Dani

I would climb up and disconnect 1 panel with winter cold coming. Sounds like your installer will run away if that mppt pops. And sunsynk won't warrant that claim. 

Nexuss It appears as if your geyser element rating exceeds your PV capacity even on a good day?
I would recommend getting a smaller element, that is well below your PV capacity, otherwise you will always be drawing the deficit from the battery when the geyser is on (or from the grid, if that is enabled). 
You don't want to cycle your batteries excessively, and you don't want to buy from Eskom. Smaller element means it'll have to be on for longer, but you will not dip into your battery every time.
Below is my graph on a typical sunny day. Batteries are full by 10h, then the geyser takes over (2kW) for two hours or so.

Peak PV Capacity is theoretically 5.5kW, geyser element is 2kW. Previously I had a 4kW element, and it was to close to the margin. On slightly bad days the geyser would require more than the PV can provide, and then it'll dip into the battery.

Firstly thanks to Everyone on this forum, I have learnt a lot by browsing the different posts. I am doing a DIY so it will take long. I am less patient as I get older but I have learnt that a rush-job is not the best way. I will rather take time, learn and try my best to do it properly. The inverter and batteries are up, comms cables in, next is battery cables and then the AC side. Wiring with 16mmsq which makes it a bit harder. I need to see what I do on the DB - I need to split away underfloor heating and a couple of other things. I have a Solahart solar geyser on a timer so not that worried about the geyser. Waiting on the panels 16 x 545w CS'. I will build my own AC DB, already have SPD's etc in an enclosure close by. For the N-E bond I will just use a contactor. Does anyone know where I can buy black conduit fitting and dark grey flex conduit?

8kw Sunsynk and 2 x 5.32kw SS batteries 
Customer will add solar panels later this year.
Don't ask about the pipe from the wall no idea why the builder put it there, it runs back into the DB 😅

The AM 2 is NMC, 20 % SOC is the recommended cut off point. LFP on the other hand can generally be taken down a lot lower than that.

I've finally purchased and installed a new hubble am2 to put next to my old one from 2021.
Noticed a few things the rated capacity is now 6000Wh which is awesome.
The new battery is the master and installed closest to the inverter. The old battery is second with the dipswitch set as such. 
The cable lengths are even. 
My sunsynk is set to lithium and it's talking nicely to the inverter. 
The new manual from hubble requires the battery to go to 100% at least every five days to balance the cells. 
I was thinking to use the equalization setting in my sunsyynk 5.5. 
Will this work? Does this setting override the communication cable and lithium setting? 
Finally what concerns me is the different stickers on the sides of the batteries. (float and equalization). 
Please help 🙏🙏
 

@Dani



You have 2 x AM-2 and a 5kW SunSynk and 4.8kWp panels
Batt Charge Panel:
The 40A is when charging from gen.
The 50A is when charging from grid.
If you have a N-E bond with an ATS connected, remember to select "Signal ISLAND MODE"
Note that the grid charge is at ~48V DC, so 50A*48V= ~2.4kW
South African Grid is ~230V AC, so 2.4kW is ~10.5A - see @BTTB comment about 25%


Batt Type:
I would use 100A Charge/Discharge
100A * 48V = ~4.8kW
I think the BMS overrides this.
Activate is to revive a dead battery

Shutdown Panel:
I use 5,7,10% - which may be a bit low for some users.
This is also dependent on the settings in System Mode 1 - I use 20%, which means the inverter will will discharge to 20%, then use grid.
If you at 20% and there is load shedding, then continue down to 5% and shutdown.
The 20% -> 5% happens very rearly.

Perhaps try 10,15,20 and 40% in System Mode which means the inverter will will discharge to 40%, then use grid.
If you at 40% and there is load shedding, then continue down to 10% and shutdown.
You need to select values appropriate for your usage.

Sorry, just spotted that you have the new battery set as Master.

I think the BMS overrides all. 

Great idea. 
 

OK -so excellent news! 
Our electrician came through and collected the Hubble battery for us on Tuesday and took it away to the Hubble warranty returns. 
We were expecting 2 weeks without a battery - BUT: 
There was a call the very next day to ask when would be convenient to return the battery! It was re-installed on Wednesday and appears to be working the way it is supposed to! 
There is no way of knowing what was done, but perhaps all it needed was a firmware update........... 
Phew!  Very impressed with the Hubble turnaround!

Hi Jay !!
And everybody that congratulated me on winning.
Jay thanks a lot for persisting in getting hold off me. I am in Northern Cape , 70km from Kuruman, and in over 2 weeks , if we had 5 full days off signal, that would be a lot...
I have never won anything in my life , this is the best news I have had in a very long time.
Thank you very much for a excellent forum !
 

@Meerkat Congrats Sir. You are the winner! You have been randomly selected out of 62 Entry's!!!
Congrats on the Victron Prize! Please make contact with us. For other members we loading some more awesome competitions to be loaded on Tuesday!!
Sincerely
Jason
 

I had a similar issue.  Logged a ticket with Hubble and took the battery in.   They replaced the faulty cell and I had the battery collected and reinstalled.  Took about a week.

Don't waste your money on a Riot mate. They are overpriced fridge magnets at best

Just an update :
Did some digging.
https://www.hellopeter.com/emi-solar-technologies
 
mf is a scammer , will name and shame so no one is caught by 
 

Hubble support is down right SOE(Telkom) level. Absolutely horrible  

Yes same cable. 

Apparently this battery is out of stock in Gauteng. 

I've just sent Hubble a support request. I'll keep you all updated. 

Following this topic with a gnashing of teeth. My hubble is less than a year old. After a few months it started providing about half the capacity. Took it in to hubble and and the tech reset the bms settings and it behaved for a few weeks but now it's back to its shenanigans.
Looks like it needs to go back to hubble. Maybe permanently this time. 
@HubbleLithium

Following this topic with a gnashing of teeth. My hubble is less than a year old. After a few months it started providing about half the capacity. Took it in to hubble and and the tech reset the bms settings and it behaved for a few weeks but now it's back to its shenanigans.
Looks like it needs to go back to hubble. Maybe permanently this time. 
@HubbleLithium

Following this topic with a gnashing of teeth. My hubble is less than a year old. After a few months it started providing about half the capacity. Took it in to hubble and and the tech reset the bms settings and it behaved for a few weeks but now it's back to its shenanigans.
Looks like it needs to go back to hubble. Maybe permanently this time. 
@HubbleLithium

Will do when i'm back home.

Hmmm, I think the best option here would be 2 strings, each with a 265W + 335W + 335W. Your 335W will have their output current reduced to 8.66A though, so probably only give you max 329W. Your Voc total is 129.9V which is in the save range of your inverter. Total current will be 8.66A x 2 = 17.32A which should again be safe.

The main problem is that a shaded panel affects all the panels in the same string.  In your case, you will lose a big part of the 6 panels in the 2 left hand strings.
You can kill 2 birds with one stone if you re-wire to 2S6P with the 2 offending panels in the same string. It will eliminate most of your shading losses and remove the risk of overvoltage damaging you inverter (I am assuming 145V max VOC inverter) .