Tinuva

I think GreenMan is referring to the posts MyBB CBI Astute thread
HermanG said: You don't possbly have a Mikrotik router? I see there is a router assistance manual available. Had the same issue om my VOX Mikrotik. Swapped to another router and added without issue.   His fix:    I can confirm that this was the issue.
   On a Mikrotik Router the DHCP DNS server needs to be changed to 8.8.8.8
   After making the change the devices were added to the app without problems.    

This is mine:
https://github.com/tinuva/home-assistant-config/blob/master/packages/tuya_local.yaml
Instead of the template sensors, you can let the tuya plugin create them for you, just use those other numbers for the id on them.
 
 
 

Yeah that was a big bummer. I am going to order ESP boards from Aliexpress and flash them with tasmota and replace them into my 4x new Qualitel plugs. Before I will be able to do that, need to buy new finer soldering points for my soldering iron. Will only start to use them once I have them on Tasmota.

I have to say, I am incredibly frustrated the past couple of days with the wifi module.
Over the weekend, the inverter just stop responding to home assistant, but also stopped updating sems portal. 
On top of that, can't connect to the Solar wifi AP of the wifi module, because it keeps on resetting, so not even able to get into pv master. Its like having an inverter and just flying blind having no clue what is going on.
Eventually was able to get it online by completely powering down the inverter having everything reset and it was back up...for a day!! Then down again from last night.
Did contact Goodwe on the weekend and they responded. Provided me with latest firmware for the wifi module (which I think I was already on) and they also remotely upgraded my ARM firmware to 17.
So eventually I found some segan solar doc, which shows there is a wifi reset/reload button. This coupled with a few more complete shutdowns of the inverter, managed to reset my wifi module settings, where it doesn't connect to wifi at all and this allowed me to get back in. Only to get everything set up and to fail miserably again.
Eventually I figured out, it happens when I change the password of the Solar wifi AP, because who wants to leave it on the default password right? and allow anyone in range to connect. &*#R&*(@#&)*(@*&(@
So NOT changing that password, resetting again, and now it seems I am back online. So much for security.

I have to say, I am incredibly frustrated the past couple of days with the wifi module.
Over the weekend, the inverter just stop responding to home assistant, but also stopped updating sems portal. 
On top of that, can't connect to the Solar wifi AP of the wifi module, because it keeps on resetting, so not even able to get into pv master. Its like having an inverter and just flying blind having no clue what is going on.
Eventually was able to get it online by completely powering down the inverter having everything reset and it was back up...for a day!! Then down again from last night.
Did contact Goodwe on the weekend and they responded. Provided me with latest firmware for the wifi module (which I think I was already on) and they also remotely upgraded my ARM firmware to 17.
So eventually I found some segan solar doc, which shows there is a wifi reset/reload button. This coupled with a few more complete shutdowns of the inverter, managed to reset my wifi module settings, where it doesn't connect to wifi at all and this allowed me to get back in. Only to get everything set up and to fail miserably again.
Eventually I figured out, it happens when I change the password of the Solar wifi AP, because who wants to leave it on the default password right? and allow anyone in range to connect. &*#R&*(@#&)*(@*&(@
So NOT changing that password, resetting again, and now it seems I am back online. So much for security.

Someone on the Home Assistant plugin discord server @ https://discord.gg/TaXyWXT
was using this and had many issues.
There another firmware you need to update, the communication module firmware (sits inside inverter) that is updated separately from the normal firmware. Think it has to show version 13 at the end in SEMS. Mine is on 11.
Anyways join there and read about all the issues, you may have no issues at all or many issues to get it to work. Seems to me like the wifi module just works better.
To keep my wifi solid at home I use Unifi APs all over and can say my Goodwe have not given me a single issue on wifi yet. Actually none of my wifi stuff give issues unless they really really far away from the APs and have to go through multiple (like 4+) walls.

So interesting question. In PV Master in the advanced settings, is the inverter set to do full-wave detection or half wave or none? Because if that is not set to full-wave, then it doesn't matter if the inverter is set to South Africa or not.
I have heard of other goodwe installations in SA where full wave detection was not set. On my own inverter, it is set to full wave detection, and every freaking time there is something funny on the grid, it kicks into off-grid mode. What is annoying about this is, then 30 second later the inverter goes into check mode, which kills all the solar generation for 60 seconds, and then its like the MPPT restarts and the solar generation have to rebuild up slowly to full generation. Now imagine this happening every 5-10 minutes. Highly annoying. However I will take this over spikes going through to the backup side and killing fridges.

Where you located? Sounds like someone need to help you in person on site.
You need to read the diagnostic messages in pv master, to understand if the inverter is complaining about something.
If the BMS read status good, there are charge limit showing provided by the BMS, battery is turned on, and there is excess PV, the inverter should start charging the battery slowly before ramping up.
However, first thing to read, is the diagnostic messages, without that, you will be cluess as to why the inverter is not charging.
Try and provide as much screenshots from pv master as possible, maybe we can figure it out.

The most important aspect is that the Inverter output neutral is never mixed up with the Eskom Neutral otherwise this can happen. This is the massive danger of not splitting the Main DB into Essentials and Non essentials staying the Eskom supply DB. 
Essentially what you getting is the AC input Neutral meeting the Inverter Output Neutral & it is here where the damage happens. I did the exact same thing on a site where it was a compete mess & there was no split done. Needless to say, a fridge, kettle & PC later. It's really harrowing but a Full DB split & very close attention to the neutrals prevents all of this mess. The Lives are easy to track due to the nature that it's colour coded & goes through the other end of the Changeover switch. The Neutrals hide a hidden trap & if the input Neutral meets the out neutral you have the start of all the issues. 
God luck with this but I can having cleaned up a few messes tell you the Neutrals is where the issue lies...

Run a wire 90meters and a 20 Amp load you will need 10mm2 cable. This will ensure you have a voltage drop less than 5%(3.38%)

I don't know what is the Sans specifications but using 2,5 mm2 over 90 meters is going to give you an approximately  +_ 8 V voltage drop based on that distance I would go for 8 mm2 I could be wrong

No problem switching between modes, I even have some of the mode changing automated from Home Assistant using https://github.com/mletenay/home-assistant-goodwe-inverter
Some important points to be aware off
Don't switch to "offgrid" mode. If you do, the inverter will drop all power on backup side when you reboot You need a reboot for a new selected mode to take affect If grid is active, you can reboot and backup load won't lose power, except if you were in offgrid mode prior to the restart Depending on what you want to do, its sometimes better changing the on-grid DoD value to manage the battery for loadshedding. This is what I do the most as it doesnt need a reboot a reboot causes solar generation to drop to 0 AND it needs to relearn the panels as if it was the first time connecting the panels, so generation starts slow and takes time to ramp up fully I only change between backup and general, only after the sun is down and if grid is active. Eco mode can also be used to change between charging and discharging.

Hopefully that will change in the future.

 
Apologies it is a screenshot, I can't find the direct reply link.
 
Edit: found it.
 

@Andre grobler

I know you have already spent a lot of time going the voltronics route, but really, do yourself a favour and look again at the Sunsynk with a lot more attention.
You can not go wrong with it even over Victron in my opinion. There are just too many positives and I think a select few negatives. It beats most of the competition with value for money. The features are best for the price and there are no compromises, except that it is a single unit vs separate units such as the Victron.
Otherwise, if you stay with the voltronics then at least go with the pylontech batteries.
 

@Andre grobler

I know you have already spent a lot of time going the voltronics route, but really, do yourself a favour and look again at the Sunsynk with a lot more attention.
You can not go wrong with it even over Victron in my opinion. There are just too many positives and I think a select few negatives. It beats most of the competition with value for money. The features are best for the price and there are no compromises, except that it is a single unit vs separate units such as the Victron.
Otherwise, if you stay with the voltronics then at least go with the pylontech batteries.
 

@Andre grobler

I know you have already spent a lot of time going the voltronics route, but really, do yourself a favour and look again at the Sunsynk with a lot more attention.
You can not go wrong with it even over Victron in my opinion. There are just too many positives and I think a select few negatives. It beats most of the competition with value for money. The features are best for the price and there are no compromises, except that it is a single unit vs separate units such as the Victron.
Otherwise, if you stay with the voltronics then at least go with the pylontech batteries.
 

@Andre grobler

I know you have already spent a lot of time going the voltronics route, but really, do yourself a favour and look again at the Sunsynk with a lot more attention.
You can not go wrong with it even over Victron in my opinion. There are just too many positives and I think a select few negatives. It beats most of the competition with value for money. The features are best for the price and there are no compromises, except that it is a single unit vs separate units such as the Victron.
Otherwise, if you stay with the voltronics then at least go with the pylontech batteries.
 

How do you know the inverter is rebooting?

Asking, because those graphs look like the inverter has connection issues to SEMS instead of rebooting.
 
Also those graphs look strange.

Is this a light on the input side or the grid led on the inverter?
If the LED, it means the inverter is not happy with the frequency/voltage of the grid. What is the pv master app reporting here?
This could be as simple as 1 of 2 things.
1. You need to set your inverter to the correct country, eg. South Africa
2. If on older firmware, South Africa setting was bad and you had to use custom. If you update to the latest firmware then this is fixed when using South Africa. Since your original post you mentioned they wanted you to do a firmware upgrade, I recommend you do this. If you don't run the latest firmware, I don't see why Goodwe would agree to you dropping of the inverter at Segen. You absolutely must test the latest firmware first.
 
Seeing as you have solar, your installer probably put your inverter into General mode. So not charging from the grid is 100% expected. This inverter will only charge from the grid if set to Backup mode or Eco Charge mode. While I am using backup mode myself, the correct way probably is to use eco charge, bit more complex to set up.
 
Not sure what you mean here. So the battery is not used for providing backup power when there is loadshedding? If this is the case, its another setting not done correctly on your inverter. In pv master, in advanced settings, there is a setting "Backup supply" which MUST be turned on, if you want the inverter to supply power during power outages.

Who is your installer? Sounds like the installer didn't configure your inverter correctly. You can do this if you want using pv master. Are you willing to try? I wonder if goodwe themselves even looked at the settings, they can see it remotely if your inverter is connected but they will probably leave it up to the installer to configure.
I am lucky, my installer is a huge fan of goodwe and use the same inverter at his house, so he knew exactly how to configure mine and I suspect that is why mine works flawless.
 

Is this a light on the input side or the grid led on the inverter?
If the LED, it means the inverter is not happy with the frequency/voltage of the grid. What is the pv master app reporting here?
This could be as simple as 1 of 2 things.
1. You need to set your inverter to the correct country, eg. South Africa
2. If on older firmware, South Africa setting was bad and you had to use custom. If you update to the latest firmware then this is fixed when using South Africa. Since your original post you mentioned they wanted you to do a firmware upgrade, I recommend you do this. If you don't run the latest firmware, I don't see why Goodwe would agree to you dropping of the inverter at Segen. You absolutely must test the latest firmware first.
 
Seeing as you have solar, your installer probably put your inverter into General mode. So not charging from the grid is 100% expected. This inverter will only charge from the grid if set to Backup mode or Eco Charge mode. While I am using backup mode myself, the correct way probably is to use eco charge, bit more complex to set up.
 
Not sure what you mean here. So the battery is not used for providing backup power when there is loadshedding? If this is the case, its another setting not done correctly on your inverter. In pv master, in advanced settings, there is a setting "Backup supply" which MUST be turned on, if you want the inverter to supply power during power outages.

Who is your installer? Sounds like the installer didn't configure your inverter correctly. You can do this if you want using pv master. Are you willing to try? I wonder if goodwe themselves even looked at the settings, they can see it remotely if your inverter is connected but they will probably leave it up to the installer to configure.
I am lucky, my installer is a huge fan of goodwe and use the same inverter at his house, so he knew exactly how to configure mine and I suspect that is why mine works flawless.
 

Ah. This is the matter we discussed earlier: As long as there is comms between BMS and inverter then the BMS runs the show.

Thanks

What exactly is your issue?
Strange thing is, when I needed support it was actually pretty decent and quick. Sure it was through email/ticket but it was all I needed at the time.
When I really had an issue, my installer was super quick to come out and look.
Still, what is your issue with the inverter though? What is it doing or not doing?

BMS monitor the voltage over the whole pack and then also have a tap wire to each cell individually. So it can monitor the cells for specific scenerios.
As for knowing what the batteries want, I guess the correct wording is, the bms is programmed for what is best for the batteries and then it tell the inverter what the limits are at any given stage.
For a deep dive, you can read a "How a BMS works" page.
I like this reddit wiki: https://old.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/wiki/batteries#wiki_li-ion_bms
https://www.orionbms.com/general/how-it-works/
https://www.synopsys.com/glossary/what-is-a-battery-management-system.html
 

Batteries charging at 52A from grid. Eta 1h as can be seen at bottom. 
 

Er buddy I don't think you quite understand how this work.
60A at the battery side is not the same as 60A at the grid side.
1000w at battery side (which is 48v) will be ~20A.
Pulling that 1000w from the grid (which is 220v or 230v but I calculate at 220v) will be ~4.5A.
So by that calculation, you can set your batteries anything up to 100A it will only pull at 21A on the grid side. That is, if you have enough pylontechs in the stack to handle 100A.