HendrikBigChief

Well, Pylontech buys these cells from some Chinese manufacturer or two or three. The manufacturer gives a guarantee for the cells, but it is probably just made up, thumb suck. Pylontech then puts a thumb suck guarantee on their batteries, hoping for the best. They also know they cannot put a short guarantee as their batteries won't sell, so they put an inflated 10 year guarantee to compete with other battery manufacturers that thumb suck as well. Now after all this thumb sucking the thumb is no longer in good condition. If things go wrong, which most likely it will, they will just insist that the customer is at fault, stuff like like overvoltage, bad battery temp, overcharging, undercharging, etc, whatever they can thumb suck to get out of a claim.

So for best health, you want to charge at max 0.2C (1C = 200amps), so 0.2C = 40amps. However as many have said here, charging up to 100A should be ok. If you want to improve the lifespan of your batteries even further you could also lower the charging voltage. They will take longer to fully charge, but lifespan will increase.

Crying in Capetonian @ R3.91/kWh, and R4.75/kWh after the first 600kWh

Luckily I only bought 800kWh in the last 12 months.

It is possible that 100% indicates cell balancing, but not sure. My money would be on slight noise on the voltage line. I also have the AM-5, and I don't see the 99 to 100% cycling that you see. Mine is solid on 100%.

The SOH is calculated using an algorithm on the BMS. I would reconnect the batteries and ensure both fully charge and possibly go through a discharge and charge cycle and check the SOH again. The algorithm should by then have reset and calculated the SOH correctly.

It comes down to software. The Deye has a very configurable daily schedule. As far as I know the Solis is slightly less configurable from what I understand a co-worker told me. He has a Solis S6. Maybe look into that.

The first thing I would check is if the inverter is properly grounded. Once you rule that out, the issue is most likely with the filter on the AC output stage or some sort of missing shielding perhaps?

Do you have an oscilloscope handy? Does the AC output look ok?

@GavMich267You would be extremely lucky if only the fuse has blown most probably the output stage of the inverter is fried. This was an extremely hazardous incident that could cause the inverter to burst into flames and burn your house down imagine low impedance grid vs 1000w inverter. Good reason why a transfer switch is used between inverter output and grid.
I seen this happen to a generator that burst into flames the power head was completely blown off before the grid mcb tripped.

The inverter AC is definitely worth it. I have three installed at my house and I run all three at the same time on my 5kw Deye inverter off batteries/solar. Check out ACDirect their prices are decent.

Looking at doing the same quite soon.
The inverter AC is the better choice. Inverter AC's have a gradual start up, ramping up slowly and once the room has been cooled to the desired temp, ramps down and consumes little power to maintain the temperature.
A single speed AC is exactly that, single speed. Big spike in draw to get the pump going, then it hums away at 1.2 - 1.5kw, then shuts off, then back on, and off, repeating this cycle.
The extra money on the inverter AC in the long run is worth it as you'll use less power (more to go to charging up batteries).
I found a chap in Cape Town that has a special on Alaska 12000 BTU inverter AC's, installation back to back included for R7999.99, Aircon Deals (airconsdeals.co.za).
 
 
My parents had a 24000BTU inverter unit installed. They have 2 x Sacolar 5kw inverters. Has never peaked more than 1.5kw and cools their open plan lounge and kitchen down nicely.

Good day,
 
Thank you all for your responses. Ok, so to clarify here are the following facts:
We were never told of the electrical setup when we viewed the property. After the deposit was paid and lease signed, we were then told on the day we collected the keys. Kinda eleventh hour if you ask me. Agreed that I can into trouble for installing loggers for the house and the flat. Have spoken to the Dept of Labor and two electrical companies and they all said the same - this is not an alteration to the DB board. I did however, remove the loggers this morning, as we are now faced with getting an attorney. This "special" way of electricity provision is not stated anywhere in our lease agreement. The Mains of the flat is on my DB board in the house and according to the Electrical Competency Board this means that the tenant of the flat MUST have full access to my DB board at all times, in the event of an emergency. What if my wife and I are away on vacation? Leave my house keys with the other tenant? I think not!! I really appreciate all your input and am still stuck with a dispute with the landlord, as the report he is getting from the City meter in the flat show a total different unit consumption that what the data loggers show that are connected at the Main Breaker. There is about 10m travel from the Main Breaker to the Earth Leakage on the DB board in the flat and this is connected with a 2,5mm twin and earth wire.
Seems that we will have to get a lawyer today. Couple of thousand rand gone - a few days before Christmas!
Regards everyone! 

Personal opinion only. Even without considering electrical compliance, you may well be in breach of the lease contract by installing alterations to the property without consent. Before starting a fight with anyone, I'd start by re-reading your lease carefully, and worst case taking off any of your own equipment, and restoring it to original state, or the lease could be cancelled out from under you.
I'd ask for the landlord to install a different system, with own full sub-db and sub-meter for each home, ie. for you and the other tenant. You are neither a landlord nor a bank to the other tenant, I doubt that's part of your obligations under your lease to be a post-paid provider of electricity. Either way, before things get ugly, make sure worst case you're prepared to move.
 

@madness_za, update on this. I put 6x computer fans to help cool the inverter. The results are amazing. I get 20% more efficiency and the inverter is always within the 45-60Deg range

English dude English.
Translated.
Wow, your load is exceptionally low.
I had a Growatt 5kW inverter, and their settings are very sensitive if the firmware is not up to date – get the person who installed the system for you to update it.
 

If you are running a Deye/Sunsynk, Load First would be preferred as it means it will prioritize sending power to your essential loads and only after that is satisfied will extra power be sent to charge the battery.

I doubt it will make much of a difference. The vast majority of heat loss in a swimming pool is through evaporation at the surface. I good pool blanket that stops evaporation will be your best bet.

However I have never tried pool wall insulation, but I have experimented with pool blankets which make a massive difference (5 degrees C hotter or more)

To be honest i do not have faith in the Nenergy battery modules. I did a tear down on the 8 cell 100ah( allegedly) as i found plenty of disappointing discoveries. Seeing you have opened the battery module the changes of warrenty claim are slim... but this gives you opportunity to scrutinise and fix the module.
1. Discconect all 15 cells and individually top balance each cell but check for swollen cells first and replace them. 
2. Remove the bms and replace with a 8~ 16s JK bms.( The bms i removed was fried) 
3. Remove the mcb and replace with dc rated mcb.
Below results achieved after the 8s module overhaul and still going strong, i replaced 2 of the 8 cells due to swelling. Also replaced the original bms( no idea what make it was) The total capacity at the end of the day is actually 70ah 1792wh confirmed by the JK bms instead of the 100ah 2560wh stated on the rating plate.

Results after 4 days.

Ac Mcb replaced.

200A Jk Bms replaced.

 

Top balancing individual cells.
 
 
 
 

The SOH is calculated using an algorithm on the BMS. I would reconnect the batteries and ensure both fully charge and possibly go through a discharge and charge cycle and check the SOH again. The algorithm should by then have reset and calculated the SOH correctly.

I doubt it will make much of a difference. The vast majority of heat loss in a swimming pool is through evaporation at the surface. I good pool blanket that stops evaporation will be your best bet.

However I have never tried pool wall insulation, but I have experimented with pool blankets which make a massive difference (5 degrees C hotter or more)

There are two ways.
1. Disable time of use. Then the inverter will operate as a UPS and only use battery when grid is down.
2. Enable time of use and set minimum battery to 100%.

Those lines are probably for REDZ7 and REDZ8, they will be used in future:



Actual power lines:

The pink ones are 400kV and the light blue ones are 765kV so there is plenty of infrastructure to get power from the REDZ to where it will be used.



Special note for the electricity nerds, the purple lines are DC lines running up to the Cahora Bassa Hydroelectric dam.

My battery is big enough to get the job done, however not sure about the battery in this article.

My battery is big enough to get the job done, however not sure about the battery in this article.

The manual provides the answer. 49-50V is at 20%.

Hi all. Please see our development on the new platform and dark mode as requested. Soon!
Sincerely 
Jason