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Sidewinder

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Everything posted by Sidewinder

  1. @Steve87, "Long days on a site especially when its been 30++ degrees unusually so for this time of year. " refers..... I feel your "pain". I recently installed 10 x 400W PV, all in one day, and despite drinking copious amount of water, getting up at 5am the next morning for my daily run was torture! Took me a day to recover from all that. @Stephan van Tonder, I'm intrigued to see you are charging you battery from the grid. That's something I've never managed to achieve in 3.5 years. But yes, horses for courses, I have enough PV and (almost) enough batteries
  2. @Chris_S, After the F/W upgrade and remote reboot, the S portion of F/W version didn't display. Didn't bother me, till I started testing other data functions, and after a few hours of fiddling, decided to give the inverter a cold boot, and that produced the complete F/W version, etc.
  3. @anthonyhugo, I'm sure those Batteries will out supply the inverter. So nothing to worry about there. You need to just be aware that the 8kW is only applicable when there's another source of energy, e.g. Solar. So at night, with Load shedding, you will only be able to draw +- 6.5kw (Mine trips at 128A from the battery). It looks like your CT coil is in the right place, it should be before your non-essential load as seen from the grid side. Test it. Switch on the pump, and observe the PV production, your PV production should rise by an additional 4kW. If not enough PV, the balance will be drawn from Battery/Grid, depending on you settings
  4. Hi @Muttley, My rule of thumb for normal usage is 20A per 5kwh battery. The reason for this I believe is longevity. It's the same with electronics, they don't like heat, so the cooler things run at, the longer they should last. Yes, if your circumstances dictates/requires faster charging, then increase the charging rate, but I would want to manage that carefully, and over a period of time, determine the optimum charge rate. It's unnecessary to fast charge these batteries, if you don't have a reason to do so. Under normal circumstances, you have all day to get those batts full again, and if it is overcast, it won't recharge the batts faster (low PV), and your day loads dependent. PS, in over 3 years, I have newer used Grid to charge batteries. Whole house is on Essentials. I do have max PV.
  5. Hi @onobeka, I notice on your SA reports the "Max Charge & Discharge" rate is reported as 100A both ways.! Just want to check, is that an actual measured number, of something you have configured on your inverter. I use SA as well, and mine doesn't show those values (both latest s/w and beta versions are the latest on my systems. Maybe just for Pylontech, as I have different batteries. Not sure why SA doesn't display those (incl Battery firmware version), as I'm sure it all get's transmitted to SA (just guessing) If those values are measured, then I recon you are stressing those batts too much. My rule of thumb is 20A charge per 5 kWh battery, and the pack should discharge at the max that the inverter can handle when in Loadshed mode. I hope that 140 mV is not too big a delta to worry about, and hopefully is not an indication of a cell breaking down prem. Just monitor regularly, even with Battery View, and then you'll know exactly which cell it giving problems, and try and replace that cell (before is expires!)
  6. Sunsynk 8kW From SW Ver.:M 6.0.0.5 / S ? / C E.4.1.9 (This upgrade was done in Nov 2020, after installation) To initially SW Ver.:M 6.0.2.5 / S ? / C E.4.1.9 To finally SW Ver.:M 6.0.2.5 / S 0.7.1.7 / C E.4.3.7 Done on 2024-02-28 @ 15h15 within 5 mins of requesting. Power went down for about 30 seconds. Inverter was not functioning 100% after their reset, only once I switched it off and on later, did all services work.
  7. Hi @Moffat, Have a look at the battery docs https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Hqrmk_6DjXvsUePtyJZzqqBO182eQwJK/view?pli=1 They clearly specify it does work (comms wise) with Sunsynk, so no problems there. Same doc also specifies the charging voltage nl. 56V. Just use those setting on the Sunsynk, and it should be OK. PS, don't have this battery, but price wise, I would go for it if I had to buy 10kW, nice wall mount architecture, overall a much better looking battery than the standard rack mount batteries out there. From a warranty perspective, surely that lies with @Powerforum Store, IIRC.
  8. @Morena, I would also suggest go the the Sunsynk website, there is a list of who is registered in South Africa to install their product. But even so, get references, as you get installers, and then you get installers- certified, but don't really know/understand all the modern Hybrid stuff, like settings/battery comms etc. Good sparkies, though. When you after the first week of missing loadshedding, you wake up to a Low DC voltage alarm and no power :-(
  9. @Deon Zeelie A year and 2 days too late...I'm sure you got it right by now! For completeness, after confirmation that the trail license is working ok, one needs to go to https://solar-assistant.io/sites, click "Edit" and then "Swap License". No the SA software will not be embedded. I really think SA could have put in a option in this SW version to copy it from SD to Memory. Not difficult to do, if one had access to a terminal. Maybe someone with above average linux skills could experiment and see if this is possible. I' would assume that if you had made a backup of your data, the history would be OK, but i think the backup feature only became availabe on SW version date 2023-08-16. PS all, I have a spare Orange Pi 3 LTS and SA on SD card available. PM me if you are in Centurion area.
  10. @Zweli, Please post the battery voltage (or at least what the charging voltage was set on the Deye) when at 99% reported. The AM-2's are another breed of batteries, hence you need to follow manufacturer's spec's to the tee.
  11. @Lee2 It very much depends on what you want to achieve. Thing to take into concideration is: How many panels will fit into the red space. If 5 panels will fit, AND it is in the "sweetspot" Voltage range of your chosen Inverter model & PV panels, then any place north is always the best place. You might suffer from a bit of shading in the early morning due to the roof to the right (looking from above), as that is where the sun will appear. Ditto in the late afternoons, you may loose the sun fairly quickly. Assumptions: - your inverter has 2 x MPPT's - X = DB, is in the Garage, so Inverter also goes there. - there are no tall trees to the right and especially to the left of the property. I would, budget dependant, put an as long as possible string 1 on the east side of the long roof - will give you nice early morning production & an as long as possible string 2 on the west side of the long roof - will give you nice late afternoon production.
  12. @Kingsway, This is the screen you need to look at. If any of the CT values are red, it indicated, as in this case, 2 of the CT coils were in the wrong direction. One wonders how so-called professional installers get accredited when they make such rooky mistakes. (and get paid for it)
  13. @Kingsway, I picked up an error like this on a family member's fresh 3ph 12kW Deye installation, and had taken screenshots of the pre-paid meter every morning after the installation, and he was using many units. I realised that the Inverter was "trying" to export, simular to yours. which it shouldn't do, as the prepaid meter will trip. But those fedback units does make your pre-paid meter run faster - in the wrong direction - hence your elevated top-up. After many phone calls, got the installer to swop one of the CT coils (just swopped the wires around) and that sorted it out. For those with non-essencials connected, you may as well check if those take power from solar when the grid is available, else the position (as appossed to the orientation) of the CT coil/s are also incorrect. A common mistake if the DB for the incoming grid feed is not near your inverter DB.
  14. @BigotedUncle I think the best method it to just use your Axpert as a micro inverter, and connect it to the SS Aux port, and define it as a GEN (i.e. input port). Just note that this port has a limit (2 -3 kW at best). The Axpert should have it's own PV, and pref it's own battery as well, but using a single battery source may also work (if anybody has tried this before, please chip in). The battery stats may just be way off.
  15. Another way of looking at this, could be to see if the prevailing wind direction over your property is across the panels. i.e the wind/breeze can enter that gap between the roof and the PV panel. If not, then increase the height to improve circulation.
  16. Yes, less space = less chance of the Cape Dr. to take your panels! The down side of less space is poor ventilation, and poor ventilation = rising temps of the PV. High PV temps = lower PV production. So it's a tradeoff. If you can get the gap as high as possible, within the limit of the equipment you have/going to use, then just make sure it is over engineered. e.g. adding additional/(M12 vs M10) hanger brackets. Saving a few 100 R's is just not worth it, especially down in WC region.
  17. @Ben Harper In case you don't have it, here is the complete installation manual for the hanger bolt. If you need a bigger one, Segensolar do sell a M12 version. Alternative would be to look for an equivalent on the KD solar range. Renusol Hanger bolt manual.pdf
  18. The T-bolt should be part of the hanger bolt. As mentioned, if it is a Renusol part, then yes. I've used the Eco roof brackets on my (latest) install, and they came prepopulated with the T-bolt. If not, then Roberto is your answer. I've also bought many inverters from him before. Many years ago I did my own installation. Simular situation as you, as i couldn't locate the trusses. So i removed the screws (luckily they were hexnuts) where the roof sheets were fastened to the purlins. I replaced them with new longer screws. As you can see from my markings in yellow, my screw spacing was much tighter. (For obvious wind reasons). The mistake I did was not to use a hanger bolt, as that would have given me a greater height of the pv panel to the roof, for better ventilation. If I was you, I would get the longest hanger brackets and try and mount the mounting rail as high as possible (to increase the gap between roof and PV) ,
  19. This does not make sense... The rail has a goove on the side where the horizontal bolt can slide/fit into and then gets tightened. Also the hanger bolt spacing will be dependant on your truss spacing (normally 700mm), please don't bolt the hanger bolt into brandering etc, unless you want to collect your broken panels some distance away, special when the Cape Doctor comes and visits, even when you don't live in CTN. Just my thoughts..
  20. Hi @StepbyStep It's a year+ later, tell us, did you manage to upgrade your old battery? I'm in the same boat, I (also have access to) 3 x AM2's Master - HL2202* F/W - P13S120A-12290-1.50 Shown as 100Ah Slave 1 - HL2106* F/W - P13S120A-12290-1.50 Shown as 50Ah Slave 2 - HLD2209* F/W - P13S100A-12290-4.50 Shown as 100Ah When I try to upgrade Slave 1 (to 2.05), I get the BIN file error. (The assumption here is that the BMS is an older version, and V2.05 is not campatible with it) Can you or anyone else please share 1.46, so I can try and fix the 1/2 capacity battery. Or 1.50/4.50/any other versions, seeing the other 2 batteries are fine with those versions, BMS dependant. Have e-mailed Hubble support twice, first time they closed the ticket without sending the file, the 2nd time, no response.
  21. @spittingfire, I'm sure your problem will be solved after battery replacement. The reason I say this, is I had a good look at the battery serial no.s The one is MSP15S200W221024043 & the other new one is MSP16S200W230227005 The bold part is a dead giveaway why your batteries were behaving badly. Glad you got sorted.
  22. @spittingfire Just for the sake of clarity, please describe your method of "resetting" the battery? Maybe not of significance to your problem, but from this pic from their www, it seems these are 15S type batteries, hence your Deye must also be configured accordingly. Also, I see they have an app for the battery, why don't you get it (only Android) and at least you can observe what is hoing on. Pity it only connects to a single battery. Weird. In the mean time you can try and do the following as well: 1) run the system with 1 x old battery, and the next day with 1 x new battery, as to get both batteries to equal voltage, and then connect both in parallel. 2) Also try and change the master battery. i.e. make new battery the master and the old one the slave. 3) Do a full reset on your Deye, i.e. battery & PV off, switch off Deye and restart Deye again. I've seen weird problems disappear after Inverter reset, even though the problem does not seem related.
  23. @spittingfire, Your Li-BMS picture seems very odd. Shows the following: 1) Battery Voltage = 0.00V 2) Your battery type = Pylon(tech) No. 2) could be that the Meritsum CAN proctol is simular to Pylontech batteries, but I wouldn't bet on it. Because you are receiving some seemingly correct values e.g Battery Current and Temp, do these match what the inverter is doing /telling from the main data screen? Sorry, I have a SS, so Deye screens are slightly different.
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