Scorp007

Fully agree and thought it is checked after RMA.

Soft starter as per a previous post is your cheap solution.

Interesting that you need that lawn mower. Not sure what my 1800W starts at but running below 800W once on speed. My 5kW Deye very happy even from battery.

I would think that earth cables/copper earth bar are normally stolen. Neutrals would mean you will not have a grid connection? @wernerhp If you are on bypass with inverter disconnected do you still find the E/L tripping? If not then it points to the previous inverter fault and worth looking into it instead of looking at the E/L or house wiring.

Just an update. @TaliaB has been discharged. He will take a well deserved break and relax with family on a farm for a few weeks. We wish him a superb few weeks. 🙏🙏🙏

May the op go as planned and you out real soon. Amazing to experience the short duration via a stent instead of having major surgery. I could see all the videos and talk back while they did my stent.

It's a shame from a longer time seller to give you this reply. Recently I found Gitar BMS would cut on a delta of around 230mV even if far from a low voltage level by the lowest cell. Cannot say what your next move should be. 😢

All the best for you in the general ward. Glad to hear from you and thank you for sharing the feelings and all that panned out during the few days.

Just on your experience normally once you reach OV protection the voltage must drop quite a bit before resetting as you found when you manually discharged. Acceptable OV can be 3.6+ and a reset of 3.4V for phosphate cells. That is the guide line from JK BMS.

Update from @TaliaB is great news. The blood clot got dissolved a lot quicker than in Mauritius by administering via a drip. He is currently in the high care ward and if all goes well tonight he will be moved to a general ward tomorrow. 🙏🙏🙏

Some figures are in line with my experience like 45min for my ITS to reheat from about 26-30 deg up to 55 during the day from PV. My heat loss seems much lower and surprised to see you used so much power during Dec with no hot water used. My heat loss during say 12 hours during the night is only 8 deg. About 3 deg loss from 14h to 18h. I do have a long 30min of very little increase in temp after switching it on but once it starts heating it heats up very fast. This 30min is not present if it heats up from around 42 deg up to 55. Also having a 150L geyser and 4.7kw heating power ITS now 14yrs old.

The 0.5C battery if set correctly in the inverter settings prevent sending more than about 45A - 2 5kW to the battery. When loads are also connected the panels could generate more to cover the load as well. Above value determined by the PV that panels can generate. Inverter/BMS will control the maximum as per inverter setting and BMS firmware.

It is all the luck of the draw. You could have had a no name clone with say lightning damage imported yourself and the great experience could be different. My experience at a time. I imported a brick 12V inverter and it had running solder on the thick cables. I tried everything to have it replaced but no dice. Took the knock and never imported any item again. It was a reputable seller with good rating. Then used a Axpert clone 3kW Plus and it was only used during LS and retired in Feb but it is still in great shape and not a single problem. I just don't run these gadgets at full output. I would still like to see how well your batteries last going forward.

When it happens after load change. Is it when drawing a load or when switching off a load?

Morning members and friends. It is with sadness that I have to inform you that @TaliaB had another big blood clot in his right lung. He is in the Netcare Christian Barnard Memorial hospital ICU. Let's us be with him in prayers and thoughts As and when news is received I will share it here 🙏🙏🙏🙏

Sorry I just saw the Google result and not that it is 58V Here is another place. https://www.digikey.co.za/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc/142.5631.6152/2515915?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20198569094&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLlje5EBraZsgB_oj0G8Cbat3N&gclid=CjwKCAiA95fLBhBPEiwATXUsxMOTVveuZZ9YaF19e5uwdnxwD1DFLXZ4N2nd6ScGsyZmGN-rimU_bxoCdB0QAvD_BwE

Get the right seller. Communica are selling them at R52 each. 😀

With the correct size fuses that were blown the cables should not have been damaged easily. The weakest point can be MC4s. Worth checking when the panels are replaced. Check out the bypass diodes in the faulty panels if not done already. It seems strange to have all panels in the same string damaged and not just the weakest link. But yes lightning can have such a high surge that it is possible.

The problem is you look at the total voltage. With the cell(s) that are at 3.292V would run away to the top when charging and exceeds the 3.65V maximum voltage while the other 2 are lower. The total voltage can be still be below 13.4V. It is these 2 cells that will bulge. It seems the BMS is not stopping charge early enough during charge when any cell reaches over voltage. I would say you can still use the cells but monitor the bulging very closely going forward.

One will never use 0.1V between on and off. When a highish load is switched on the battery can easily drop by about 0.4V. One can use it the same way all Axperts work. Geyser only on at over 52.5V and when voltage below 51V switch off. This way you can prevent the high load of a geyser even when other high loads are switched on. This will prevent shade for short periods switching it off. My example was how to use a charge controller for charging also inverted as a battery protector. The low price to even protect any battery from deep discharge is worth it over and over compared to the cost of a battery being damaged. Lots of lithium are damaged(dead cell) by a cell being discharged too deep. More a problem in camping systems than residential systems as we normally have an inverter shutdown setting.

There is electrolyte that can come out and you also have the vent on top of the battery. Your bulging is very minor. I have seen 10 x more but then the cell was no longer working. It was over charged.

The solution is very simple. Just use a charger controller and inverter the output via n/c contact to switch of the geyser when voltage drops to the set level. Then the on board relay will switch off at charged voltage which will then provide power to the geyser again. Use an external relay if you don't trust the on board blue relay. Setting points for on/off as low as 0.1V apart and up to 60V. This model has an output of 230V and the input that is switched is 230V as well. Thus external relay will also be cheaper 230V than DC Relays. XH M602 Cost R145 or lower. PM me for details if in doubt. Long time no speak.

Could you perhaps share the volts, amps and power that the inverter shows and what you have measured for volts and amps for the PV strings you have connected to the said inverter?

I am using a basic Sonoff and tapped into a circuit that only powers a relay so no need to have the main current going through the Sonoff miniature relay.

I was very hesitant to suggest USE like I and @Antonio de Sa are using if one can use the more accurate method via comms cable but for sure it's worth a try.