Sidewinder

@Freek Eek , The 20W draw is not continuous, but varies in duration, depending on the time of day (or night, to be precise). Refer to my grid graph, you will clearly see that when Solar is not present, the inverter almost continuously draws 20W. During daytime, it rarely draws this, but still does it very infrequently. Hope this helps. All these draws per day don't even register as 0.1 of a kWh, which is the smallest fraction my system can record. In my mind, another reason for this draw, is to keep the inverter synced to the grid, because our ZA grid is definitely not @ 50Hz. Far from it.

Sorry to butt in like this, but the Topic of this Thread is somewhat misleading (for my ADHD !). In my vocabulary, SOLAR POWER CABLES typically = PV , so SOLAR Cables are DC, thus no Changing EMF, as per AC counterpart. Feel free to correct me if DC EMF is a thing, also learning! So it would be OK in my book to run Ethernet next to your Solar Cables. As per replies, NOT OK to run Ethernet next to any AC cables, not for long distances, else use metal Spragg. If you have to, due to conduit shortage, then use STP cable to minimise possible interference.

@10tpeg , My view/theory is what you are describing is normal inverter behaviour. Refer to my usage pattern below, when adding a big load to your system. Just before 8, I switched the kettle on. The inverter supplies the load, but despite having some powerful processor, the Solar production is not instantaneous. It takes a few seconds to ramp up solar production, thus it takes the shortfall from grid, but just for a few seconds (couple of seconds - my monitoring system has a 4 seconds update frequency). At 8, I add more load (warming milk in the Microwave). When the kettle load drops (@8h02), the solar panels don't stop producing energy, but because the load had dropped, the energy has to go somewhere. That somewhere is again the grid. The graph clearly indicates this behaviour. For the life of me I can't think why inverters can't pull/push this energy from/to the battery. Above my pay grade! Not to long ago, when solar started getting popular, prepaid meters could not handle these "feedbacks", and tripped, and you had to get the Municipality to come and reset the meter. You seem to be very lucky that your particular pre-paid meter does "self reset". Nevertheless, still a bit of a nuisance. You could attempt to get your Municipality to replace your meter with a more tolerant one. Maybe also try and check your system if my theory is 100% correct, as I suspect that this will only occur when you drop a big load, like a kettle or geyser. Maybe play around with the timing of that, so see if my theory holds. The Landis Gyr + models of pre-paid meters seem to be very tolerable to feedback.

@ChrisVTonder , Can you post a pic of the comms ports.?

Kuodos to Esener. It's the first Battery Spec that I've seen that actually specifies what BMS is inside the Battery.!

@deonholt , I must admit, it's been 5 years since I last used a Voltronics based inverter, but from memory, the "priority" setting for what you want your system to do is "SBU" Solar, then Battery, and Utility lastly. Then look at the "Switch to Utility/Grid"(when battery goes flat), as well as "Switch to Battery"(when battery is charged again) voltage setting for the battery. This may depend on the chemistry (NMC/LiPoFe)/composition(13-16cells) Try and setup your inverter for SBU. Maybe tell the forum your exact model of inverter, (photo of the label on the side of the inverter) so that those with more/better knowledge/experience can advise.

Before you get up on the roof, just take a multimeter and measure the DC voltage at the PV disconnect/Inverter

Rather avoid using that "installer". It's a easy fix, but can be a schlepp, depending how and where the PV is installed.

@JeremyJvR , Your neighbour can be very lucky he hasn't seen any smoke signals.! 4S2P PV configuration with 560W surely is a recipe for disaster. The typical Voc for a 560W panel is going to be around 50V. So 200V for the string. Way above the Voc Max of 145V, as can be seen on the label of the inverter. Even at Vmp (normal operating voltage) of +-42V, 4S2 will give a good 164V @ 26A, enough to fry that MPPT. I surprised to see it didn't happen a long time ago. (when panels were upgraded). The old panels from 5 years ago would most likely have been sub 300W panels, and the inverter would have been OK with that. @Coulomb 's recommendation is always 2S max on these low voltage models when using these larger panels. Then parallel as many to stay within the current (or Wattage) spec of the MPPT.

@AppleJack , Seems your inverter's MPPT spec is 120 - 385 Volts. That means the max amount of panels (for optimum operation) = 385V/49V = 7.85 = 8 panels. As your inverter's maximum PV input is 480V, that would allow sufficient cover for extra cold mornings (less than 0 deg C). Some Inverter manufacturers specify/prefer that the PV source be "balanced" between the MPPT's, if so with yours, then split 4 + 4. Personally I would go for a 1 x 8 setup, seeing that 8 x 555 = 4440W, only 10% above the rated capacity of the MPPT, which should cater well for all the losses etc. in the string. Then you can plan your 2nd string at your leisure. In theory, a 1 x 8 string will also "wake up" earlier in the morning, as it gets to the 100V MPPT threshold quicker that a 1 x 4 setup, but I think that much of a muchness.

@sarzyk , Yes, Pylon protocol is what most batteries use. One needs to enable this on the RS485 side, because it is (mostly) disabled by default on most BMS's.

@sarzyk , Would be good to know what BMS board this battery has inside. Have your tried using PBMSTools.? (for PACE BMS mostly)

@sarzyk , From what I can read up about your battery, and other similar one's, I think you need a RS232 to USB cable to the RJ11 port in order to use the UIWare software. Typically one would then use the "Config" option to set up the communications protocol for the RS485 port. Once you write this to the BMS, you can use the RS485 feature. Assumption here is that you use "CAN" for Inverter comms, and RS485 for inter battery comms. Also, as your battery seems to have a combo CAN & RS485 port, you may need a "port splitter" or special RS485 cable to get this to work. Haven't tested this myself, as I prefer batteries that come with 5 ports, so standard Ethernet cables work out the box. The manual, in case you haven't used it. https://voltaswiss.ch/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/VT-48200B-instructions.pdf

Olá @manviseu , Obrigado por informar ao fórum que seu problema foi resolvido. Já experimentei esse parâmetro no passado, usando 10, 20 e até 50 (para garantir que realmente uso alguma energia da rede), mas observe que tenho um Sunsynk, então os resultados podem variar no Deye. Durante o breve período em que usei SA no meu sistema, não notei esse tipo de comportamento. Agora sou um campista HA feliz!! Hallo @manviseu , Thank you for letting the forum know your problem is solved. I have experimented with that parameter in the past, using 10,20, even 50 (to ensure I actually use some Grid power), but note, I do have a Sunsynk, so results may vary on the Deye. For the brief period I used SA on my system, didn't notice this type of behaviour. Now a happy HA camper!!

Bom dia, Acredito que o que você está vendo seja um comportamento normal. Especialmente em um sistema baseado em voltagem (ou seja, sem comunicação entre a bateria e o inversor). Pouco antes das 7h, a bateria está com voltagem muito baixa (configuração do inversor) e, portanto, desliga. Assim que a energia solar estiver disponível, o inversor reiniciará, começará a carregar a bateria e a energia (carga) será restaurada. Solução: 1) Defina um corte de baixa voltagem mais baixo no inversor. Observação: não é bom se suas baterias não forem de lítio, como chumbo-ácido ou gel, pois elas não gostam de % de SOC abaixo de 50% e serão danificadas se isso acontecer. 2) Aumente o tamanho da bateria para que a voltagem seja mantida até o nascer do sol acima da configuração de baixa voltagem no inversor. A situação acima piora durante o inverno, pois há menos sol/mais escuridão, já que estamos entrando no outono/inverno em Portugal. For the SAffers! Good Morning, I believe what you are seeing is normal behaviour. Especially on a voltage based system (i.e. no comms between Battery & Inverter). At time just before 07:00, the battery has too low voltage (setting on the inverter), and it therefore switches off. As soon as Solar becomes available, the inverter will restart, start to charge the battery, and power (load) will restore. Solution: 1) Set low voltage cut-off lower on inverter - Note: not good if your batteries are not Lithium based, like Lead-acid or Gel, they do not like SOC % below 50%, and will be ruined if so. 2) Increase the size of the battery, so that the voltage is maintained till sunrise above the low voltage setting on inverter. The above does worsen during the winter period, as there is less sun/more darkness, as you are now going into autumn/winter in Portugal.

Rather not😱!

@Niel Kotze , I would definitely NOT remove any of your existing PV to feed the Geysertech, as you seem to be low of PV capabilities for a 2 x 5kw installation. Best is to add 3-4 panels, roof space, preferably north, separate from your Inverter's PV. Go East if you need warm water in the morning, or West, for late afternoon. Whatever PV you add to the Geysertech, make sure the current it can deliver is below 14A. You might be marginal on those 550's, just check.

@Gavin Heron , It will be useful if you can supply a bit more info on your system, like Inverter & Battery, make and model, as well as how your system is configured, as it may help pinpointing a resource that has come across this scenario before.

@alberth , What I would do in the mean time, is just to run the Inverter & Batteries in Voltage mode - i.e. not Lithium, remove the comms cable, and set the inverter battery charge voltages, etc. to suit your 15S battery. Top prize would not only be to upgrade all 3 batteries' BMS's, but also to upgrade to 16S architecture, if the battery case can accommodate another cell.

@alberth , Best bet would be to start with Andy's Off Grid Garage youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5URxJtiHSAw On his www page: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1E7zX6uXqczvpEEJKD8jER31LWkNqWMgvUytVCVfMvlg/edit?usp=sharing is a spreadsheet to make it easier to decided which BMS to use, depending on you specific use case. Good luck with your project.

@Krokkedil , I'm with @MdF on this. Re-use what you got for a smaller price than a replacement battery. AFAIK, the LBSA batteries use a PACE BMS, the same as the AM-2's, so as a bonus you can always add the refurb LBSA's to your AM-2 stack, if required. Get yourself a USB to RS232 cable, use BMSTools on the PC, and you should be able to spot which is which. + then you will be able to setup your batteries properly, as the default config on the PACE's needs minor adjustments in any case, specially around the Temp alarms, as we are nowhere near the Sahara or Antarctica!.

@WelshDragon80 , I suggest you go and check out Heinz's HA solution for Sunsynk/Deye for Octupus Flux (& other European Power Utilities). Works brilliant. His dongle (installed @ inverter) converts/connects via Wifi to your RPi/PC, so no long cable runs to install. https://smarthomeintegrations.co.za/ https://www.youtube.com/@SmartHomeIntegrations/videos Also https://github.com/tomatensaus/DeyeSolarDesktop

@DieLem , Hope I got this right....2 x 3 portrait mode mounted vertically. So your rail length is going to be ( All in mm): 50 (start piece)+20 (end clamp)+2278 (pv1 height)+ 20 (middleclamp)+ 2278 (pv2 height) + 20 (middle clamp) + 2278 (pv3 height) + 20mm (end Clamp + 50 (end piece) = 7014 mm !! So you are going to be very short on rails and roof hooks. PS, secure the end caps with a bit of silicon, else dust/grime/spiderwebs etc will happen. Maybe also something to take into consideration: Rail come in 2 sizes: 41 x 35 and 50 x 47. If you are in a windy/hot area, go for the bigger size, as it raises the PV by 10mm from the roof. 10% better airflow. Lower temps. Also, when fixing the rail to the roof hook, move it as high as possible (should be adjustable) to gain another 10mm.

@DieLem , It gonna depend on how you are planning to install all 6 your panels. If all 6 in one row, you are shorting inter rail connectors (2 off) & 10 middle clamps +4 End rail caps If 2 x 3 installation, then you need 8 end clamps & 8 middle clamps + 8 End rail caps

No, I'm using the standard SA RS232 - USB cable to my pi with HA. MQTT + Tersius's Integration.