stoic

They are selling US3000C batteries for under R10K inclding VAT.

https://solarenergy101.com/product/pylontech-3-5kwh-48v-lithium-ion-battery-us3000c/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23504890942&gbraid=0AAAAA9ZA38cICs5l6jsplDzEsl3N3iCgh&gclid=CjwKCAiAncvMBhBEEiwA9GU_fiBCbmYz-x28bPGFXb5XgANRmtZWKP0963xH6K48z14-4xPgK9pOZRoC63wQAvD_BwE


It seems a bit too good to be true.

Has anyone used them before?

UPDATE!!!!!
Seems to be a scam. ... i am gonna try and get these !@#ers removed from the internet.

Luckily i have not bought anything from them

PLEASE tell me that is a parallax problem

Dropping the price to R4k per inverter.

I know this is weird, but i can replicate it 100%

I have my VenusXG set to connect to my dashboard on the VRM portal.

Whenever i lose internet connection for approximately 15 minutes, all my Multiplus 2 intverters switches off.

I have three in parallel, all connected to my VenusGX.

Has anyone experienced it before?

Some more feedback on this Rodeo: Pylontech has accepted the warranty claim & released the original amount paid, well happy to say that this case is now closed and Pylontech have honored the warranty, I think I will have to delete my negative comments, and hope this product keeps on doing its job 🤔

I'm sure you guys are all too familiar with the fact the Eskom is load shedding, but not letting the public know that they are, so I thought I would create a post highlighting it by posting grid lost logs from my solar system for the last two months where there was "no load shedding".

It would be nice to see how your logs look during those "No Load Shedding" times.


 

I know with Victron charge controllers you can push above it and the inverter will just throttle it to the max output. 

But i suppose an expert on Mecer will be able to give you a definitive answer

worth it?
I'd say it depends on the person. financially probably not, but coolness factor.. HELL YEAH!
I mean, who would not want to say they are saving money by cycling in the morning or afternoons. Personally I think this is an awesome novel idea, just the enjoyment of doing the setup, and then seeing your cycling contributing to your power supply.
If i was a cycler i would jump on this like a rash  
 

yup..... that looks normal too me.
the sharp incline morning could be due to shadow being casted or the orientation of the panels. your panels are probably facing a little bit more west than they are supposed to.

yup..... that looks normal too me.
the sharp incline morning could be due to shadow being casted or the orientation of the panels. your panels are probably facing a little bit more west than they are supposed to.

Just a note of warning.
A couple of years ago I was involved in building a system where people can rate service as well as mark certain providers as scammers. This was short lived, as you are not allowed to shame companies in the manner one really would like to.
Talk about their poor service and the way you were treated but care with using words like "scammer".

Ask @Jaco de Jongh for a quote.

Ask @Jaco de Jongh for a quote.

Ask @Jaco de Jongh for a quote.

Active SOC is a value that is automatically set by your GX device

If battery life is enabled then each day your battery does not fully charge the Active SOC increases by 5%. Each day it gets fully charged your Active SOC decreases by 5%. If battery life is enabled then your batteries will not discharge more than your Active SOC. The above all happens cause your system is trying to get your batteries to 100%. 
If you change your Minimum SOC the active SOC increases with it, but will only decrease each time the battery is fully charged.

I accidentally pulled it open once under load, i thought the changeover switch was already flipped. it most certainly made a huge bang.
I suggest using it as it is intended to be used, as a fuse or for emergencies only (if you have no other emergency option).
 
 

@MorneDJ 
Go to Settings -> ESS 
there should be two values which is important: 
Minimum SOC
Active SOC
What are those two values?
 
If you look at your ESS Notifications it shows #1, #2
#1 = SOC Low
#2 = Battery Life enabled
 
My suspicion is that your Active SOC is very high, above 90%. Active SOC is a value that is automatically set by your GX device, if Battery life is enabled then each day your battery does not fully charged the Active SOC increases by 5%. Each day it gets fully charged your Active SOC decreases by 5%. If battery life is enabled then your batteries will not discharge more than your Active SOC. The above all happens cause your system is trying to get your batteries to 100%. 
From experience, if you change your Minimum SOC the active SOC increases with it, but will only decrease each time the battery is fully charged.

So what you're saying is to point your front-loader 45 degrees upwards 😂
 
-G-

Is the 25% not limited on the feedback side of things?

Man... I would say let sleeping dogs dogs lie. The official reason for the 25% limit is that they want to limit the "pick up". When an embedded generator trips, whatever it was powering needs to be picked up by the grid. When some anomaly on the grid (low voltage event for example) causes the entire neighbourhood's embedded generators to disconnect, the grid has to pick up all of that. So they are not at all concerned about how much is being fed in, they are concerned about the spike that results of all those feeders go away.
So while one would think you can build a system that generates 10kW, but you carefully control it so no more than 3.5kw goes into the grid... that would not be allowed, because that has a potential pick-up of 10kw... not just 3.5.
Now one would also think that if you put a 5kVA hybrid inverter (eg a Multiplus-II) on the grid, with 3.5kW of PV modules... that inverter can supply the difference from the batteries, so it could potentially push as much as 4kW from the combined DC sources, and therefore the pickup for that combo is in actual fact 4kw (and not just 3.5). But CoCT looks only at the PV modules (the PV module is the generator, not the inverter)... and so you can get it approved if the PV array or the inverter is small enough... disregarding the battery component completely.
🙂
 

60A breaker will give you close to 14kw at around 230v.... much more than the 5kw inverter can handle. Your inverter will probably switch off due to overload before you breaker will trip

You can get the raw data from dbus
Or can also download the data that is send to Vrm from the Vrm portal under advanced menu option. There is a little download icon top right hand side to download data in csv format.
Start here to get access to your Venus device  https://www.victronenergy.com/live/ccgx:root_access. Follow the links in the post.
Also once you have access use this little tool, it will  help you a lot. https://github.com/victronenergy/dbus-spy
Hope it helps, Enjoy!

So now let me get into the HF vs LF design difference.
Low Frequency designs work like this. You take your 48VDC, and you convert it to 48VAC at 50Hz (a little bit less really, there's some losses in this part). Then you feed this 50Hz low voltage into a big old conventional transformer and on the other side pops out 230VAC. The transformer needs to be big, because the time period t = 1/f is relatively long when f = 50Hz, so you need a nice big store of magnetic energy.
A high frequency design works similar, but it has an extra stage at the end. You again start with your 48VDC, and convert it to 48VAC... but at a MUCH higher frequency (typically 40Khz and above). This also doesn't have to be a sine wave. You then feed this into a transformer again, and convert it to a higher voltage, and then you rectify it back to DC, so that you end up with around 350VDC. This is the so-called high-voltage DC bus that we sometimes talk about, and there is a reason why it needs to be higher than the expected 230V.
You then have a final stage that takes this 350VDC and switches/slices it into a sine wave, and voila, you have 230VAC (RMS).
Because your frequency is much higher, the time constant t = 1 / f is much smaller, and hence a smaller magnetic store is needed.
Also, why 350VDC? Because the 230VAC we are used to is actually an average, an "RMS" value. It's the equivalent DC voltage if you will. Visually, you could think of taking the peaks of the sine wave, slicing them off, and dumping them into the valleys, and it will then level out at 230VDC. The peaks of the sine wave is actually around 325V... and this is why the high voltage DC bus must be at a higher voltage.
OK kids... class dismissed. If I got something wrong, there will be a teacher along to correct me shortly 🙂
 

It's largely marketing. Transformerless is ostensibly "better". Mostly it is used as a synonym for "high frequency", and it is considered transformerless because there is no big heavy block of iron (or a toroid, which is the same thing, but in a round ring with a different core material) bolted to the back of it. Instead of having the big transformer, a smaller one is mounted on the PCB. You can get away with a smaller transformer because you're using a higher frequency.
But let me take a step back and get into a bit of theory. In power electronics there are two things you usually need to do: buck, and boost. Buck means to reduce the voltage, and boost means to increase the voltage. You want to do this as efficiently as possible, so that if you multiply the voltage and current on the input and output, you get more than 90% of the power back on the other side. In order to do this, just about every design on the planet will use a magnetic component of some kind. By converting the input energy into magnetic flux, and then converting it back to electrical energy, you can swap volts for amps.
A transformer is not the only kind of magnetic component. You can of course do this with plain inductors as well (this is how an MPPT works by the way). The transformer does however give you isolation between input and output, and that is actually a desirable thing.
Now... every battery inverter on the market, except maybe for some models with a high voltage battery, needs a boost stage. Therefore it will have magnetic components to get the job done, and it more than likely WILL have a transformer. There are some exceptions, eg some PV-inverters (SMA etc) might be truely transformerless, but they will still have magnetic components in order to buck/boost the voltage to the right level... they just do away with the isolation (it is more efficient, and cheaper, because you save all the copper/space of the secondary windings).
So, to get back to my opening statement: It is mostly marketing. The real difference is whether it's a low frequency or high frequency design.

The tests was done sperately, each item being the only item at the time of testing. 
Geyser (2.1kw draw) - barely any noise
Kettle (1.4kw draw) - barely any noise
Microwave (2.2kw draw) -barely any noise
Big Geyser (4.6kw draw) - barely any noise
Hair Dryer (1.7kw draw) - inverter hums a lot
Hair Straightener (0.8kw draw) - inverter hums a lot
It seems like there is sommin about those two "long hair" appliances that is difficult .... much like their operator