'd put an MCB on the "always -on" circuits too.

Software and internet requirements, even if free.

 

 

Edited February 20, 20197 yr by phil.g00

As we build this list, we can add web links towards the end - easier to copy each time we update it.
 

Version 2: (versioning it will help to show which is the latest.)

Equipment:
Victron Multiplus II 48/3000 with MK3-USB cable (for firmware updates)
Victron BlueSolar 150/100MPPT with VE.Direct cable to VenusGX
VenusGX - ESS configured to grid tied
BMV-712 Smart with VE.Direct cable as well as cable for midpoint monitoring
VE.Direct to USB cable fir it one ever has to connect to the MPPT using VictronConnect

Optional:
Carlo Gavazzi with RS485 to USB cable 5m - nice to measure all the in / out of the main DB board.
Temp sense cable for VenusGX  to see the temp of the batts - nice to see the batt temps being recorded.
Battery balancers

Solar Panels - array optimally tilted due north:
Option 1: 8 x 350w Canadian Kumax panels - 2 series and 4 in parallel (To keep well within 150v limits)
Option 2: 10 x 350w Canadian Kumax panels - 2 series and 5 in parallel 
14 pairs of MC4 connectors
20m x 10mm2 Red & Black cable - can use 4 or 6mm, but 10mm is just the least amount of losses and the price difference is not that much
Additional 5m Red & Black cable for odds and sods connections
Panel frame mounts (IBR / Diamond Deck / Tile)

Batteries:
8 x Trojan J200RE's
Optional: Watering kit for the Trojan's. In their lifetime, the kit is a awesome time saver.

Wires needed - extra lugs as spares - assume 20m distance:
From inverter to batteries: 5m x 50mm2 red & black cable with 10 x 50mm/10mm lugs to crimp on
From MPPT to inverter: 2m x 25mm2 red & black with 8 x 25mm/10mm lugs to crimp on
Between batts: 30cm x 50mm2 black cable with 18 x 50mm/10mm lugs
22m Earthing wire: From panel frames to a earthing rod and inverter to DB board
Glands, Din Rail?

String Combiner Box:
1 x DB box
3 x NoArk 63A 1000VDC 6ka double pole breaker to break all 6 wires - or 2 x 4 pole NoArks.
6 x PV Fuse Holder with LED light - on all 6 wires
10 x 20amp fuses
1 x Citel Surge Protection DC/PV Type 2 1000VDC (DS50PVS-1000)

Fuse Box 1 - 25mm2 cable:
1 x 125amp fuse and fuse holder
2 x 125amp fuses

Fuse Box 2 - 50mm2 cable:
1 x 250amp fuse and fuse holder
2 x 250amp fuses

Ac_Out1 Always On DB Board:
Double pole breaker to switch DB off.
Earthleakage
Breakers for circuits

Tools:
1) Crimping tool - invest in the R500 - R800 jobbies to be set free
2) MC4 crimper to crimper
3) Multimeter to be able to test the volts
Optional: DC clip-on ammeter 

I would be even more specific. If you say 'breaker' do you mean MCB or Isolator? It's just for correctness.

I would also add 1 x 125A and 1 x 250A fuse as spares to keep in case one blows and then you sit in the dark on a weekend and you cannot get a replacement until Monday.

PS. If not already in the main DB, I would add a Type-II surge arrestor before the inverter but that's just me. It might just save a few $$$

Edited February 21, 20197 yr by Ingo

8 hours ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

Recall the fiasco when I questioned Victron's Excel calcs, me saying everywhere do not oversize? 😉

Oversize does not necessarily imply overvoltage. I can oversize (in terms of available watts) and still remain under the open-circuit voltage limit.

8 hours ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

installer says nope, he does not think it will ever get that high

Technically air temperature is not necessarily the same as module temperature (that thing is still baking in the sun and will have a temperature above ambient)... but in my lifetime I've seen a 0°C in my home town, and Wikipedia tells me Cape Town has had a -4°C somewhere in its history. That is to say, it's fine for your own stuff to take the chance, but if you're advising someone else, then perhaps not so much. Especially if they live near Sutherland 🙂

1 hour ago, plonkster said:

... it's fine for your own stuff to take the chance, but if you're advising someone else, then perhaps not so much.

Now THAT is an excellent point. Refer back to Victron's Excel spreadsheet.
1) Make sure one has the V and I temp coeff's loaded correctly for the panels.
2) Make sure you know the potential lowest temp you must cater for.

For if we are talking -4 °C running on the edge is going to push it over the 150v for Victron MPPT's, and blow them. Even if one uses 250v one's, same applies. 

Tell me Plonk, the Victron Excel sheet shows you when the MPPT will shave off the amp, rights, does that not put it under strain when it has to do that, over heating and all that?

 

Now this is a bit tongue in the cheek.
<<START>>
When one passionately explains why one can say i.e. oversize ones own array, and how to do it in the finest of details, it has to lead to others assuming it must be ok ... forgetting they live in say i.e. Sutherland.

We tend to forget the engineers who set the limits, because of others doing it.  🙂 
<<END>>

Over-sizing is 100% the owners own personal responsibility.

Edited February 21, 20197 yr by Guest

26 minutes ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

does that not put it under strain when it has to do that, over heating and all that?

Of course heat puts in extra strain. But that applies even below the limit, if you really want to baby the controller then by all means run it at 25% capacity or even less. I suppose one must also remember that marketing is involved, you want a number that is nice and high so people will buy the thing, but low enough that not too many will blow up in the warranty period (or some other period, depending on who you are and how much you care about reputation, eg a Toyota Land Cruiser is designed to last 20 years even if the warranty is only 5).

The thing about MPPTs is that they limit the power once they reach their limit. That is one of the nice features, that you CAN oversize. With PWM controllers you could do no such thing. It would blow up a lot faster. The MPPT will simply adjust its mark/space ratio until it gets to the max power it can handle, and then limit it there.

What I am saying is that a small bit of oversizing will work the MPPT just as hard as EXACT sizing, that is to say, 110% works the MPPT just as hard as 100%. If you say don't oversize, then you're actually advising people to undersize (there is one small exception that I will get to next). Now of course us saffers understand this angle... make it bigger than it needs to be, it will last longer. That is still true 🙂

Now to get to the one small exception: When you oversize, it is possible to get overcurrent events. This happens when insolation levels changes quickly and the MPPT might not back off fast enough. Then for a small period of time, that poor MOSFET inside is going to switch a little bit more power than the limit. But that happens for a really short period of time, and generally only when you grossly oversize the array (by which I mean 150% or more). Oversizing 110% or 120% is essentially no different from running at 100%. Of course you will just do it for a larger part of the day, so it comes down again to whether that thing is designed to run like that and still make it through the warranty period 🙂

Then comes the final bit in my argument, which is that Victron MPPTs will already back off if they get hot. Of course they still run at 95% even while piping hot, so if you don't like that... well then you have to do a reverse oversizing... make the MPPT bigger than the array. But that costs more. It's really up to you 🙂

10 hours ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

J200RE

What do these go for?

Thanks Plonkster, that is a lot of solid info. Respect.

In discussions last year with Victron Germany re. the Excel calculator and oversizing, Victron SA and a Victron dealer of 20 years experience, none recommend me to over size in SA. Europe, whole new ballgame. The local Victron dealer as a rule stays 20% below the max of the MPPT's they sell and install. In his experience, I deduced, they last longer, heat being the driving factor.

For the non-technical people, the key parts one must look at to never ever exceed is the max PV voltages and the Max PV short circuit of the controller. Exceeding either results in a no-warranty situation.

The 150/100 , or 15/35/45 etc is the max amps the controllers can charge a battery bank at.
A rule of thumb: A 150/35 is 35amps and at 10% charge rate is a 350ah battery bank.

Titbit: Learnt recently that during load shedding the Victron dealer told me they go up to +-16% of the ah of the bank to recharge faster.
Note: During load shedding times, not all the time and for lead acid batteries only.

 

53 minutes ago, plonkster said:

... make the MPPT bigger than the array.

In the end that is where I ended up after many different controllers, each time getting myself into a corner. 🙂

The proposed 150/100 here gives one so much more room to maneuver, start small then add more and more panels once you have the data / funds.

Yes one could go for the 250v ones, but I'm not sure if the extra cost is worth it if the distance does not require excessive cable costs.
The discussion above, not arguments 😉 , applies to both the 150v and the 250v ranges re. over sizing. 

 

1 minute ago, PJJ said:

What do these go for?

Have found them around at about R 5 300 incl each.

33 minutes ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

Titbit: Learnt recently that during load shedding the Victron dealer told me they go up to +-16% of the ah of the bank to recharge faster.

15% is the typical number you use for a system cycled daily. You need to get them up to 85% SoC as quickly as possible, because that is where bulk stops and absorption starts (as a rule of thumb) which means the current starts to taper off and you're at the mercy of the battery when it comes to "are we there yet!?". Some batteries allow going up to 20%, everyone should check their spec sheet. I believe even golf cart and forklift batteries allow pushing to 20%... cause time is money (much more than battery cost in those cases).

As a general rule... you want to get a lead acid battery back to 85% as quick as possible to prevent damage. Some will even advise charging with the grid to get there, and then finishing with the PV panels (ie use the grid until the end of the bulk phase).

14 hours ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

Wires needed - extra lugs as spares:
From inverter to batteries: 5m x 50mm2 (Red & Black) with 8 x 50mm/10mm lugs
From MPPT to inverter: 2m x 25mm2 (Red & Black) with 4 x 25mm/10mm lugs
Between batts: 30cm x 50mm2 (Black) with 18 x 50mm/10mm lugs

From MPPT to inverter ... you already have dc input from batteries to inverter, not sure how cabling will work from MPPT to inverter. MPPT goes to busbar and from busbar you go to inverter.

31 minutes ago, stoic said:

From MPPT to inverter ... you already have dc input from batteries to inverter, not sure how cabling will work from MPPT to inverter. 

Inside the Multiplus II and Multigrid there two DC outputs for charging two batteries, one for the main bank and a second one for a starter battery.

I have connected the MPPT direct to the 2nd battery point inside the inverter.

It is more efficient I'm told.

 

1 hour ago, plonkster said:

I believe even golf cart and forklift batteries allow pushing to 20%

My only question, I don't suppose there are any docs that state this for say Trojan?

Other than that and the fact that you will add a lot more water, I like the idea to push them quicker to 85%.

40 minutes ago, stoic said:

From MPPT to inverter ...

If you want to use different rate fuses say smaller one for MPPT cable and higher one for the battery cables, then these fuses holders are nice, and they are marine rated:

1 hour ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

Inside the Multiplus II and Multigrid there two DC outputs for charging two batteries, one for the main bank and a second one for a starter battery.

Eish. This statement isn't right. It isn't even wrong...

Yeah, there are two M8 terminals for convenience, but it has nothing to do with a starter battery. The starter battery (on a boat or in a camper van) is usually a different voltage and/or capacity too.

Things you can use the doubled-up terminals for are 1) daisy-chaining inverters in parallel, 2) connecting a solar charger, 3) doubling up on cable for more power/lower drop.

I personally don't like to wire my solar chargers to the terminals on the Multi. If you do that, and the fuse between the Multi and the batteries goes... your batteries no longer charge. Or if you charge with PV and grid at the same time, that fuse has to be rated for the combined current of PV and inverter. It feels to me like the kind of daisy-chaining that caused this disaster. Yeah I know different fields, just saying, you're making part of the current pathway handle double the work 🙂

1 hour ago, plonkster said:

Eish. This statement isn't right. It isn't even wrong...

I quote the Multiplus II manual - what did I miss? 🙂 

And the Multigrid 24v one:

 

1 hour ago, plonkster said:

I personally don't like to wire my solar chargers to the terminals on the Multi. If you do that, and the fuse between the Multi and the batteries goes... your batteries no longer charge.

I asked a Victron dealer, one I bought from, before I did it.

But I hear your concern for if the fuse between Mult and batts go, like I learnt recently, the Multi may very well continue to operate until it shuts down when the volts from the MPPT / or a large load with no batts to compensate, causing the volts to drop and the inverter switches off.

That is a good concern ... therein the double pole fuse suggestion above as you can have two different size fuses on it, one for inverter and one for MPPT.

As a matter of fact, after our chat the other week on this matter, I'm contemplating moving my fuse from the battery pole to the busbar in the DC box.

5 minutes ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

I quote the Multiplus II manual - what did I miss? 🙂 

Oh! I had completely forgotten about that small 4A supply down there (in row E)! I thought you were talking about the double M-8 terminals (F and G). My bad!

11 minutes ago, plonkster said:

I thought you were talking about the double M-8 terminals (F and G)

I am talking about F & G? 

 

NOW this picture makes sense: (I bet you many out there also missed this)
1 and 2 the main battery cables - with a 2nd set of M-8 terminals - where I connected my MPPT.
3 just the negative to the 2nd battery
4 being the connection point for the positive side of max 4amp charge ability. 

Edited February 21, 20197 yr by Guest

These diagrams do not look anything like my "MultiGrid-II-48V-3000-35-32". It only has a single set of M6 bolts for attaching the battery cables, and an M8 bolt for chassis ground. 

I made up my own "bus-bars" for combining the Battery, Inverter and MPPT connections. See an old photo of a "work in progress" which shows this 😀

Edited February 21, 20197 yr by NigelL

Wow guys I was so happy to come across this ! I have been lurking on this forum and trying to learn for the last couple months . This setup is exactly what I am wanting to do , other than battery choice that is . So far I have ordered 

Multiplus ll 3000/48/35

Venus GX

Bluesolar MPPT 150/60 (have concern here any advice would be appreciated)

I have not made up my mind on battery as yet but looking at pylon 3.5 kWh as it seems to be the best value ? 

I really cant wait to start my solar journey and thank you all for sharing your knowledge! 

1 hour ago, Mstott said:

I have not made up my mind on battery as yet but looking at pylon 3.5 kWh as it seems to be the best value ?

Pylon's are good. And you need less parts. 🙂 

1 hour ago, Mstott said:

MPPT 150/60

All depends on the size of the array, and then the panel sizes. A 150/60 is a good start.

Chaps,  you'll get bogged down in a thousand tangents, if you start going into the minutiae or possible other combos, before the broad outline has been evaluated.

I am not saying that these things shouldn't be done just that doing them pre-maturely will cause this worthy thread to lose focus.

I think this is one thread, that we need to be theme purists, as it has the potential to be so helpful to others as a reference.

So lets consider things in logical sequential component blocks, optimize the component, optimize the next block and build up to the whole.

It is clear that this component was put forward as the foundation for the system:

23 hours ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

Equipment:
Victron Multiplus II 48/3000 with MK3-USB cable for firmware updates.

That is a grid-tied ESS system is also a premise, so some form of this is a pre-requisite:

On 2019/02/20 at 7:31 PM, The Terrible Triplett said:

VenusGX

However, this could take the form of a Venus GX, a CCGX or a RPI, - lets debate the worthiness of these options?

And establish a consensus.

I think the format of this thread should build up from virtual purchase decisions, so that any future system component has to be optimized in terms of  value and previous virtual purchase decisions of our ideal setup.

This will also serve to bring this system into a real world limited budget scenario,  instead of debating the nuances of idealistic hypothetical cherry on top choices.

We'll need an arbiter to evaluate points of view and decide these virtual purchases:

As thread founder, I propose @The Terrible Triplett to be our virtual purchaser?

It must be accepted that our virtual purchaser will also be an active (biased) participant in any debate and this is welcomed.

But, just like in real life our virtual purchaser will have to make compromises, and so it is necessary create some realistic evaluation criteria.

A future reader of this thread must not just be faced with multiple optional extras, but he must be able to prioritize how much these value these extras add to the system.

I propose that we collectively decide on a virtual budget, is R150K acceptable? 180k? ...  I throw it open to the floor...

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks @phil.g00 lets reset the thread. (Lets me get into character 🙂  )

 

As virtual purchaser these are the requirements:
Note 1: Being in the city Eskom is cheaper than batteries.
Note 2: Want to bring the electricity bill down to between R600 - R800 per month:
1) Legally grid tied feeding the entire house for optimal daytime savings. Timers are set for geyser, poolpump etc. to spread the load during the day.
2) 3kva range as that is the sweet spot for the most savings, with option to expand if I need to with ease.
3) When Eskom is off I want to power a separate DB board for likes of computers, TV, DSTV, alarm, fridge, freezer and adhoc with full solar power, a microwave, kettle, induction plate.
4) Want to use J200RE's and only 20% of them for optimal lifetime unless there are failures. Will upgrade "later" to Pylontechs.
5) Want to have the option to keep batteries fully charged if there are frequent failures. User adjustable.
6) Want to be able to add panels over a one year period using the data I have gathered, not having to buy more controllers or change any wires.
7) Want to start off with 3.5kw array - to cater for winter too.
8)) System must be "plug and play and forget" setup.
9) Data must be available on my phone / web, downloadable and operating system must be Opensource.
10) If there are firmware upgrades on any device it must be user friendly and as automated is it can be.

 

The following list is what seems to fit the bill:

Version 3: (versioning it will help to show which is the latest.)

Note: Will fix this later with 10 panels ... 2 in series, 5 in parallel.

Equipment:
Victron Multiplus II 48/3000 with MK3-USB cable (for firmware updates)
Victron BlueSolar 150/100MPPT with VE.Direct cable to VenusGX - 150v and not 250v as the distance is not that long.
VenusGX - ESS configured to grid tied
BMV-712 Smart with VE.Direct cable as well as cable for midpoint monitoring
VE.Direct to USB cable fir it one ever has to connect to the MPPT using VictronConnect
Optional: Carlo Gavazzi with RS485 to USB cable 5m - nice to measure all the in / out of the main DB board.
Optional: Temp sense cable for VenusGX  to see the temp of the batts - nice to see the batt temps being recorded.
Optional: Battery balancers

Solar Panels - array optimally tilted due north - distance 20m between array and combiner box:
10 x 350w Canadian Kumax panels - 2 series and 5 in parallel (To keep well within 150v limits)
20 pairs of MC4 connectors
20m x 10mm2 Red & Black cable - 10mm due to the higher amps panels being in parallel to keep with the volts.
Panel frame mounts (IBR / Diamond Deck / Tile)
Optional: Additional 5m Red & Black cable for odds and sods connections

Batteries:
8 x Trojan J200RE's - 48v 400ah bank
Optional: Watering kit for the Trojan's. In the batts lifetime the kit will be an awesome time saver.

Wires needed - extra lugs as spares - assume 20m distance:
From inverter to batteries: 5m x 50mm2 red & black cable with 6 x 50mm/10mm lugs to crimp on
Between batts: 30cm x 50mm2 black cable with 16 x 50mm/10mm lugs
From MPPT to batteries: 5m x 25mm2 red & black with 6 x 25mm/10mm lugs to crimp on
22m Earthing wire: From panel frames to a earthing rod and from inverter to DB board

Wire Fuses needed:
One dual Marine rated fuse holder.
25mm2 cable: 2 x 125amp fuses
50mm2 cable: 2 x 250amp fuses

String Combiner Box:
1 x DB box
1 x NoArk 63A 1000VDC 6ka double pole breaker to switch panels off
2 x PV Fuse Holder with LED light - on positive and negative
4 x 20amp fuses
1 x Citel Surge Protection DC/PV Type 2 1000VDC (DS50PVS-1000)

Ac_Out1 Always On DB Board: (Breaker amps set to 20amps to limit the max amount of AC current the DB can provide, which is linked to the batteries.)
Double pole breaker to switch the DB off
Earthleakage breaker
Breakers for circuits - add as many as I want

Tools:
Crimping tool - invest in the R500 - R800 jobbies to be set free
Multimeter to be able to test the volts
Optional: MC4 crimper
Optional: DC clip-on ammeter 

Edited February 21, 20197 yr by Guest