solazzz

I spent the 20k on extra panels when I did my install, summer works fine, 200l geyser and I replaced the element with a 3kw one and installed a geyserwise timer to take the geyser to 65 degrees. Geyser comes on at 10:00 and runs until 13:00. We are 4 people in the house, winter is another story I have to let the geyser run in the morning to have a hot shower.

Hi
The solution is to run your devices/schedules from scenes. When LoadShedder is "ON" then you turn "OFF" the device and "DISABLE" scene automatically with in the Load sheading scene.
When LoadShedder is “OFF” you let the Recovery scene "Enable" the scenes and not the device.  When the time/schedule matches a given time it will turn "ON" based on the scene pushing the device "ON" from the eWelink server.
It works very well, we have this setup in over 2000 sites now and the only challenges were network issues which the Sonoff iHost has resolved.
Hope this helps and if you have any questions please feel free to contact us.
This was part of our original design and unfortunately may not apply to non-genuine LoadShedder due to hardware and wiring. 
 
Aleks 
Sonoff Africa

All closed up and commissioned, generated some nice watts today, I must say it was nice to install a Sunsynk inverter and batteries as a complete pack. Everything seems to just work, couple of minor settings to tweak to customers liking. The customer will monitor the winter PV on the West string for shading, the problem is if I move the panels to the East side, there is also a house with a high-pitched roof next door that is going to make shade on the East string, so I think it's a no-win situation. I might have to elevate the 2 x problem panels slightly higher on brackets and keep them on the West side.

I thought I should share this experience here. From what I heard, Sunsynk is generally a good brand and good value for money. I know quite a few people who have installed them and have had no issues. 
I installed an 8kW unit (along with 2xHubble 5.5kWh batteries and 10x550W panels) in January this year. It was working perfectly for about 4 days and then I received a DC overcurrent fault notification from the app. The installer had a look and tried resetting everything but kept getting faults. They disconnected the batteries (they seemed to start up just fine when not connected) but measured a dead short over the battery connection terminals on the inverter. Everything was logged on the app and all the important stats were well within the limits of the inverter. I was of course disappointed, but I understand that these things can happen.
The inverter was sent back to Sunsynk for replacement/repair on 23 January 2023. The installer did speak to them by phone to explain the situation and asked if they could expedite or provide a loan unit and they said they would see what they can do but the it might take up to 3/4 weeks. The installer sent weekly emails to follow up. The only response we received was a request for the serial number of the unit. After 4 weeks we received a response saying the unit will be ready the next week (this was almost 3 weeks ago). It is now more than 7 weeks since the return was logged and my last 4 emails have gone unanswered. I have essentially been ghosted. They have not provided any information on the reason for the delay or what the problem with the unit is. Only one short response saying the unit is being repaired should be ready "next week".
I don't know why this is being repaired instead of being replaced. They won't tell me that or who made the decision. I am really frustrated with he situation and their response. What really gets to me is the complete lack of feedback. When the install was done, my old 3kVA inverter with battery backup was disconnected from the essential circuits and it was reconfigured to run the whole house. When the inverter failed, I was under the impression the whole time that it would be replaced "soon". It just didn't make sense to re-wire the db and re-wire it again the next week when a replacement came. Even if they just let me know it would take two (or more) months to attend to it, I could have made alternate arrangements (renting one or buying a replacement for the meantime), but you are continually stuck in limbo.
Apologies for the rant. But I think people should know what they are getting into when they buy this brand. It is extremely frustrating.

Looks good,
Any options to be able to trigger changes to the Sunsynk settings from HA ?

Hi guys,
After initially sourcing our own components and getting a "sparky" who claimed to have many years of experience and certifications ("PV4 AREP") in solar, we started down this rabbit hole with:
1 x 8kW Sunsynk Inverter 10 x 460W JA Mono Solar Panels (installed onto our north facing tiled roof) 2 x WM5000 (4.95kWh; 1.5C) Greenrich batteries All worked ok but soon we realised that we needed more PV and more batteries and after doing research about our existing install, I started to question the initial installer about his work. Some issues that I picked up were:
According to him, you can put AC and DC cables in the same trunking, as long as the AC cable is surfix, it's shielded so it's ok 🤔 No indicator lights in the AC combiner box needed as there are indicator lights on the inverter At this point we'd already had a north facing galvanised frame designed & installed next to our existing array and purchased an additional 10 x 460W JA Mono Solar Panels and 1 x additional Greenrich WM5000. We did a self install of the panels which was fun (despite the Mrs complaining about all the time on the roof) and mounted the battery.
Once the panels were installed, I decided that it was time get hold of the legendary @Steve87 who not only gave me guidance in terms of my self install (earthing, frame spacing etc) but also came past to inspect and quote to fix the existing install & commission the new bits of kit. Amongst some of the issues he found were:
The items listed above 6mm wire used instead of 10 on the AC side (DB to inverter) Different battery cable lengths and super dodgy cable used Max charge rate of batteries set to 40A Steve feel free to add more issues found here 🤣: ______________________________________ ______________________________________ The system looks like this at the moment:
1 x 8kW Sunsynk Inverter 20 x 460W JA Mono Solar Panels (5s2p Mppt 1 and 5s2p Mppt 2 total 9200 watts 21.84A/Mppt) with 30A fuses 3 x WM5000 (4.95kWh; 1.5C) Greenrich batteries After a perfect day in JHB, it's evident that we have gone overboard on the PV, so wondering if I should start solar pooling with my neighbours or installing more geysers 😝
Next (and hopefully the last) phase is more battery storage... convincing the Mrs could take some time but I'm onto it!
Safety of the whole system has always been my most important requirement and knowing that Steve has fixed, commissioned and optimised the system has put my mind at ease - I cannot thank you enough!
And finally time for some pics:

Average Temps for May 2023:

Average Temps for June 2023:

 
Edit: I installed the fan mod during May 2023.

Hi All...
This is something I have been working on for a while based on my own work with some information gathered from others on this forum and probing what is available.
I have spent the last few days cleaning things up so that they can be easily imported into new environments 
There is a node red flow and a set of templates provided. 
Most plant/inverter information is available as a few main sensors with a lot of attributes on each 
Files etc are available on: https://github.com/gdwaterworth/Home-Assistant---E-Linter-Logger---Sunsynk
I have a seperate set of flows for updating the Sunsynk Settings, but these are NOT NOOB friendly. Also going through a lot of change atm
I have mainly been using those to ensure I always have battery soc available etc with the huge load shedding we have.
 
The current SunSynk Dongle is currently rebranded from e-linter.com.
http://e-linter.com/smart-energy/magpie
 
According to their about us, there are a few companies of invertors that are customers of theirs. Apparently compatible with the following invertors



 
 
The quickest way to check would be to try login to https://pv.inteless.com/ and see if you can login to there. It may be you are actually using a rebranded dongle.
If so then this set of flows should get your invertor stats.
 

@BugsRSAI just did a video on this exact automation in Home Assistant. 
Turns the pool on when the Solar Forecast is above a set level. 
Is really easy to do, no need to install Node-Red
 

The “Power” cell limits power draw from batteries for that time slot; PV is unaffected and charging is unaffected. Also the whole timer screen (System Mode-System1) only applies when there’s grid so you can use this Power field to go easier on your battery when there’s grid at those times without sacrificing PV.

You’ll also still have the inverter give you full power (limited by Discharge Amps on the Battery Setup page) when there’s load shedding.

So little more than 2 weeks after getting a solar system.
8kw Deye SUN-8KSG01LP1-EU SA Version
2 x 5.12kwh Dyness Bx51100
8 x 550w JA Solar panels
Great position on the roof, north facing. I am actually very lucky when I look at the some of the challenges others have with their roofs. Even the other side of pitch of the roof gets good winter sun for most of the day. 

 
Average day after playing around with the settings. 
 

 
Lowest SOC allowed in the settings for the battery is 40%, this is just play safe for loadshedding. Grid Charge to 100% from 5pm to 9pm, usually by 5pm the battery is 90-95%. Then from 9pm we start to draw from the battery again. Got a 2kw element for the geyser and a geyserwise timer for it, set it on to 65deg. Run time is 9am to 3pm and 4am to 5am. Occasionally if we do use a lot of hot water, I might manually run the geyser for an hour. 
I also have the pool pump (.75kw) on a timer 10am to 3pm.
 
Some random thoughts, questions and ponderings:  
So looking at the NOCT values of my panels I am currently hitting almost 100% of that, when will I start to get closer to the STC values or is STC values unicorn stuff? 
Either way I am thinking of getting 6 more panels later, considering that I still have another MPPT open, I don't have to use the same make of panels? 
A third battery isn't necessary at the momnet, but it would be nice, for those cloudy days. 
My average load without the power-hungry stuff seems to be about 400-500w/h to 100-200w/h when we go to bed.  
So, in theory if we play it nice, we can be mostly of grid on a sunny day. Otherwise in sunny months we are in for about 85/90% saving on out power bills. 
 

Alex - I'm the product manager of Solis Europe and South Africa.  This is one of the best and thorough reviews I have seen in a long time.  Please email me if you have time.  [email protected] 

An expanded, consolidated version of this review can be found here: https://technica.thalmanns.com/2024/12/solis-s6-pro-hybrid-single-phase.html
I recently decided to give the new Solis S6 inverter (S6-EH1P6K-L-PRO) a long test drive by replacing the 4-year-old Goodwe 5048ES at my home with the Solis. The purpose of this was to evaluate the performance of the inverter in a real-use environment over an extended period, and largely compare it to its closest Sunsynk equivalent, which is a favourite local hybrid option. I should note that the 5kw and 8kw versions of this inverter are physically very similar and most of what is indicated here will apply to those models as well.
Since the inverter is located in a noise-sensitive location, I opted for the largest fan-free version, which is the 6 kW model, and this sports a large passive-cooled heatsink on the back of the inverter, as per Sunsynk and Goodwe. The 8 kW model uses fans for forced-air cooling and until I’ve heard the noise profile of the fans, which can often be more miss than hit with inverters, the 6 kW version sounded like the best fit. I had initially planned on using a single 5kW Sunsynk and then possibly expanding to two in parallel over time but decided that given the apparent attractiveness of the offer, the Solis warranted some investigation.
Specification-wise, the Solis looks compelling, with a price tag of the 6 kW version essentially matching the ubiquitous and benchmark 5 kW Sunsynk, with both inverters being NRS certified for South Africa and offered with a 5 year warranty. It does have some notable features, besides the obvious power output advantage, that make it stand out though. It has wide voltage range MPPTs that startup and operate from 90V making an array starting with three panels possible. It’s upper MPPT (520V), maximum operating voltage (600V), and peak operating current (16A) are also higher than the Sunsynk. This all ends up with the total maximum PV input power on the Solis being 9.6 kW compared to the Sunsynk’s 7kw. Overall, this suited my existing solar array setup better, and ultimately makes the Solis notably more flexible on this front.
Connection-wise, the inverter feels rather like a Sunsynk as well. In addition to the Grid and Load ports, a Generator/Auxiliary port is also present, although it currently appears this port is only configurable for power input, not output as well as with the Sunsynk. There is an external CT clamp connection for the internal power meter, although the supplied CT cable length is a bit miserly at around 1m or so. The usual battery BMS, parallel and RS485 (MODBUS) ports are also present, as well as a generator start signal and grid-loss relay outputs. However, the inverter automatically bonds Neutral and Earth at the Load port on grid loss, possibly controlled by the Grid Standard setting selected, so an external contactor, if required for grid code conformance, would not be required for this inverter, as was the case with my previous Goodwe.
Installation was rather straight forward with no unwelcome surprises or irritations. The inverter hangs on and is secured to a simple separate wall mount bracket that is easy to install. I did note that the inverter heatsink and internal PE terminals are not electrically connected and must be bonded as specified in the user manual. Once all the connections were complete, the inverter’s relatively simple but elegant-looking display lights up, giving a basic battery SoC level-type indication, any alarm state, and the active state of the WiFi and/or Bluetooth interfaces. The inverter has a chunky WiFi dongle as well as a Bluetooth antenna that protrude from the bottom of the inverter, but that shouldn’t present a problem unless (incorrectly) installed in a space-constrained environment. So far so good.
Solis decided to forgo a display and buttons on the inverter itself and rather leverage long-range Bluetooth and WiFi for commissioning the inverter via the SolisCloud App. After downloading the App, and creating an account, connecting to the inverter was relatively straight forward and fuss-free. There are a significant number of configuration sections and options to potentially fiddle with, but thankfully Soils has created a quick start shortcut that takes you through the few steps of setting up the basics, such as the type of battery, to get everything running. My inverter is paired with Pylontech batteries and the BMS comms worked flawlessly out the box. I was impressed how quickly and easily I managed to get everything working. After some initial fiddling, I did realise I had installed the CT sensor the wrong way around (arrow towards the grid, as with Goodwe, but opposite of Sunsynk). However, there is a configuration setting in the inverter that allows the direction to be corrected in software, which I promptly enabled to avoid any more physical labour, but found the inverter was still doing unexpected things, like exporting battery power to the grid when I had told it not to export anything. In the end, I begrudgingly took out a screwdriver and opened the DB board again, corrected the CT direction and then everything worked as expected. So nice idea on the CT setting, but maybe it needs a bit more work in terms of all the effects on the inverter’s various modes of operation.
Which brings me directly to my first notable issue I have with this inverter. As per the Goodwe, it’s missing a Sunsynk-like time-of-day multi-minimum SoC setting operational mode. It has quite a few operational modes, but those that do, only allow the definition of charge and discharge times and power, just like the Goodwe. Maybe this makes sense when using Time of Use tariffs, but otherwise just seems unnecessarily befuddling and complex for the average South African that just wants to make the sure power stays on. You can however set one reserve SoC per mode, which will tell the inverter when to stop discharging the battery, but this is not as flexible and useful as the Sunsynk SoC timer where setting different SoC values depending on the time of day is possible.
Also, as seems standard in the inverter industry, there are a multitude of settings that have no reference in the manual, probably due to newer firmware releases since the manual was published, but descriptions for many settings are simply not defined anywhere – videos, the Solis website or otherwise. Making setting available without proper documentation for installers or end-users is just poor practice, but again, even Sunsynk is guilty of this habit.
Thus far, after about two weeks, the inverter has worked flawlessly, without issue. In my home, I typically run all essential and non-essential loads off the inverter, so this includes running a 3kW geyser, electric stove and two inverter-type air conditioners. Of course, not everything runs at the same time and some load management is still required, but the extra 1.5 kw headroom over the 4.6 kW Goodwe is certainly appreciated. I have also noticed the inverter seems to run noticeably cooler than a Sunsynk 5 kW, as well my previous Goodwe, with the heatsink only getting noticeably warm after running the geyser for its daily Geyserwise-controlled cycle. The inverter does appear to have an internal fan, like a Sunsynk but quieter, and I’ve only heard it turn on once when my CT-issues caused it to export 6 kW to the grid. Plotting the internal inverter temperature on the SolisCloud app shows the inverter internal temperature has not gone above 48 C yet, with the inverter being mounted in a ventilated cupboard.
Which is a good time for me to raise my second notable issue with the Solis S6. Say what you want, but there is something innately appealing about the simplicity of a touchscreen and buttons, where you can always go press a button, change a setting, and see (or not) the results immediately. The problem with the Solis is that without a physical interface, the user is highly reliant on their technical ability to use the App, the useability of the App itself, and reliability of the ability to connect to the inverter. This was the main problem with my previous Goodwe, where between the flaky WiFi interface and glitchy infrequently updated software, interacting with the inverter became a largely “touch-once, and forget” affair. Monitoring the inverter via the WiFi app mostly worked, but most irritatingly sometimes didn’t. And have mercy if you needed to change configuration modes or something similarly esoteric like that – often you simply weren’t sure if the change had been applied or if a good old inverter reboot was required first.
Unfortunately, while significantly better than the Goodwe software, the SolisCloud App currently has a lot of rough edges and issues. This is understandable to an extent with a relatively new Solis cloud platform and range of inverters but needs to be considered when comparing to a well-established and more mature platform offered by Sunsynk. However, some of the issues leaves one wondering what they are thinking exactly and how some of these issues are making their way into released software. For example, on the cloud platform the data displayed in the basic “real-time” power flow diagrams is incorrect - PV power values being shown at night for example. Also, the App and inverter supposedly have two methods of connecting to and configuring the inverter locally – via Bluetooth and WiFi. The Bluetooth method is the only method described in the manual and videos that I could find on the web. The WiFi method is there but doesn’t appear to work, throwing connection/password errors that don’t appear to make sense. And then a recent automatic App update seems to have bricked my ability to connect to the Inverter at all via Bluetooth – all I get is a blank screen and nothing happens whereas before it worked without issue. Restarting the inverter and phone hasn’t helped. So now, I have no way of configuring the inverter locally – which isn’t particularly confidence inspiring.
This brings me on the third and final issue with this inverter, which relates to remote configuration. If you are an installer, you can’t currently manage customer inverter settings remotely, which is a big downside when compared to the Sunsynk platform. As an end user, it is possible to manually request this remote management functionality. I have done so and am able to configure the inverter this way, at least until Solis can sort out the local configuration issues. It would be interesting to understand the reasoning why this functionality cannot be enabled by default or at least be controlled via a local setting for security reasons. The Solis web site does seem to allude to the fact that the remote management of inverters by installers may be possible at some point in the future. However, until that time arrives, if ever, it means my choice of supplying a customer a Sunsynk or a Solis will always favour the former as remote access is such a critical and time saving feature.
As this is a long-term test and evaluation of this inverter, I will continue to experiment and note changes/updates made to the inverter’s operation. There are certain aspects that I have not tested yet, such as the behaviour and power control in feed back to non-essential loads, which will develop over time.
So in summary, the Solis S6 inverter has serious potential to offer a competitive alternative to the current local favourite Sunsynk’s benchmark offering, but is hampered by firmware and software issues, all of which needs to be addressed promptly by Solis. As with any technical device these days, great hardware can be ruined or rendered forgotten by poor software.
Pros:
6 kW power for the same price as a 5 kW Sunsynk. More flexible PV capabilities compared to a Sunsynk. Runs relatively cool and is practically silent. Cons:
Inverter has no SoC-level timer operational mode. SolisCloud App needs work to make it reliable. Remote configuration for installers is missing.  
*** Update - 21/07/2023 ***
I was contacted by the Solis' local technical support team to try sort out some of the issues I had encountered - thank you for the proactive support!
A remote firmware upgrade of the inverter was performed, and it was suggested I try uninstall/reinstall the SolisCloud app as well. The result is one of these actions solved the local Bluetooth connection issue, but I can't say which, so if anyone has the same issue, I would recommend try either clearing the app cache (in the App, go to Me->Settings->General->Clean Cache) or uninstall-reinstall the app first. For reference, you can contact the local support team at [email protected] to request a firmware update - you will need to send them the inverter S/N and data logger S/N.
Also, contrary to what is specified on the Solis website, local Solis support informed me it is possible to remotely configure inverters from a single "installer" type account that contains multiple customer inverters and we are in the process of activating it on the account and I will test drive the functionality once available. Again, please contact the local support team and they will assist in organising the functionality for those that require this.
Finally, the local support team did indicate they would put in a request for a SoC-schedule type operating mode, so I'm holding thumbs. For some users, they may be fine with one of the current operating modes with a single minimum SoC threshold, but a schedule would just be better and simpler for South African conditions.
*** Update 30/07/2023 ***
Solis enabled my installer remote control access and I can confirm I can now control my inverter through my installer account as well. Apparently remote access will soon be enabled by default for end users.
Travis, Product Manager from Solis, also confirmed the SoC schedule is in the queue to be implemented which is great news
After my recent firmware update, I see the inverter now also has options for using the Aux port as an output port, as per Sunsynk, but it seems the CT software reversal setting has disappeared, possibly related to operational issues as noted in the review.
Some bugs in the apps and Bluetooth interface have been addressed as well, and thankfully, the last password used to log in via Bluetooth is now automatically remembered. The local WiFi config mode still doesn't appear to work though.
*** Update 30/10/2023 ***
Some developments:
- The inverter has some strange battery charging behaviour, at least with my Pylontech batteries. It will charge the batteries to 100% SoC but then seems to stop, even although the battery BMS charge current limit has not reached 0, which I believe is incorrect. Oddly, this behaviour only occurs when the grid is not connected. As soon as the grid connection is enabled, the inverter ramps up the solar to charge the battery until the battery sets the charge current limit to 0. To me, this indicates a bug in the inverter firmware but the local Solis support doesn't seem to agree. The firmware of all the batteries (mixture of US3000/US3000C's) is up to date. I should also note that the 8kw Solis inverter I've replaced the 6kw with now doesn't do this but does instead charge to 100% SoC until the charge current is zero (without grid) but then seems to let the SoC decay, even after the battery BMS lifts the charge current limit from 0, indicating it wants charge. Not sure yet at what SoC point the inverter would decide to charge the battery again.
- I upgraded to the 8kw model for comparison. The two inverters are physically very similar except the 8kw has two more MC4 connectors for paralleling one of the PV inputs and has 3 fans mounted at the bottom side of the heatsink for active cooling (air is blown upwards). The mounting bracket for both is almost the same but not identical (the holes for the screws for securing the inverter are not quite in the same location) so I had to swap the mounting bracket but everything else was easy to reconnect. Pity Solis couldn't make the bracket the same for all the models - this could be useful for installers to do easy upgrades or temporary unit swaps.
The fans on the 8kw don't run under most conditions. They are either on or off, and when running are fairly loud (with a noise signature akin to a jet engine 😁) so I wouldn't mount the inverter in a noise sensitive location. The fans always turn on when the inverter power (load or solar power into batteries) is greater than 3kw, or when the internal temperature rises above around 46C or so. Generally this doesn't happen often or too frequently and isn't too problematic, but if you have a cloudy day where the solar is ramping up/down, the fans can turn on and off constantly as the sunshine ebbs and flows which isn't very intelligent. I think the fan behaviour could be better designed, especially the part where the fans always turn on above a 3kW load. I would like to understand why it isn't possible to make this component/heatsink or ambient temperature instead, unless it points to a design compromise, maybe something similar to what is generally done with Voltronic inverters where the lack of passive cooling needs to be made up with active cooling. At least the fan speed doesn't ramp up or down based on load, which must be the most audibly annoying feature possible.
I will note again that the 6kw inverter (and probably the 5kw version as well) run much cooler than the 5kw Sunsynk. Even the 8kw seems to be much the same as the 6kw in this regard, with the inverter heatsink never getting to the egg-frying touch temperatures experienced with the Sunsynks.
- The app configuration settings are a bit of a mess at present, seemingly more so now than in the past - hopefully this will be addressed soon! Many settings that used to be available when I first installed the inverter have been removed or may have been hidden which is a bit frustrating. This also results in situations where the local Solis support directs a user to change settings that simply don't exist. Case in point is they had to remotely do a factory reset of the 6kw inverter as the supposed option to do so simply does not exist in my app, which is the latest version.
- Note that there is still no SoC-timer work mode functionality present for these inverters.
So which to choose between the Solis and Sunsynk right now? Inverter prices, along with all other components have been dropping nicely over the last few months and the 5kw Sunsynk is now typically a bit cheaper than the 6kw Solis. Admittedly the improvements in the software and firmware on the Solis side are not where I'd hoped they would be by now. Hardware wise, the Solis still appears to be a close and in a few cases, a better match for the Sunsynk. However, the software (firmware and app) side continues to be the main problem area. If you want a mature platform that is less likely to give you some grey hairs and that is arguably easier and simpler to use right now go with the Sunsynk. 
 

Also on a similar journey  
Was considering the geyserwise, maybe even a gas geyser, who knows. For now managing to get by with the CBI timer and manual runs here and there.
I did have one day where the loadshedding level changed during the night and my geyser got the battery down to 22%, just 2% shy of shutdown. So also looking at the Home Assistant route, I see a lot of good info on this forums. Will try get there, slowly.
 

The panels was quite a challenge due to roof construction. 2 strings 8 and 7 in series 9.150 kwp. FW 15/12 impressive as usual. Inverter location not ideal work bench right next to FW battery.


 

Exactly!
And in my case I instead want to avoid using much battery and use solar only during grid-down; so rather than 30% I'd do from 93%-98% (5% is the minumum allowed range) with a 200W Solar Power requirement (since that's just below my daytime baseload) to trigger the port to be active when there's PV. And if there's insufficient PV (because 200W is the trigger but 2500W is the geyser requirement), it'll drop the battery SOC and then switch off; whilst if it's partly cloudy that 5% battery range can provide a bit of a buffer for momentary drops in PV.
 
The 'On-Grid-Always-On' setting plus my CBI's Asute timers will continue to cover nighttime on-grid activity and after-shower-time-based-power-downs... but one day I'm going to go smarter here and install a pair of GeyserWise thermostats, to target higher geyser temperatures during the day and lower temperatures at night - since I often forget to manually switch them off when everyone's done with the hot water for the night earlier than the timer is set for; which is a waste of muncipal heating power. But that's a discussion for another thread 😀

Some other threads covering this type of topic.
Use the function for zero export that allows power to the home. Then under the time of use function, during the daytime slot when running the geyser, set the battery percent to 100%. It will run from solar first, then add from grid. When running the geyser early in the morning, limit the battery power to something low like 300-500W. The rest will be from grid.
The point of the lower Watt element is to increase the likelihood of solar generation being more than geyser consumption in the given time slot. Search around the forum for some older threads on PTC heaters. But 2kW of power seems either way underpowered to heat up 200l quickly, but that's a personal opinion.

My basic test showed not much less power used by a AC PTC element vs a normal AC element. The normal 2kW element is only a fraction of the cost of a PTC element. 
If you know the temp of the geyser you can use the value of 175Wh per degree increase for a 150L geyser or 233Wh per degree for a 200L geyser. Check what is the temp early in the morning and then decide how long should the element be switched on to get the geyser to 42 degrees for the morning shower. 
@GreenFields Sunsynk do indicate cycling every day but not more than 700 cycled per year. 
 

So, things I would like to see from the Sunsynk Dongle:
-  plugin for Home Assistant to access the Sunsynk Dongle directly. 
- Multiple saved inverter settings to allow the user to switch between Load Shedding and Normal Usage settings at the click of a button
- An easier to understand UI, lots of data at the moment, just not intuitive

The easiest way i have found is to just limit the battery power in the system work mode for the particular time. I have mine set to 2000w for the evening so it cant deplete the battery as fast when using the oven or geyser.

I think it's normal, I also noticed this when the battery is close to 100% and the BMS limits the charging amps.
You will notice under the LiBMS page that the BMS will likely have the charge amps set to 0A. Once it drains a bit it will go back to normal.
That is my experience, maybe the more knowledgeable can comment as well.

In an attempt to get rid of the 15kHz noise on mine I asked for them to be updated one at a time. The first one was updated within an hour: M 3.3.8.4 / S  1.5.1.5 / C E.4.2.4. The second one I'm now waiting more than 4 days...
Edit: this morning (14th) I got C E.4.3.0 loaded on the second one after waiting 2 days after logging yet another ticket and had to again request that the same be loaded on my primary one. Luckily that happened fairly quickly. Now the 15kHz noise has moved to 20kHz which can't be heard.

The inverter will cover the scenario @solazzz describes:
Under all circumstances, the “Discharge Amps” specified in the Battery Setup screen will govern maximum battery draw. 
 
When the grid is up, the Power stipulated for that time slot in System Mode- System1 (as long as it’s lower than “Discharge Amps”) takes priority. So the battery will be discharged at a maximum of the watt value stipulated there; but capped at the Discharge Amps. 
 
Likewise the SOC % values per timeslot are only adhered to if there’s grid at that time.
 
When the grid goes down, the timeslot values in System1 fall away and the only limit is Discharge Amps, and the Battery Setup “ShutDown” percentage; which will power the output down at that percentage, and trip the inverter above Discharge Amps.
 
This means that you can go easy on the battery when the grid is up and harder when the grid goes down. I’ve set mine to do this, with an 80A (around 4kW) limit in grid-down, but just 2.7kW when there’s grid.

This may help someone, I found it useful. 
On the Sunsynk portal : Select "equipment", "inverter", click the serial number of the inverter in question , select "custom" , then click "parameter", then tick "P-Grid", and right at the bottom tick "P-external-CT-L1".
This will give you a good overview and show you if your CT is upside down (remotely - yes I know this can be seen on the touch screen as well).
It will allow you to judge if your CT is reading consistent info, which is useful when the CT is far away and extended with CAT cable. 
If its correctly installed it will give you a decent view of the non-essential loads throughout the day, even when there isnt sufficient solar PV to export to them. 
You can see the first part of the graph, the CT was installed incorrectly, then corrected thereafter. 
 

Sunsynk 8KW 1P - Single Phase commissioned 25 July and Updated by Sunsynk support
Software Ver. ©
M 6.0.2.4 / S 2.4.1.7 / C E.4.3.0