PierreJ

Here you are... the latest I managed to find for both old and new chip. 
From the bin file for the new chip(v2.2), it just seems they refactored some code, so no major changes from v2.1.
 
I noticed there is also support for UP5000 as well on these versions. 
 
US_C_stV2.9_NTV2.2Crc.zip
 

Hi guys, I've just uploaded BatteryView 3.0.37 in the Files section:
Use at your own risk. And do not forget to read the instructions first.
 

I'm all for energy conservation but LED lamps are relatively unreliable. I've still got some compact fluorescent lamps in my house and linear fluorescent tubes in my workshop which are over 10 years old and a few of them over 15 years. Even with with the epidemic of loadshedding followed by low voltage surges and generally appalling power quality these fluorescent lamps are still working fine.
I wish I could say the same for LED lamps but alas they're very unreliable and it's generally down to poor design, poor build quality and built-in obsolescence. You kinda expect it if you order lamps on Amazon or AliExpress but the majority of the LED lamps available over the counter from electrical wholesalers are equally as bad and they should be ashamed of themselves.
Don't get me wrong, there are well designed LED lamps with stable driver circuitry, good internal thermal management, decent power factor, good colour rendering but they're the exception rather than the rule and they're usually double if not triple the price of the rubbish options. When I was involved in relamping projects we installed hundreds of dimmable GU10 lamps in some premises and there were zero failures in the first 5 years so I know they can be reliable, it's just social, political and financial obsticles causing or allowing them to be generally unreliable.
I wish they would introduce not just electrical regs to ensure good power factor, low inrush currents and built in surge protection etc but also consumer protection legislation that it's illegal to sell LED lamps that don't last at least 3 years regardless of their usage pattern. Should any LED lamp fail within 3 years the vendor / electrical wholesaler / importer that supplied it should be financially on the hook not just for a replacement lamp but also for the item return costs and any labour costs including crane or cherry picker rental if required.
It should also be legislated that they're not allowed to dictate warranty validity on whether or not external surge protection is installed. What a load of horseshit. If the internal circuits of an LED lamp are well designed the risk of surge damage from supply instabilities can be adequately mitigated by decoupling control components and using stable power rails. Problem is when an electrical wholesaler attends the Beijing LED trade show and orders 100k of the cheapest LED lamps they can find the design they get means astronomically high failure rates and leaves them looking for any excuse they can find not to have to deal with the flood of warranty claims they get. Next thing you know there's small print somewhere on their website stating you're shit outta luck if your LED lamps only last 3 months because you didnt install 3 grands worth of class AB surge arrestors.
Anyway, apologies in advance because not sure how much of this will be tolerated by the forum bad word filters but rant over for now.

This online estimator uses the weather for previous years at your location in order to estimate yields going forward:
https://pvwatts.nrel.gov/pvwatts.php
It's the best one that I'm aware of, and it's free.

This online estimator uses the weather for previous years at your location in order to estimate yields going forward:
https://pvwatts.nrel.gov/pvwatts.php
It's the best one that I'm aware of, and it's free.

I really really tried to get off the grid, but failed. The winter weather here in the Western Cape doesn't make it financially viable.
I've got 12kWp on the roof, and 20kWh of battery capacity. There are days, sometimes multiple in a row, where my yield is in the low single digit kWh. I would need to triple my battery storage to be able to outlast such days.
So I'm grudgingly paying for my grid connection each month, even though for 8 months of the year I buy almost nothing.
 

I really really tried to get off the grid, but failed. The winter weather here in the Western Cape doesn't make it financially viable.
I've got 12kWp on the roof, and 20kWh of battery capacity. There are days, sometimes multiple in a row, where my yield is in the low single digit kWh. I would need to triple my battery storage to be able to outlast such days.
So I'm grudgingly paying for my grid connection each month, even though for 8 months of the year I buy almost nothing.
 

I really really tried to get off the grid, but failed. The winter weather here in the Western Cape doesn't make it financially viable.
I've got 12kWp on the roof, and 20kWh of battery capacity. There are days, sometimes multiple in a row, where my yield is in the low single digit kWh. I would need to triple my battery storage to be able to outlast such days.
So I'm grudgingly paying for my grid connection each month, even though for 8 months of the year I buy almost nothing.
 

"Hybrid inverter 6.5kW combined AC load & DC charge"
This is extremely devious marketing. I would not do business with them. Walk away, if you still can. 

Hi Pierre
 
Only a pleasure ... glad it is sorted
 
Regards
Dewald

After reaching out to Phylontech in China, it looks like my warranty will be honoured. Thank you to all for the feedback and insight into this issue. Below is the email reply from China. 
Hi Quintus,
 
After rechecking your case, I agree that overcharging is not the main cause of battery damage. After inspection, although the battery has been impacted by large currents, the current alone should not cause damage to the cells.
 
Sorry for the wrong judgment I gave before, I will contact Segensolar to prepare a new battery for you. Please note that when using a Victron inverter, it is best to set the charging voltage to 52.5V.
 
Best regards,
Chris

Dewald, I just wanted to say that you very much for the fan. I installed it this afternoon and everything is working perfectly again.

When I opened up the inverter case I was fully expecting to be met with a mountain of dust, so I was already armed with a blower, switch cleaner and lubricating oil. However, for an 8 year old system it was remarkably free of dust.
Unfortunately for me it looks like the issue is electrical and not mechanical. The fan turns freely, and if you flick it it spins for a while before coming to a stop (even when no power is applied), so the bearings seem intact and there is very little friction.
It's a 4-wire PWM fan, so I'm suspecting something in the driver circuit has died. I haven't opened it up yet, but perhaps there's a transistor or capacitor in there that's shot? Is this something that happens?
Thanks for the help.
 

Hi @PierreJ
I remember a lot of these issues with the batteries that were sold last year and with the batteries sold around January of this year too. Based on that I would say that your batteries might fall into the affected range too.
For US3000C with the old chip, the fix is in the firmware 2.8 and newer. For US3000C with the new chip(check my previous posts on how to recognize them based on SN), the fix is in the firmware 1.7 and newer. Should you find older FW in your (or your client's) batteries, I would advise to email Pylontech support with the SN and they will send you back the newest ZIP firmware package together with BatteryView or FlashTool. Contrary to previous BIN packages the ZIP packages are pretty safe to flash, when combined with the new BV of FlashTool.
PS: Funny thing is, that very old Pylontech batteries don't exhibit the issue, as they do not have enhanced CAN bus protocol implemented in their (ancient) firmware. Therefore, even if there is a bad voltage sample on the cell, there's no way to relay this information to the Victron GX.

@hoohloc I have sent off an email this morning motivating for a warranty replacement directly to Phylontech. I will provide feedback once I have received a reply. 

You can extend your solar day in summer by pointing some panels east and some west. In winter it is better to have all your panels pointing north. However, in summer production capacity is generally much less of a constraint than in winter, so my advice is that if you have unshaded roof space pointing north you should fill that first.
Only once you've run out of unshaded roof space pointing north should you look at adding panels pointing east or west. The exception to this may be if you're not going to be cycling your battery and the potentially excess production in the middle of a summer day is going to be completely wasted. In this scenario I would consider pointing some panels northwest and some northeast, but east and west is going to disappoint in winter.
My north facing roof is filled with panels and I also have a couple pointing west. In summer the panels pointing west extend my solar day by about an hour, but in winter they perform very poorly.

Dewald, I just wanted to say that you very much for the fan. I installed it this afternoon and everything is working perfectly again.

Hi Pierre
 
I do have a fan for you let me know if you want it.... you just have to arrange shipping, no charge for the fan...
 
Regards
Dewald

The OG7. 2 upwards has fan size of 80x80x37mm as opposed to 80x80x25mm. Also they are specified at 0.9A which much higher current. So I think you need to stick with the 5kW machine specs, ie. OG5. 48 ones. 

The fan circuit is remarkably simple:

Since the right hand fan works, and the fans are basically connected in parallel except for the sense wire, it's unlikely to be a hardware issue, unless it's a blown or corroded PCB track. But you swapped the two plugs, and if I understand correctly the right fan continued to work and the left stayed stopped, so it has to be the fan. Probably an open circuit coil or more likely failed driver electronics inside the brushless "DC" fan. It's really an AC fan with a DC driver circuit included.
It may actually be possible to repair the driver electronics, but probably better to replace the fan.
You may want to consider reversing the fan flow direction; as it is, the idling fans basically oppose the natural convection (hot air rises). Also consider a fancier, quieter fan, but make sure it moves about the same volume of air per unit time (usually measured in cave-man units that I won't utter here 🤢).
Edit: I just noticed that I left the highlight on from my search. Under the word "CN5" is the word "FAN2". Sorry about that.

Hi Pierre
 
I might have a fan for you, I will have a look later and let you know...
 
Regards
Dewald

I did in fact contact Pylontech and got an answer 2 days later. cool response time!
They say its a "firmware problem and can be fixed easily".
For that, they send me  a file with batteryview 3.0x B1.1 and a firmware (US5000_st1.4+e21.6) file for the US5000 + instructions.
ill try tonight and report if it works.
M.

That only applies to applications made from 1 October 2023. Someone at CoCT clearly didn't get the memo.

Victron has been dragging its feet getting its larger inverters NRS approved. Currently the largest Victron inverter on the approved list is 5kW, so if you've got your mind set on a Victron setup and you need more than 5kW then you need to install multiple inverters in parallel.
There are >5kW inverters on the approved list from other brands.

You can extend your solar day in summer by pointing some panels east and some west. In winter it is better to have all your panels pointing north. However, in summer production capacity is generally much less of a constraint than in winter, so my advice is that if you have unshaded roof space pointing north you should fill that first.
Only once you've run out of unshaded roof space pointing north should you look at adding panels pointing east or west. The exception to this may be if you're not going to be cycling your battery and the potentially excess production in the middle of a summer day is going to be completely wasted. In this scenario I would consider pointing some panels northwest and some northeast, but east and west is going to disappoint in winter.
My north facing roof is filled with panels and I also have a couple pointing west. In summer the panels pointing west extend my solar day by about an hour, but in winter they perform very poorly.