dvdwalt

Have uploaded my video on Slipx's card install on the Sunsynk integration, is a piece of cake for those of you who haven't done it yet. You will need to have the integration from  @Gary Waterworth installed first, so if you don't, watch that install video first. 
 

Another HexingSA 30kW 3 phase HV ESS installation to support their meter factory operations. I have installed the 1st one & based on this they requested another Installation of the same machine type. They are powering their factory operations in 30kW scaled segments. A very Impressive machine and all in 1 unit. Commercial properties & businesses need this type of scale of power urgently. We specialise in Residential solar projects but 2023 has seen such a high demand for commercial work & this energy level is one of many industrial scale solutions. In fact from 20kW all the way up to 500kW is possible. These businesses rely on production & Eskom cannot meet the demands. 

Solar Page done and working nicely. 🤩
Next on my list is to get all the battery data onto the batteries page.

Finally figured out how to do live power flow animation with live data stream.

 

For my Sunsynk5.5 Simple Local Monitoring and Graphing Solution I use a single RPi4 2gig + 1 terabyte external HDD + Official RPi4 Power-supply.
The comms between my RPi4 and the Sunsynk 5.5 inverter is done using the Sunsynk BMS RS485 port wired to a standard (RS485 to RS232 Converter) and then to a standard (RS232 to USB converter).
This comms setup gave me the most stable and fastest/reliable way to get the data from the Sunsynk.
You can still use your Solarman or Sunsynk dongle at the same time.
Credits
Shout out again to @Bloubul7 who has an awesome post going about using nodered and Sunsynk
That was the foundation for setting up my own dashboard running on a different platform for simple visualisation.
Note: This guide is not for noobs, you need at least good understanding of how to use a raspberry pi and install and run stuff on it from the command line.

After you have completed this setup guide, both Step 1 and Step 2, you will/should end up with a good starting point for Your Own Customisable Data Dashboard for your Sunsynk.



 
STEP 1
Assumptions
You already know how to install headless OS (RASPBERRY PI OS LITE (Legacy) Buster Lite works best) on your RPi4
You already know how to make sure you have configured your RPi4 so you can access the RPi4 using your wifi/ethernet and putty shell.
If the above has you confused then this guide may not be for you.
Ok, let's dive right in.
Do a fresh Install Of RASPBERRY PI OS LITE (Legacy) Buster
Now for the fun stuff.
Do not try taking shortcuts, do each line of command on its own one by one in the order posted below
Start with the following commands on your RPi4 shell.
sudo apt update sudo apt upgrade sudo apt -y install build-essential git nano wget Easy, that's the basic essentials out the way.
Now do the following:
sudo apt install openjdk-11-jdk Now check to see that it installed correctly:
java -version That should give you an output similar to this:
openjdk version "11.0.xx"
OpenJDK Runtime Environment (...)
OpenJDK 64-Bit Server VM (build ...)
Next we download thingsboard:
wget https://github.com/thingsboard/thingsboard/releases/download/v3.3.4.1/thingsboard-3.3.4.1.deb Now we install thingsboard:
sudo dpkg -i thingsboard-3.3.4.1.deb That was sooo easy
Next we install the database system to store all the data and run thingsboard on:
# import the repository signing key:
wget --quiet -O - https://www.postgresql.org/media/keys/ACCC4CF8.asc | sudo apt-key add - Now add the repository contents to your system:
RELEASE=$(lsb_release -cs) echo "deb http://apt.postgresql.org/pub/repos/apt/ ${RELEASE}"-pgdg main | sudo tee /etc/apt/sources.list.d/pgdg.list Now install and launch the postgresql service:
sudo apt update sudo apt -y install postgresql sudo service postgresql start Once PostgreSQL is installed you may want to create a new user or set the password for the the main user.
The instructions below will help to set the password for main postgresql user:
sudo su - postgres psql \password \q Then, press “Ctrl+D” to return to main user console and connect to the database to create thingsboard DB:
psql -U postgres -d postgres -h 127.0.0.1 -W CREATE DATABASE thingsboard; \q Now type the following command to get back to your root:
exit Now we can configure thingsboard:
sudo nano /etc/thingsboard/conf/thingsboard.conf Add the following lines to the the bottom of the configuration file.
Don’t forget to replace “PUT_YOUR_POSTGRESQL_PASSWORD_HERE” with your real postgres user password you created earlier.
Here you can copy all the code in one go and paste to the configuration file:
# DB Configuration export DATABASE_TS_TYPE=sql export SPRING_JPA_DATABASE_PLATFORM=org.hibernate.dialect.PostgreSQLDialect export SPRING_DRIVER_CLASS_NAME=org.postgresql.Driver export SPRING_DATASOURCE_URL=jdbc:postgresql://localhost:5432/thingsboard export SPRING_DATASOURCE_USERNAME=postgres export SPRING_DATASOURCE_PASSWORD=PUT_YOUR_POSTGRESQL_PASSWORD_HERE # Specify partitioning size for timestamp key-value storage. Allowed values: DAYS, MONTHS, YEARS, INDEFINITE. export SQL_POSTGRES_TS_KV_PARTITIONING=MONTHS # Update ThingsBoard memory usage and restrict it to 256MB in /etc/thingsboard/conf/thingsboard.conf export JAVA_OPTS="$JAVA_OPTS -Xms256M -Xmx256M" Ctrl x then choose yes to save the settings you pasted.
Once ThingsBoard service is installed and DB configuration is updated, you can now execute the following script:
# --loadDemo option will load demo data: users, devices, assets, rules, widgets.
sudo /usr/share/thingsboard/bin/install/install.sh --loadDemo Execute the following command to start ThingsBoard:
sudo service thingsboard start Perfecto, This is so easy up till now
Now let's move on to installing Nodered the easy and correct way.
Do not try cheating and using nodered install via raspberry, this way is the better way.
To Easily Install nodered run the following:
bash <(curl -sL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/node-red/linux-installers/master/deb/update-nodejs-and-nodered) NOTE: The script will ask you a couple of questions about whether you are sure you want to proceed, and whether to install Pi-specific nodes. Say “y” (yes) to both questions.
Node-RED can be extended by installing modules to give it extra features that we will need.
We need to do that now so that it can be ready for the flows we will be using later.
Some of these may already be installed, install all anyway one by one.
If you are prompted that it already exists simply continue to the next.
Use NPM to install the following nodes one at a time:
npm install node-red-contrib-batcher npm install node-red-contrib-buffer-parser npm install node-red-contrib-cycle npm install node-red-contrib-hcl-iterate-loop npm install node-red-contrib-influxdb npm install node-red-contrib-modbus npm install node-red-contrib-moment npm install node-red-contrib-play-audio npm install node-red-contrib-queue-gate npm install node-red-contrib-simple-gate npm install node-red-node-openweathermap npm install node-red-node-pi-gpio npm install node-red-node-ping npm install node-red-node-random npm install node-red-node-serialport npm install node-red-node-smooth Great another job well done
At this point Node-RED is installed, but you still need to configure it to be automatically started on boot:
sudo systemctl enable nodered.service You can start the service manually this time, but in future it will happen automatically when your Pi starts up:
sudo systemctl start nodered.service By now everything should be ready and waiting for you to start using
You will/should now be able to open the thingsboard Web UI on your pc/laptop using the following link (Replace With Your Network IP for Your RPi):
http://YOURPILOCALIPADDRESS:8080/ Default admin login info: System Administrator username: [email protected] System Administrator password: sysadmin You will/should now also be able to open the nodered Web UI on your pc/laptop using the following link (Replace With Your Network IP for Your RPi):
http://YOURPILOCALIPADDRESS:1880 If you do not know what the network IP is then use the following command on your Pi:
ifconfig That should show similar to this.
pi@yourpihostname:~ $ ifconfig
eth0: flags=4163<UP,BROADCAST,RUNNING,MULTICAST>  mtu 1500
        inet 192.168.1.253  netmask 255.255.255.0  broadcast 192.168.120.255  - THE PART IN BOLD SHOULD BE WHERE YOUR IP SHOWS
        inet6 fe80::b44e:b3e5:8e66:fd02  prefixlen 64  scopeid 0x20<link>
        ether dc:a6:32:33:a2:82  txqueuelen 1000  (Ethernet)
        RX packets 26208  bytes 5851724 (5.5 MiB)
        RX errors 0  dropped 0  overruns 0  frame 0
        TX packets 17944  bytes 4846864 (4.6 MiB)
        TX errors 0  dropped 0 overruns 0  carrier 0  collisions 0
lo: flags=73<UP,LOOPBACK,RUNNING>  mtu 65536
        inet 127.0.0.1  netmask 255.0.0.0
        inet6 ::1  prefixlen 128  scopeid 0x10<host>
        loop  txqueuelen 1000  (Local Loopback)
        RX packets 451007  bytes 74785599 (71.3 MiB)
        RX errors 0  dropped 0  overruns 0  frame 0
        TX packets 451007  bytes 74785599 (71.3 MiB)
        TX errors 0  dropped 0 overruns 0  carrier 0  collisions 0
wlan0: flags=4163<UP,BROADCAST,RUNNING,MULTICAST>  mtu 1500
        inet 192.168.2.5  netmask 255.255.255.0  broadcast 192.168.130.255  - THE PART IN BOLD SHOULD BE WHERE YOUR IP SHOWS
        inet6 fe80::966a:72cb:c7d4:c3c2  prefixlen 64  scopeid 0x20<link>
        ether dc:a6:32:33:a2:84  txqueuelen 1000  (Ethernet)
        RX packets 13381  bytes 4282322 (4.0 MiB)
        RX errors 0  dropped 0  overruns 0  frame 0
        TX packets 193  bytes 29382 (28.6 KiB)
        TX errors 0  dropped 0 overruns 0  carrier 0  collisions 0
Coming Soon....
Setup Guide Step 2 (Adding Nodered Flows and Setting Up Your 1st Dashboard)

I am going to share an installable image of my full setup using nodered and thingsboard, all you would need is a raspberry PI4 with latest firmware installed that allow for external HDD and the latest official raspberry imager and of course a reliable connection to your sunsynk inverter rs485 port.
And at least a basic understanding of how to run a rpi in headless mode
The thingsboard dashboard you can modify and change to your liking
I am going to test doing the inverter settings next, directly on the thingsboard dashboard.
Again thanks to @Bloubul7 if it was not for him I would never have know how easy it is to get data out of the sunsynk inverters

Due to the sensitivity from some members, I'm wary of saying anything positive about Hubble. 

IMHO,  think we are asking too much from the installers. These guys have to make a living and expecting them to collect the faulty battery and take it in for exchange/repairs without paying, is a bit unfair. The guy might have supplied and installed the equipment for you and you have paid for the installation and supply of the said equipment, not for endless/future call out fees. You equipment has roughly 5 years warranty, will you expect this guy to come out for free for the five years that you still have warranty? Installation guarantee is for workmanship, if there are any loose hanging cables or loose connections, trunking falling off the wall etc, then yes, he has to come out and do the repairs for free. Not take your batteries in for repairs for you for free.  
 

Hi Jacques. 
I have just had a client where I installed a Hubble AM2 for him and his battery stopped working. I'm going to take it to Hubble tomorrow to see what's wrong. 
I certainly won't charge him for removing the battery and reinstalling a new one. 
Yes it can be annoying for some but it's all part of the business. 

Hi all .Just an update on the Hubble issues you have been experiencing I have been in talks with Hubble Senior Engineer and these are some Highlights of our discussion.
1. All firmware updates and remote battery analysis can and will be done via the Cloudlink.
2. Hubble will not request you to send the batteries in for testing all testing can be done remotely if you own a Cloudlink
3. If Hubble finds that your battery is faulty they will arrange a swap out unit this will be implemented in the next few weeks.
4. If you do not own a Cloudlink then you have no choice but to send the battery to Hubble so they can test the battery and ascertain what the problem may be. 
5. Hubble Engineers are currently retraining their support staff to correctly assist clients with regards to support issues.
6. Hubble Engineers are resolving the Communications issues with Sunsynk inverters and redeveloping the software for the Cloudlink to work properly with the Sunsynk range newer models of Sunsynk inverters have different pinout configurations to the older models and the Cloudlink was setup for the older models only they have a software engineer specifically doing just that.
7. We have found that there is a problem with the BMS communication and Sunsynk inverters inadvertently causing the Sunsynk to limit battery capacity by as much as 40 % the interim solution to the problem is by simply using the AGM-V Setting on the Sunsynk for battery settings Empty Voltage 42 and 53.6V for the full voltage Float etc all the same this will unlock the lost capacity of the batteries until Hubble releases a new firmware version to resolve the problem they are aware of it and working on it.
8. Please use the Hubble support system to communicate your queries and problems the forum is not here for Hubble support problems the staff do not monitor the forum for anyone with a complaint or support issue with their products.
This information was relayed to me by the Senior Hubble engineer they are aware of the complaints of support and some problems that have come to light and are committed to resolve every issue and problems again please use the correct channels for your enquiries.  
 
 

Often the problem is with the installer and not necessarily Sunsynk. 

This is a huge debate on this forum and everyone will have their own view on the matter. For me, it makes more sense to have enough PV to power everything including the geyser. Yes an EV tube geyser is more efficient, but spending that much on a geyser that can only heat water is a waste of funds, whereas using that R30k odd to add more panels is money better spent. My reasoning is that the additional power produced can be used for anything you choose. 
Like I said, everyone is entitled to their own opinion, so feel free to disagree, feel free to give me charts on how much better a solar geyser can perform on a cloudy day. It’s all a matter of what works best for you. 
 
Personally I go for more panels to produce more power that I can use wherever I need it. 😊
Someone else can comment on the inverter/battery question….

@Scubadude, i have my geysers, washing machine, tumble dryer, dish washer, pool pump on non essentials ( between ct clamp and inverter ) and all works well, my total load so far this month is about 400 kWh and bought from grid is 20 kWh, this is with the Limit To Load NOT ticked, that is 95% self consumption.
Think we should leave it as the difference between Deye and Sunsynk and I don't profess to know anything about Deye

Ok, time for an update.
10 x JA 540W panels are installed! Pictured is the west side. East is the same setup. Requested a quote on some additional panels, so the installer did not trim the rails on the left hand side.
Most of the wiring is complete. The sprag was incorrectly supplied at 32mm and not 20mm, so the sprag needs to be changed in the trunking and run all the way to the invertor. I have ordered an additional battery for commissioning in the new year. The isolators will move the above the trunking to make space for the third battery.
Will post my thoughts on the whole solar experience in a separate thread.

Hello everyone,
New homeowner here, which inadvertently made me the new owner of a massive solar installation as well (well, massive in my opinion).
We really bought our property for the peaceful backyard, and also for all the extra's the omie added over the years because he could 🙂  This includes, the solar array generation plant!
After I have started reading into solar, this whole world quickly blew up into a VERY complicated maze to navigate with so many nuances. So I did what any other person would, started Googling and trying to understand as far as possible. I am not a technical guy, but my job lends me to understand difficult concepts that I am unfamiliar with - so I'm taking this as a challenge.
Loadshedding, funny enough, isn't a big deal (during COVID) in our neighbourhood due to us being close to a testing site which means we haven't had any the last year. That being said, with the state of my battery bank, I really don't know how long it would last me until SOC is achieved? I would ensure geyser + all major loads will be pulled from the equation if that ever happens (really just evenings as PV is strong and I operate off-grid in the day).
My aim:
Stabilisation of settings on inverters Getting the most out of my PV panels Not a lot that can be done here. Just hosed and wiped them down recently for the dirt layer. Removed 2 palms that was causing lots of shade on two major sets of panels 9am in the morning! Not sure why the omie didn't remove them after spending so much money 😕  Preventing further deterioration of the bad battery bank (EXPENSIVE to just throw money on it currently) Implementing a way to monitor my installation wirelessly (I like tech, and I like comfort in stead of walking to my garage every couple of hours). From what I can gather, a RsbPi + the ICC software will do the trick? Is this expensive?  
So what does this little installation have to offer on a 200sqm house? Let me oblige:
3 x RCT (Axpert) MKS-MKS+ 1-5KVA (15 kW) "hybrid" inverters, with two spares! 40 x Shoto 100AH battery bank -- already 3/4 years old and already giving issues (more on this below) 36 x (yes you read right) ILB HELIOS 255W solar panels On current readings, around 12:30 I get from the best placed sets (2 x 12 panels) 2.1kW and 1.9kW respectively. The other set around 1.6kW. So power throughout the day if properly managed, is totally off-grid.  
My wife, myself and the little guy depending on our wellfare are people that don't consume energy indulgently. Some house background to give context:
All lights fitted with LED 3w/5w My dad helped recently install a nifty new CBI Wifi timer on the geyser so that we can shift the load on our very normal 3kw 200L geyser. Heats up fully between 10 and 12 and then a top-up at 14:30....that's it! Working like a charm. Basic fibre, router and access point tech running 24/7.  Cooking (oven and ceramic top) only used really from 4-6pm. Kettle throughout the day. Alarm and electric fence running 24/7 Built in fridge and freezer that are 10-15 years old, so they are more power hungry (planning on ripping them out and using my more efficient Defy's) Dishwasher, washing machine and dryer is used throughout the day, preferably not in unison and not while the geyser is on. Load management 🙂 Borehole + pressure pump that only operates for the garden when irrigation system is on (planning to change this so that the house can use the water as well). Inverter settings rundown - firmware 72.4:
1 SOL 13 54V 2 70A 16 OSO 3 APL 23 byd 4 SdS 25 FdS 5 AGn 26 56,4V 6 Lf(?)E 27 54V 7 tfE 28 PAL 9 50Hz 29 42V 11 30A 30 ONE 12 46V 31 SbE Batteries:
Currently no fancy BMS and yes, I do know this is vital to prevent the current situation of how the battery bank looks. Relying solely on manual voltage readings which already have produced worrying results. I did a reading 5am in the morning when they were discharged to their managed SOC % to get an idea of the struggling ones:
There are 10 batteries below 11V readings (10.xx V all of them) There are 2 batteries between 11-12V Last battery in the bank is 8.46V! > My dad, with more knowledge than me on anything electrical, suggested we use a battery charger on the struggling batteries first to bring the bank more into unison, voltage wise. Acknowledged that there are definitive bad eggs which is influencing the whole bank which we might need to pull out, 4 at a time.
> Will be applying the manual approach for now to identify those which we need to remove. That is the approach currently, which we know isn't the ideal one. Any better ideas?
> Acknowledged, the best thing in the future will be to replace this whole bank with Lithium sets that have proper BMS in place. Just no there with finances, unfortunately.
 
In conclusion:
My needs are simple and currently being fulfilled by this massive installation, especially throughout the day. That being said, I would really like to preserve and ensure longevity on this due to the fact that so much money has been spent on this. That being said, I do not plan on investing massive amounts of money currently on this system (just bough a house, remember).
I tend to type books, so for those that made it to here, thank you and I do appreciate your time and knowledge!

I encounter some really bad installations  ... not only solar/inverters ... also fires which resulted from bad electrical practice.
I was called out to a site where an installer had left out a few things (like lightning protection) and not installed the wiring as per code.
My first reaction was to go all out and drop him in the shyte ... properly ... with reports ... photos and all the stuff we do when we encounter these installations.
But instead  I changed my approach ... rather than go balls to wall to drop him in the shyte ... I arranged a meeting with the installer and the customer ... I pointed out the code violations and the installer responded in a positive manner ... I told him I was there to investigate his installation ... we discussed how he would make it right ... not only has he fixed the problems ... but has also since gone for more training ... in fact I am so impressed with the manner in which he has handled the problem ... we are discussing a few new installation i want him to do for me.  
My point ... maybe we should change the manner in which we address these issues ... and rather focus on education ... I am a master electrician ... I work on everything from domestic to large industrial installations and hospitals etc ... I am learning new things every day.
I believe this industry has a long  way to go before we will all understand how it works and even then it will change as technology improves.
If the installers doesnt feel he needs to sort it out ... then go the whole report ... photos and name and shame. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Busy with a 3 phase installation with 3 x 5kw Sunsynk and 3 Hubble’s. 
 
Will post pictures when it’s complete. 

Got the sign-off from CoCT about a month ago, so my DIY solar project is finally done and dusted. Thanks to everyone on the forum that provided advice - I probably would have stuffed it up if it wasn't for you.
The whole project took about three months of evenings and weekends to finish, and was a welcome distraction from the current state of the world.
 

4 strings of 4 Canadian Solar 400Wp poly panels in series, facing NNE.
 

Another string of 4 Canadian Solar 400Wp panels in series, facing WNW.
All five strings are paralleled together for a combined 8kWp.
 

This is my main DB. CoCT installed a new split prepaid meter. According to the technician that installed it it has built-in reverse power blocking. I have tested it to see what it does when I try to feed in power in to the grid, and it charges me in both directions. That is perfectly fine in my opinion - much preferable to it tripping when there is momentary feed-in.
Grid power is measured by an ET112. There is a breaker that connects the main DB to the solar installation in the scullery:

Top-left is the AC DB. Top-right is the DC combiner box. Bottom left is the Multiplus II 5kVA inverter, and bottom middle the SmartSolar 250/100 MPPT. The SmartSolar was initially running a bit hot for my liking, so I mounted it on a 6mm thick aluminium plate which brought down peak temperatures from 82C to 65C. Bottom-right is the Victron Cerbo. The battery cabinet on the floor contains 5 PylonTech US2000 batteries for a total nominal capacity of 12kWh. I've set it to 80% DoD:
 
 

Close-up of the DC buses.
 

Close-up of the AC DB, with and without cover.
 


Close-up of the DC combiner box, with and without cover.
The geyser and oven, as well as the swimming pool DB are connected to the main DB, so those are unpowered when there is loadshedding. The AC DB in the scullery is connected to the output of the Multiplus, so all the essential loads stay powered when grid power goes down.
 

I had a system like that in my previous home. Works very well for a solar geyser for 4 people with a 150L tank. In summer the temp could go to 80deg, while in winter it was more around the 50 deg avg.
Normal solar stuff. If someone showered in the evening the water is cold in the morning, so your element needs to heat up the water.
We saved about 40% of the electricity bill with this upgrade compared to the normal geyser.
The GeyserWise is a great controller.
If you take the slightly more expensive option that has the 12V pump with a solar panel for circulation it is worth it with the loadshedding we do have.

Now I have a heat pump. Saving are the same but no more cold water in the mornings  

OOooooo yes. I forgot to add photos. Over the lockdown time I got my second setup up and running. My second BMS I order got stuck with the lockdown "it's still stuck in at JHB HUB", so I ordered a 3de one via Courier with a friend in lockdown level 4. My first lifepo4 setup is running 200 days know and the second one 40days, no problems. Planning to add 3de setup when I can get my hands on that BMS that is stuck in JHB. 

Hello fellow green energy enthusiasts,
For the past 8 months I have been working on building a calculator which handles majority of the general factors that are taken into account when investing in solar for the home, and working out returns of said investment based on your use case.
The purpose for undertaking this project was merely to raise awareness to South African's about the benefits to investing in solar power, at least from a financial gain standpoint.
I have found quite a few of these international calculators, but none that accurately depicted the financial benefits (or already contained the various rates and tariffs involved) for a South African interested in solar for their home.
So I decided to build a Solar Investment Calculator for South Africans that will remain free for all to use. No ads, no logins, no commitments. The purpose of the tool is purely to help any potential green energy enthusiast make that leap over solar, even if its just for financial gain.
So the calculator generates 2 savings models (per kit, for a range of solar kits available online). 1 model for paying in cash, and another for taking out a loan (where you can define the loan rate and payback period). This shows users that there is financial gain investing in solar power even if you require financing for it.
Now to the point of this post. I'm steering clear of giving the impression that I am trying to promote the site here, but I was hoping to get an experts opinion (if there are any with a few minutes to spare, please let me know) on the work I have pushed out thus far, it's been 100s of hours and I'd like to know if I am headed in the right direction. I have also included some information about how the calculator handles some of the inputs given by users. Any feedback from any user is welcome, my intention is to make this the best it can be, to provide any South African with a fantastic service that will never cost them a cent. And of course, in the long term, pushing for a greener economy.
URL intentionally left out to avoid breaking any forum rules. (I will edit in the URL if forum admins allow me to do so).
Thanks for taking the time to read this.

(Raises hand)
To both: remembering 10base2 and getting old 🧑‍🦽 😮
Edit:
And 300Ω ribbon and splitters for analogue TV, and the valve tuners that they connected to, usually with a 6BL8 valve (and one other).

I know this is an old thread, but I did go ahead and buy a 20.5Kwh battery from YIYEN before xmas and it finally arrived. I'm very pleased with my purchase so far: YIYEN was great at communication, they followed-up nicely, the battery arrived VERY WELL crated/packaged and it looks rock-solid and like a very good quality product.
I wish I had known more about what was involved with sea freight coming into Canada and all the fees, charges, duties, taxes, dock fees, wharehouse fees, etc. etc. Definitely not as simple as ordering from Amazon lol. but all is good now... Some pics attached.
 

I'm also a big fan of home assistant.
This is my dashboard for my Axpert MKS II. I have a raspberry pi connected to it with bidirectional MQTT to my home assistant server.
The server used to be just a pi 3 but it started getting a bit sluggish with all the data points. I've since migrated to an old 4th gen i3 with a cheap SSD
 

 
I've done some other stuff as well if you guys are interested to see. 
 
Also have 3d animations working but still working on a full detailed rendering of the house before I integrate it fully.
 
 
 

I love my Home Assistant install (running on an old laptop with docker)  and have it linked to my Victron setup via colour GX - automations linked to solar are simple at the moment related to when I have excess solar - like linking battery and solar status to geysor status (turns on in day if battery is full).
But once grid tied (hopefully in 2 weeks time) I internd to use it to controll the charge cycles from the grid to minimise/eliminate municipal bill (in PE you can use the grid like a big battery as long as you consume in same time of use period as credit is generated). Battery will get me though the Peak periods in evening and morining. Intend to have a toggle for when there is loadshedding which will make sure the battery keeps about a certain percentage - have thought of pulling in the schedule but not sure I have the skills for that   
Here is a snap shot of live info on my dashboard at about 12:00noon (3kw is being wasted as it has no where to go)  - at moment Geyser and dehumidifier are on because of following conditions, Grid setpoint is 200W:
a) Battery > 95%
b) Family is in town (device tracking)
c) Daylight hours