werner.potgieter

This cloudlink is really not worth anything.
 
I have 2 am-2  batteries --were not working well --support told me i need a firmware update. Went through all the hassle of getting the cable from them--did the upgrade --no idea if it worked or not. Hubble said I need a cloudlink so they can  log into my system  and check it worked.  I bought one (big mistake). If I use the serial port to get power from my inverter I get very limited info--SOC - pv input etc---no other info on my batteries like cel voltage  equalization staus etc. BUT they then cant log in---If I use the other cable they can log in but i get absolutely no info . So after hours on the phone ( at least 8 )i still have no idea if the update worked , if my batteries are equalizing or if one is faulty.!!!
To try and justify the 3k I wasted all i use the cloudlink for now is to establish if I have enough battery capacity to last the night on a farm that uses the batteries  as their only form of lighting, security camera's and wi fi. Only problem is their system is down so often that its useless  . When its down  i have no idea what is happening with the system and if I need to instruct the staff to run the gennie to charge up the batteries to last the night or not.
Surely if you buy a Hubble cloudlink system the very least you should get from it  is the most basic information you need to know if your batteries are working properly???
Really very disappointed  
P.S system down again
 

v1.7.1
Updates
Display up to two additional essential loads. See the additional_loads: attribute in the Load card section. Set the sensor to display using the essential_load2: attribute under entities Improvement to Autarky formula

Hi guys,
Thought I'd share details of my solar powered floating pool temp sensor that I put together to get pool temp data into Home Assistant.
Hardware required (had to use multiple vendors):
1 x Solar Panel 1 x DF Robot Solar Power Manager 1 x LiPo Battery - for the price, I just went with quite a big one 1 x Wemos D1 or similar - to use the external WiFi antenna, you need to shift a tiny zero Ohm resistor so you may need to find someone who can do this for you if need be. 1 x 1K Resistor - you'll only be able to buy these in bulk, they're cheap and they're handy for LED projects  1 x Submersible temperature sensor A few jumper wires 1 x short USB to micro USB cable: to power the ESP from the solar controller (optional, unless you want to use jumper wires) A few short pieces of wire to solder onto the solar panel to connect it to the solar power manager A few metal BB bullets for ballast A few silica gel things for good measure A Trip to your local hardware store for: Various PVC Pipes/PVC Weld/Epoxy/Silicone from your local hardware store or you can use this 3D print which someone on Reddit put together - I'm thinking of trying this given that the pool chemicals seem to be eating away at the adhesive that I've used to join the parts - the epoxy just peels off! Schematic:

 
You'll then need to assemble the actual housing and seal it up really well. Add some metal BB's to get it to float nicely and consider tethering it to the side of the pool with some string (just prevents it from getting bashed around by the Kreepy).
I would also suggest covering the solar panel in some glad wrap or something similar to protect it - the pool chemicals destroyed one of mine after +-6 months.
Code:
Initial code to obtain the DS18B20's Unique Sensor Address from the log:
esphome: name: pooltempsensor platform: ESP8266 board: d1_mini_pro wifi: ssid: "Your SSID" password: "Yourwifipassword" # Enable logging logger: # Enable Home Assistant API api: password: "apipassword" ota: password: "otapassword" dallas: - pin: D4 update_interval: 30s Once you've got the unique address, you can update the code as follows with your unique sensor address below:
esphome: name: pooltempsensor platform: ESP8266 board: d1_mini_pro wifi: ssid: "Your SSID" password: "Yourwifipassword" # Enable logging logger: # Enable Home Assistant API api: password: "apipassword" ota: password: "otapassword" dallas: - pin: D4 update_interval: 1s # Individual sensors sensor: - platform: dallas address: 0xa03c01f0965f0b28 name: "Pool Temperature Sensor" - platform: wifi_signal name: "Pool Temperature Sensor WiFi Signal" update_interval: 60s - platform: adc pin: VCC id: "VCC" internal: true - platform: template name: "esp.2.battery_level" unit_of_measurement: '%' update_interval: 5s lambda: |- return ((id(VCC).state /3.70) * 100.00); # Deep Sleep to save power deep_sleep: run_duration: 60s sleep_duration: 60min id: deep_sleep_1 It runs for 1 minute (to ensure it connects to WiFi) and then goes into deep sleep for 1 hour: (This was in summer BTW :D)

Anyway, here 's some pics:


Feel free to make suggestions and please let me know if you have any questions.

v1.6
Updates
This release adds System Timer information to the battery display. (PR#36 Thanks @Papsnoek). The card accepts 18 (optional) additional sensors to read data for the six time slots (prog1 - prog6). For example prog1 sensors below:
|prog1_time:| Optional | select.ss_prog1_time | Program 1 start time (HH:MM)
|prog1_capacity:| Optional | number.ss_prog1_capacity | Program 1 capacity (SOC) setting
|prog1_charge:| Optional | select.ss_prog1_charge | Program 1 charge options (on/off, 0/1, No Grid or Gen)
The battery display will show the set time slot SOC capacity next to the current SOC and adjust the time to charge or discharge accordingly. There is an additional icon next to the Timer On /Timer Off text which indicates if grid charge is active/inactive for the current time slot.
 


 

My setup is a 5kW Sunsynk with 2 stings of 8 panels each.
MPPT1=PV1=8x460W (Since July 2021)
MPPT2=PV2=8x550W (Since July 2022)
All the panels face the same direction and on the same tilt. Winter time in Pretoria data below.
Current graph for 22 May 2023

 
Voltage

Power

v1.5.4 Updates
Changes some sensors back to integers to fix rounding issues Introduces two new optional data points on the card through optional autarky: configuration under the inverter section. (Enabled by default set to no to hide. Autarky is the percentage of self sufficiency through Home Production. Ratio is the percentage of produced electricity used by the home. It calculated based on the formula below and borrowed from the Power Distribution Card Autarky in Percent = Home Production(Daily Solar + Daily Battery Discharge + Daily Grid Sell)*100 / Home Consumption (Daily Load + Daily Grid Buy + Daily Battery Charge) Ratio in Percent = Home Consumption(Daily Load + Daily Grid Buy +Daily Battery Charge) / Home Production(Daily Solar + Daily Battery Discharge + Daily Grid Sell)*100

no problem, thanks anyway I appreciate it. I'll stick with the modern image. I know fork all about forking code. 

Hi Jay !!
And everybody that congratulated me on winning.
Jay thanks a lot for persisting in getting hold off me. I am in Northern Cape , 70km from Kuruman, and in over 2 weeks , if we had 5 full days off signal, that would be a lot...
I have never won anything in my life , this is the best news I have had in a very long time.
Thank you very much for a excellent forum !
 

So how many 50 Rands do you need for the 3rd battery? 🤔
Here I am still on 1 battery and I know ideally I would be so much more independent with a second one or at least another 3kWh.
My R100 a month budget (and I don't even use that mostly) equates to R1200 a year or R12 000 over ten years. 
The additional capacity would cost me around R30 000. So from that perspective, at least in my mind, it just does not make financial sense. If and when my battery needs replacing, then I would definitely get a larger capacity. 

@suds7162 I quote, (My reasoning for the 200k purchase was mental health, as I was losing my mind with loadshedding.)
close quote, I'm pretty sure that 99% of us with installed solar systems, that was the main reason, to do away with load shedding. Then we realize that over and above the cherry on top of the cake, we are making quite a substantial savings pertaining to our electricity bill. Some go as far as working out the ROI of +_ 7 years. I'm not quite sure about that, the way we are using our batteries with 8 to 10 hours of load shedding daily the question is will the batteries last 3, 5. 10 years? nobody knows, in my case system is 18 months old and from my calculations, pretty accurate I may say I've saved 17.5 KZAR, if I have to purchase a new battery in three years of use that saving is down the drain. Let's hope these Lithium batteries last as long as the manufactures claim of 6000 Cycles.  
All I can say is that so far my battery has supplied almost 1,5 MW of power.

I contacted Sunsynk now. Here is a snapshot of the messages. 
 
 

In the highlighted text, I assume you referring to the OP's issue where SunSynk broke the inverter by installing 5k firmware on a 8k inverter.
I fail to see how this can be anything but 100% SunSynk's fault.
I would expect SunSynk to go the extra mile (as it's 100% their fault) to resolve the issue promptly without inconvenience or cost to the customer.
In terms of your other comments wrt to isolating the inverter for a firmware update (no load and no PV)

Most of the forum members would agree that If an inverter malfunctions during firmware upgraded when it's not in bypass - that's 100% SynSynk/Deye fault

Because:
a) the official SynSynk link for upgrades does not state that the inverter needs to be in bypass.
https://www.sunsynk.org/up-grade

b) the official SynSynk user / installer manual does not state that the inverter needs to be in bypass.
https://www.sunsynk.org/documents/
Sunsynk_Hybrid_Inverter_8kW_UserManual_v24_English.pdf
c) the official SynSynk training manuals does not state that the inverter needs to be in bypass.
https://www.sunsynk.org/post/training-manuals
Part 1 Training Manual Sunsynk - HQ.pdf
Part 2 Training Manual Sunsynk - HQ.pdf
e) the official SynSynk training videos (and there are many and I've watched most of them) does not state that the inverter needs to be in bypass.
https://www.youtube.com/@sunsynk5885

f) The official SynSynk technician actually doing the firmware update should check if the inverter is in bypass.
(They should definitely check that the firmware is correct for the model inverter)

g) It is not practical to put the inverter in bypass and just wait... and wait... and wait... 12h, 24h, 48h and hope that the update gets done remotely when SunSynk decides they have time.

h) The Sengen Application Note you link to states "Sunsynk will perform an update, this will reset the inverter. Ensure you are not supplying loads with the
inverter."
The way I interpret the statement is "the inverter will reset during the firmware update process and if you are supplying loads these will go off so bypass to prevent your loads being impacted"
I work in IT and have done plenty of firmware updates in my career - computers, routers, printers, cameras, storage arrays, disk drives, network switches, CPU microcode, HBAs, NICs, RAID Controllers, motherboards, fabric switches, firewalls, phones, DRACs, iLOMS, etc.
The first thing you check is that the firmware is for that model hardware or else you end up "bricking" the device.
Most newer update systems and firmware will auto-check compatibility first and not allow invalid updates.
SunSynk was released in "newer" age but still uses "older" design of not auto-checking.
Q. When is SunSynk going to provide firmware change logs to installers & public?

Me too! No more FW updates. I'm going back to flashing my laptop BIOS for kicks.

Hi all,
So I though I would share my experience with Sunsynk software updates and their support team.
In a nutshell it's not been great, I'm now going on a week without an inverter and only this morning has Sunsynk collected my inverter for over night to JHB for repairs.
My story so far.
Last week Monday I requested a software update for my 8 kw Inverter due to an intermittent issue it was having where approximately once a month or so the touch screen would freeze and it would become unresponsive. I logged this issue with my installer who went and spoke with the distributor (Segen Cape Town) who advised that a software update would remedy the issue.
I completed the online form as needed to request a software update from Sunsynk, I wait 3 days and on Wednesday I chase their support desk with an email. Where a prompt reply comes back and says they will do it shortly and have sent the request to their factory.
An hour or two later my whole house goes offline, I go an investigate and I find that the inverter is displaying an error F34 AC_Overload. I think nothing of it shut everything down and restart my whole system, where again the same error pops up and nothing comes back online.
I then start to panic and call the Sunynk support desk where on this occasion I manage to speak to a gentleman by the name of Gerrie, we go through the entire system and check all settings and nothing is adding up. I then open my Solarman app and start browsing in the inverter info section and see that he inverter rated power is now 5KW, well this is odd because my inverter is an 8KW.
I mention this to Gerrie who then ask me to confirm the firmware version that is currently on my device and it turns out to be e419 - MCU 3881 which is the firmware for the 5KW inverter and not the 8KW. At this point I'm proper panicking. Sunsynk has flashed the wrong firmware on my inverter! How does this happen? Are there no controls? Gerrie says we can flash the correct firmware and see how it goes, so I agree, lets do it, it can only get better right? So Gerrie sent the request to the factory in China to flash the right firmware.
It didn't get better, the flashed the firmware for the 8KW but not the whole firmware so now I am on e424 MCU6022, I do factory reset, reconfigure my inverter try to power it up, nothing same error comes up. Try get hold of Sunsynk Support, can't get hold of anyone. They promise they will call me back, nothing.
Call again the next day, get through to Gerrie he send another request to the factory, the factory is not responding today, call Gerrie again, he chases the factory. He manages to get a request through to do another complete firmware upgrade, I am now at version COMM:E42c - MCU6022-0717. Happy days I think, It's all fixed... nope not a chance. Factory reset, same error F34_AC_Overload.
Support is not coming back to me, try to get hold of Gerrie he's on another call. This in now Thursday afternoon before easter weekend. I somehow manage to get transferred to Brendan in the Netherlands and he also looks at the issue remotely, he confirms to me that according to what he can see my unit is damaged due to the firmware update. He says that we need to get my unit RMA'd, he will send an email to all the relevant people and update me.
Easter weekend goes by, no email, no call. Try call Brendan on Tuesday, not picking up my calls, try call Gerrie he's busy. Try again on Wednesday no one available. At this point I start googling managers of Sunsynk and find the support manager. I get no where, I call the helpdesk again, share my sob story with the receptionist and ask her to transfer me to a manager. I get put through to Gerrie, he has a vague recollection of who I am, says he will speak to his manager about my situation and get back to me.
Brendan from the Netherlands Whatsapp's me, he is off sick but he says that he has emailed relevant people to get my case moving.
Phone Gerrie again, inquire about the RMA and getting a replacement unit. He says that they don't do that, they will repair what ever is wrong with the inverter main board and ship the unit back. Even though this whole issue was caused by Sunsynyk human error flashing the wrong software version, they will not replace my unit. They will splash out for the courier, i need to prep the inverter for shipping.
I scramble to get my electrician to come out and remove the inverter from the wall, thank goodness he was able to squeeze me in. I no longer have the box as the install was over 18 months ago. I go and buy blankets from Makro, wrap the whole thing so it's padded all over.
Finally today on Thursday 13th April my inverter was collected by the courier to head up to JHB for repairs. Reading all the repair horror stories on this site I am not holding my breath to get my inverter back anytime soon. Hoping for the best though.

Eskom... have some stage 6 buddy!

They won't unless you tell them.
Reading the data is not visible to them. They wish the users not to have access the real time data it seems. Only someone trying to hide something would go to such measures. So much for transparency.
As a responsible enterprise one would welcome user feedback on the performance of one's product, unless of course you know your product is flawed and the failure needs to be blamed on the paying customer.

 

Don't waste your money on a Riot mate. They are overpriced fridge magnets at best

The password is stored in a .db file and not by the battery, so depending on where you downloaded it from and which entry it associated with your BMS, but most likely it will just default to the first entry, which starts in a 1 and ends in a 6. I'll leave the rest for you to work out 🤪

Hi all
I know that the temp of a Sunsynk 5kW has been discussed in several threads here. But I thought I'd share this nonetheless.
I am running 2x Sunsynk 5kW (one with 4.5kW on a single MPPT and the other with 2.3kW on each MPPT). As I thought that both inverters were running a bit hot, I have previously mounted a 120mm PC fan underneath each inverter to have air blow up along the passive heatsink. And with the inverter with the 2 strings connected still running a bit hotter than the other one, I have also placed 2x 140mm PC fans on top of the inverter, sucking air up along the back heatsink.
Yesterday morning my power supply for those fans failed around 03h15. I only noticed around lunchtime and put in a replacement power supply around 13h00 (after my batteries were full). Without the fans yesterday, my inverter temp peaked at 72.5 degrees. Today with fans, my temp peaked at 61.0 degrees. Rest of variables (load, sun, ambient temp, etc.) similar across both days.

To me a clear indication that the Sunsynk benefits from additional cooling

Initially I'd opted for a 5kW Sunsynk with a single 5kW Lithium battery and 3.6kW of panels, as a slightly more budget-friendly route. The plan was to expand the panels and batteries in a few months. Then I thought it would be prudent to get an 8kW inverter and the rest just tumbled in after.
A quote from Cudub Holdings for the 8kW inverter, 2 Freedom Won eTower batteries and 12 460W JA panels was competitive and the whole experience was great. Equipment delivered 2 days after accepting their quote, I paid the deposit the following morning and was called at 7h00 the morning after with an offer to install that same day due to a cancellation.
The installer from Cudub Holdings practically danced with joy seeing our single large north-facing roof:




 

Yip, RIOT was advertised as this awesome companion for the Hubble but it can't be used for remote firmware updates nor any useful data. Not even by Hubble themselves as I had one connected and they couldn't pinpoint the issue via it. 

Why are people still buying Hubble batteries?Seriously, some of the main installers/promoters of Hubble on this forum  have openly said they are not supporting them anymore after hundreds of batteries installed because of all the problems and lack of support . Do more research before you buy people . 
 

I'm happy that i can drive in and give someone the battery and get support  (which is why i bought the Hubble in the first place) but it is _-SuPeR-_ annoying that it is now working a month and broken a month alternating repeatedly after working fine for a year without any issues. It certainly can be a dud thing, and yes, any battery from any manufacturer can turn into a lemon just like cars, or any other product. i'll be treating it accordingly with Hubble support now as i clearly have something that needs a bit more attention than just a quick bench weld and off you go back to the customer (which should have happened the second time i sent it). Likely a full unpack, clean and repack, full re-weld of everything as new, or just give me another battery while you salvage that battery for whatever purposes (The cells are fine!).
Which other product has a local manufacturer warranty with offices you can actually go and touch in your province? LBSA? The installer needs to sort it out i agree with but they can only do so much if they can't reach out for product support either and they are processing the warranty on your behalf. These things are heavy, bulky and expensive and you can't just carry sufficient stock of batteries as an installer that are compatible with every client you have installed in their specific environment, for their dimensions and capacities and still be expected to have a functioning business after a year unless your charging rates and support fees that most people won't even care to do business with you in any case then unless your entertaining the 1% for business exclusively.
I'm now shit out of luck until end of January probably and even if i yell at an installer for an hour, what is he going to do, yell at Hubble, and then everybody just takes a beating down to the underpaid guy doing the welding which then throws a finger at the boss and walks out which then have to put a junior down there to get through their mountain of recalls because everybody keeps getting yelled at and then quit which means no experienced staff which results in QA being overwhelmed with subpar work, which leaks out the front door resulting in my poor battery acting like a lemon, the whole process just sounds "unhealthy".
Enjoy xmas everybody.. i'll be braaing with no power likely.

Here we go again. Battery worked for a whole 3 weeks and again stopped working with a DC VoltLow fault yesterday afternoon. All lights on the battery staying on and then shutting down. This time around i'm not at home for 2 weeks, so i can't do anything about it but bypass the inverter, and it is xmas time so this is going to be crap.

Hello lovely people!
I recently joined this forum looking to get some insights around a new backup power installation & thought it was finally time to ask for some advice as the frustration is getting palpable.
I also apologise in advance for the lengthy post.
First some backstory: We recently purchased a house at a new development & we were delighted to see that one of the optional extras we could pick was a backup power installation to alleviate the load shedding woes. So naturally, we picked that option as the price was incredibly good & I felt really chuffed about getting a good deal. But as they say, you get what you pay for... The spec sheet for the setup on the extras list was not particularly detailed - all we knew was that it was a 10 KW setup, inverter + battery only, no panels. Looking at what colleagues were paying for solar setups vs the price we paid, I started to think that they were going to wire a few USB power banks together & call it a day. We moved into the house about three weeks ago & the installers came to install the inverter & battery shortly after & to my surprise, they installed two 5 KW inverters in parallel with an actual lithium battery. I was gobsmacked that we got one of the fancy batteries everyone was recommending & proceeded to do a little happy dance when the installer was looking the other way.
Fast forward a couple days & I was feeling proper chuffed. Coming from an inverter trolley setup at the old place which could only power the router & TV, this new setup was running THE WHOLE HOUSE.  I didn't even notice when load shedding kicked in as the lights didn't even dim & I could continue sucking at Modern Warfare for at least a couple of matches. All was good. Until it wasn't.
I started to feel like I was missing something. You see, all the cool kids had these fancy apps & monitoring dashboards to see how much power they were using, what the battery levels were & all that neat stuff. I felt like a caveman needing to walk to the garage & look at the inverter to see if the power was on or not. Something needed to change. I perused the manual which came with my inverter to see if there was some kind of companion app I could download. No dice. There was only a QR code which directed to an obscure spreadsheet which I quickly dismissed as confusing. Then I remember seeing some software called Solar Assistant & proceeded to check if my inverter was supported. Initially I was thrilled - looking at the pictures provided, it seemed my inverter was a Voltronic inverter. It looked like a Voltronic, sounded like a Voltronic, smelled like a Voltronic. The manual even resembled the sample one provided in the Solar Assistant docs. Oh, happy days. I followed the instructions to install WatchPower & SolarPower, spent a couple of hours hunting down a USB printer cable & was off to the races. I booted up WatchPower, plugged the USB into the port on the inverter and... nothing. Okay, I thought, seeing as my inverter had "hybrid" in its name, I shall try SolarPower instead, and... nothing. Balls. This is the part where I stumbled across this forum & learned about these things called clones. Reading up a bit on the matter, my understanding is that for this particular class of inverter, there are the original manufacturers, Voltronic/Axpert, and roughly 5 thousand distinct clones which rebrand these models & put their own spin on them. My particular model is a SAPPHIRE HYBRID 5048 PV18-5048 VPK. Googling this takes me to this spec sheet, which says it's a MUST inverter, which I understand is a clone of an Axpert. So I have a cover version of a cover version of the original. I have a LimeWire edit of a Bump remix of the original song. This did not inspire confidence. After some more investigation, I learned that the MUST inverters' RS485 & USB ports operate over a binary protocol instead of an ASCII protocol (Solar Power Monitor 2.2.81 alternative - Design Software - Power Forum - Renewable Energy Discussion), hence the incompatibility with WatchPower & SolarPower. These MUST models only work with another piece of software called SolarPowerMonitor. I didn't explore that yet because another issue crept up which felt more pressing than monitoring.
One afternoon I came back from work & spotted something that filled me with dread: the clock on the microwave was reset. This could only mean one thing - the power went off. To confirm, I also checked my router uptime & saw that the power was interrupted right around the time a load shedding slot started. I immediately initialised the only monitoring solution I had and walked over to the inverter screen to see what was up. Both inverters were up & running with no faults & I checked the battery display & the battery was fully charged. The only thing that was different was that the master/slave configuration seemed to have switched around. The inverter that was master was now the slave, and the other was now the master. A case of role reversal. I was curious as to why that would have occurred, but my initial presumption was that when the grid went down, the inverters switched roles & because they did, the transfer from grid to battery was just not quick enough and this caused the power to drop for a split second, resulting in the microwave clock reset. This was a complete guess because I am still a complete noob when it comes to how these things actually work. Nevertheless, this was concerning as there was now this looming risk that sometimes - not every time - there will be a brief power drop when the grid goes out. This is bad for sensitive electronics & meant that I couldn't reliably keep working on my PC when the power is due to go off because there's a likelihood that it will briefly cut out. Plus, I would always need to re-adjust the microwave clock & that is just not on.
After this happened a couple more times over the next few days (the increased stages of load shedding did not help in this regard) I delved into the manual again. I spotted a setting for 02 - AC input voltage range which affects the transfer time. The default APL (appliances) mode indicates a transfer time of 20ms (for home appliances) whereas the UPS setting indicates a transfer time of 10ms (for personal computers). Hell yeah, I thought to myself. More faster = more better right? Perhaps the default mode did not switch over fast enough & that was causing the brief interruption. I wrestled my way through the settings & managed to change the mode from the default APL to UPS. Job done, time for a drink. The next few days it didn't skip a beat through all the load shedding slots. I felt like a genius for figuring this out. That was until this past weekend when I went to reheat some food & I spotted the microwave clock. It read: 0:00. 😐
These last two days it happened twice again. Once during a 6:00 slot & another during a 22:00 slot. I witnessed the 6:00 occurrence where it seemed like a 2-3 second interruption at least. It is worrisome & I'm not sure as to what the cause might be.  There is also another worrisome thing I noticed whilst constantly checking the battery level during this last week's hectic load shedding: the maximum SOC as reported by the battery is 92%. I contacted the installer about this & he is yet to come around this week to investigate as he mentioned that the voltages might need some tweaking. It's worth mentioning that 14 - battery type in the inverter settings is set to USE (User Defined) with custom voltages & the inverter isn't connected to the battery via the CON port, so I'm uncertain of whether the BMS is being leveraged or not. This battery is an Esener 51.2v 5.12Kwh 100Ah.
Anyway, apologies for the long story, I just felt that some context would be helpful. My questions to this wonderful community at this point are:
What could be causing the occasional interruption during switch-over from grid to battery? Is the interruption a common occurrence with parallel connected inverters? Could the lowered battery SOC indeed be voltage-related, or could it be a sign of a bad battery or early degradation? Any insight will be greatly appreciated. I've attached some images of the inverter/model detail if it would be helpful.
Have a fantastic day!

For the solarman loggers there is a secret menu where the mode can be switched to station only. 
Access the logger with a browser and log in. Then go to “http://xxxxxx/config_hide.html”
Not sure if the new Sunsynk logger also has this.