12 hours ago, esmail-kassir said:

I couldn't do many tests using manual settings because my inverter during charging and when the voltage exceed 55.X . inverter read much higher voltage than the battery , even it seems they are consistence in the other cases

Following up on this, I want to discuss this because I had similar doubts when I first transitioned from Tubular Lead Acid batteries to LiFePO4 with BMS a few months ago.

Now, I do believe that this difference is totally normal due to the fact that a BMS measures the voltage at its own terminals, and the inverter at its own terminals, which means that they're not measuring at the same electrical point (hence a voltage difference), which explains a big voltage difference when charging an empty battery using a high current.

@Coulomb would you please confirm to us that this is a normal behavior, at least for the VMs? I need to rest assured that's there's nothing wrong with this.

8 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

would you please confirm to us that this is a normal behavior,

I would only expect about 0.1V difference, perhaps 0.2V at most, and only at the highest charge currents. If there is a larger difference when the battery is being charged, that suggests high resistance in the battery leads (wires too thin, bad crimp, terminals loose, fuse ends corroded, etc). You can use a multimeter to find out where the voltage drops are, e.g. measure across the fuse. 

If the measurements did not agree when not heavily charging or discharging, then I'd suggest your battery voltage calibration is off. That value is stored in EEPROM, and can occasionally become corrupted. 

On 2024/10/27 at 11:57 PM, Tarek Yag said:

100% SOC is something defined in your BMS settings, though not all BMSs give you the choice to change this.

100% is the maximum rated capacity of the cell
If you don't go to the upper voltage -- you would not get out all the capacity

On 2024/10/27 at 11:57 PM, Tarek Yag said:

Dear @WallK, I really appreciate you trying to understand how everything works, but I think you really need to consider my words, at least! Trust me, lower the voltages you have. To gain yourself some more LFP batteries knowledge, go check out the Voltage vs SOC curve for LFP, this chemistry is crazy near the two curve knees! You never wanna go near them, that's were voltage is not stable anymore and you will struggle with balancing, and of course it's the danger zone!

I'll end the discussion here because we went way too off-topic!

I don't trust you after the parallel current fiasco 🙂
I won't touch the BMS settings for the simple reason of warranty
And anyway, it never goes there, even if 3.6 is too much and the quote below is wrong

Quote

The BMS cell Over-voltage setting is typically the same or slightly less than the voltage used for top balancing the cells

 

On 2024/10/28 at 10:04 AM, Tarek Yag said:

If this is the case, then the simplest solution would be increasing CV timeout, or decreasing Float timeout, or both to reasonable values!

There's no such setting in the firmware

 

14 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

WallK has his inverter connected to the BMS, unlike us.

I actually don't for a long time now

Edited October 29, 20241 yr by WallK

On 2024/10/29 at 8:16 AM, Coulomb said:

I would only expect about 0.1V difference, perhaps 0.2V at most, and only at the highest charge currents.

Since around a couple of months I'm certain that my inverter's voltage measurement needs calibration, as I always have +0.1 V difference than the battery's BMS readings, most obvious in the middle of the day when the battery is topped off and current is 0 A. Anyway, I'm certain that the BMS readings is the accurate one as I've taken so many measurements at the battery's external terminals with my accurate multimeter in so many times and scenarios, previously.

However, I'm used to observing very much higher voltage difference between my inverter and BMS (depending on the displays). The higher the charging current the higher the voltage difference I observe. I recall that it can reach up to a +1 V when charging on grid with 80 A. I'll try to take measurements on both terminals soon.

@esmail-kassir would you please tell us the difference you observed on your devices when you did your experiments? I think you would relate a lot to this from what I understood earlier.

On 2024/10/29 at 8:16 AM, Coulomb said:

that suggests high resistance in the battery leads (wires too thin, bad crimp, terminals loose, fuse ends corroded, etc).

All too well (like Taylor Swift says), and checked several times some time ago.

On 2024/10/29 at 8:16 AM, Coulomb said:

You can use a multimeter to find out where the voltage drops are, e.g. measure across the fuse. 

Will do for sure, as I'm very much interested in finding the answer.

On 2024/10/29 at 8:16 AM, Coulomb said:

then I'd suggest your battery voltage calibration is off. That value is stored in EEPROM, and can occasionally become corrupted.

I once tried applying your calibration instructions but didn't really understand what I was doing. Will do another and better try after taking my multimeter measurements, and might even ask you for some help.

6 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

would you please tell us the difference you observed on your devices when you did your experiments?

Delta when during discharging OR charging when battery less than 80% =0.2 V

Delta when top charging my battery =around  2 V 

Now I'm sad

I've noticed this too But I thought the problem was the multimeter

But now that I think about it, it's clear that it's not the multimeter but the inverter

There is "almost always" a 0.2v difference (inverter showing lower voltage) even without battery charging or discharging (load using solar) 

My old vm  II 2.5k didn't have this issue. Its reading were accurate and showed any voltage change instantly. it doesn't have any delay while the vm IIII 4k twin has 1 or 2 sec delay when showing the voltage 

Hello everyone.

First of all, my compliments to Coulomb and Tarek  for the support and work behind this post.
Then, a question that might help to understand better.
Regarding the VM 4 twin 6 k model, is there a way to know, based on the DSP firmware, which MCU firmware should be used?

I am currently using DSP 60.87 with MCU 39.26, is that correct?"

Steve

5 hours ago, Eddie1 said:

But now that I think about it, it's clear that it's not the multimeter but the inverter

There is "almost always" a 0.2v difference (inverter showing lower voltage) even without battery charging or discharging (load using solar)

Unfortunately, it seems like our inverters do not make as accurate measurements as our BMSs. But, I still believe it's not something that we really need to worry about, it might be due to cheaper components than other higher value Axperts.

I guess, if @Coulomb by the end of analyzing this phenomenon with us, says that what we need to worry about only is calibrating the voltage reading to the BMS with no current flowing, and it's safe otherwise. In this case, I think we'll be fine with these VM models!

I'm more excited now to take my readings as soon as possible, hoping to have the needed free time soon! It would be very helpful if you could provide us with more new readings for different operation scenarios from your inverter so that we can compare. @esmail-kassir too?

5 hours ago, Eddie1 said:

My old vm  II 2.5k didn't have this issue. Its reading were accurate and showed any voltage change instantly. it doesn't have any delay while the vm IIII 4k twin has 1 or 2 sec delay when showing the voltage

I think this is not a bug, but due to the display design which refreshes data. It's obvious that the display in VM IV models doesn't show real time data.

Thanks for joining the discussion!

Edited October 31, 20241 yr by Tarek Yag

2 hours ago, smsteves said:

I am currently using DSP 60.87 with MCU 39.26, is that correct?"

Thanks for joining in!

As far as I'm aware of, there's still only one hardware version of the VM IV display. Hence, only one major firmware version for each VM IV type (Twin and Non-Twin). As for your VM IV Twin display, the only major firmware version we're aware of is (39.xx). Though, there's one minor update that we found out recently, which is 39.27, you can find it in the following post:

https://powerforum.co.za/topic/29708-collection-of-dsp-axpert-firmware-for-vm-iii-twin-and-vm-iv-twin/?do=findComment&comment=210925

Regarding whether or not it's possible to figure out which MCU version to use based on the DSP version, I'm not aware of any clues that determines which goes with which, especially after my recent findings for the VM III series.

16 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

It would be very helpful if you could provide us with more new readings for different operation scenarios from your inverter so that we can compare

Sure thing

Once I collect enough readings in different scenarios I'll post here

On 2024/10/30 at 4:02 PM, Tarek Yag said:

I once tried applying your calibration instructions but didn't really understand what I was doing.

Sorry, they could do with a good rewrite, especially for more recent machines like the VM IIIs and VM IVs. They were originally written for MKS 1 models, and we changed our minds several times about how those are best done. Then there is the issue of ATE1 for the removable and round displays, which was not present back then.

On 2024/10/31 at 7:38 AM, Eddie1 said:

My old vm  II 2.5k didn't have this issue. Its reading were accurate and showed any voltage change instantly. it doesn't have any delay while the vm IIII 4k twin has 1 or 2 sec delay when showing the voltage 

That delay is probably because of the display needing to get around to sending the appropriate commands that respond with the relevant data. I suspect that the displays have a 1-2 second cycle for sending commands. They need to allow a fair bit of time for commands to be sent at the caveman speed of 2400 bps (around 240 characters per second; an 80 character response would take around a third of a second just for data transmission!). There are a dozen or so commands sent regularly; fortunately most of the responses are much or at least somewhat shorter than this). Maybe one day Voltronic will spend an extra dollar per inverter to bring the communications speeds up to a reasonable level. The ESP32 in my Electric Vehicle Service Equipment (AC "charger") updates its firmware at 921600 bits per second, 384x the speed of data transfer between inverter and display. Though firmware update do operate at 9600 bps, so that's "only" 96x slower!

 

On 2024/10/31 at 10:56 AM, smsteves said:

Regarding the VM 4 twin 6 k model, is there a way to know, based on the DSP firmware, which MCU firmware should be used?

You kind of have to know, or ask Coulomb 🤔  I'm not aware of any official list like this. For a particular combination, you can check my What Axpert Firmware is That? post, and check that they relate to equivalent hardware.

On 2024/10/31 at 10:56 AM, smsteves said:

I am currently using DSP 60.87 with MCU 39.26, is that correct?"

For the VM IV Twins, yes. But 60.xx can also be used with VM III Twins, and those have a very different display, requiring different display (MCU) firmware. The VM III and VM IV firmware versions (both DSP and MCU) are verry confusing.

34 minutes ago, Coulomb said:

Sorry, they could do with a good rewrite, especially for more recent machines like the VM IIIs and VM IVs.

I'll be more than happy to assist in the rewrite after a while 😁

I just had my inverter's PV and Battery MOSFETS replacment job done today. I have very important updates that I'll post in a couple of hours in my respective thread, and ask for more assistance!

After I finish the whole repair process, I'll begin with the calibration project by taking the promised readings first, gotta need your rewrite then! 😁

Edited November 1, 20241 yr by Tarek Yag

Hello everyone,

I have a Voltronic VMIII 6K Twin with original firmware 60.07 / 25.12 (I haven't seen the 60.07 version around here). And I have two curiosities with the inverter (which I'll tell you about later), and after reading the 16 pages of the thread, I've decided to update the inverter to the latest version 60.10, although not the MCU because I don't have a serial to USB cable yet.

I see that there are several of you who know a lot (thank you very much for all), and I've decided to write my first post to ask a couple of things about the inverter.

My configuration is a Voltronic Axpert VMIII 6K Twin with 2 Pylontech US2000C 48V batteries in parallel, and 5 x 600W panels in one string. Location Spain, 230V, 50Hz.

1.- The first issue is that I'm very surprised that when I plug the inverter into the Grid, but without loads on the AC output of the inverter, in bypass mode, and without input from solar panels, or from the battery, the consumption from the electrical grid shoots up to 2000W. I don't understand where those 2000W go. I don't see any leakage through ground cables, no charge to the batteries, no leakage to the DC of the panels, no leakage anywhere. That makes me think that it is reactive energy, but the measurement taken on the ammeter doesn't go down and the cable heats up. And it worries me. Do any of you see this as normal or do you know what could be the cause?

2.- The second thing is that in a scenario in which I deactivate every night the inverter from the round metal button located on the right side of the led screen, then the inverter turns off when it goes into charger mode without loads and without having power from the panels and having it unplugged from the grid. Once it turned off in this way, in the morning it starts up by itself when the panels reach 60V. But the thing is that, it has been like 10 days, in which at the first start of the morning it is configured as if it were the 4Kw and 24V model. It works fine at 48V according to the voltmeter, but the app and the screen and everything shows values of the 24V and 4kw model. Then I turn everything off and restart everything again and it starts fine with the parameters and values of the 6kw and 48V model. Why can this happen?

Today I updated to version 60.10 to see what it does tomorrow when starting up and if it gets fixed, and if it starts fine the first time at 48V.

And I've already checked to see if it continues doing the 2000w thing in bypass mode. That hasn't changed.

By the way, I also take the opportunity to tell you that the update has failed twice due to a reading error, once at about 1400 bytes and another time at about 700 bytes. The third time I put a very small reading into the computer's hard drive just in case for some reason it was going too fast, or went into energy saving mode. I don't know if it was a coincidence but it went fine the third time.  My heart almost couldn't count when I saw the reading error.

Now I'm scared to upgrade the MCU when the serial cable I ordered from Amazon comes.

Anyway, thanks you for all the contributions in these 16 pages!

 

Greetings!

 

(Sorry my english. I used translation tool)

I've finally tested with grid (and solar) charging at the same time and it never overshot the float voltage
EDIT: Sorry, I wasn't patient enough
After some time it got past it and sticked at 57.2V while batteries balanced

Edited November 4, 20241 yr by WallK

My inverter is Axpert KING II 6KW and I want the latest software suitable for this device, noting that U1: 60.11
U2: 19.18

The reason is the very annoying fan noise.

On 2024/11/03 at 2:27 AM, monsam said:

Greetings!

Welcome to the forum.

On 2024/11/03 at 2:27 AM, monsam said:

The first issue is that I'm very surprised that when I plug the inverter into the Grid, but without loads on the AC output of the inverter, in bypass mode, and without input from solar panels, or from the battery, the consumption from the electrical grid shoots up to 2000W. ... the measurement taken on the ammeter doesn't go down and the cable heats up.

That will be reactive power for sure, i.e. 2000 VA not 2000 W. But that 8 A will heat the cable just the same as a 2000 W load (at unity power factor).

But that's about 5x the reactive power than I expect to see. Perhaps this model has a particularly large smoothing capacitor, compared to 5 kVA models. I'm not surprised that the firmware update didn't fix this issue.

On 2024/11/03 at 2:27 AM, monsam said:

but the thing is that, it has been like 10 days, in which at the first start of the morning it is configured as if it were the 4Kw and 24V model.

Your model uses the same firmware for 4 kW and 6 kW models; it decides which it is running by measuring the voltage at a particular input pin on start-up. But the display has to ask the DSP what model it's running as well. If the DSP gets the model wrong, catastrophic problems are likely. If the display gets it wrong, then that's just a nuisance. It looks like it's just the display getting this wrong. It's possible that a firmware update to the display will fix this problem.

Be brave!

As a point of interest, were you using a USB stick and On The Go USB cable to update the main firmware?

On 2024/11/03 at 2:27 AM, monsam said:

The third time I put a very small reading into the computer's hard drive just in case for some reason it was going too fast,

That seems to be a bad translation. Could you re-word, please? I'm curious, especially if you have stumbled onto a method of making firmware updates more reliable.

@monsam, welcome to the community! Sorry for my late response as I was sick the last couple of days.

Would you please provide us with a photo of your inverter's sticker? You can blur or wipe out the last 6 digits of the serial number for privacy purposes, if you would like to.

Another thing, did you buy your inverter brand new? Or conducted any repairs?

1 hour ago, Coulomb said:

Be brave!

I recommend upgrading your display firmware, too!

1 hour ago, Coulomb said:

As a point of interest, were you using a USB stick and On The Go USB cable to update the main firmware?

I'm interested too! Whether you used a Flash Disk and updated using OTG directly, or used a computer and a USB cable, would you please describe what hardware/cables did you use exactly in each update attempt?

On 2024/11/02 at 7:27 PM, monsam said:

Today I updated to version 60.10

If you'd go with quieter fans, consider testing 60.95 in the future, as 60.10 doesn't have quiet fans logic, but not before solving your grid bypass mode issue!

On 2024/11/02 at 7:27 PM, monsam said:

That makes me think that it is reactive energy, but the measurement taken on the ammeter doesn't go down and the cable heats up. And it worries me. Do any of you see this as normal or do you know what could be the cause?

Just to make things clear, so you're saying that you're measuring the AC output with an external ammeter and it still gives you that there's an output of around 9 Amps? Did you try wiring an electrical extension lead/strip with no loads connected to it? I mean Instead of wiring your actual home loads on the AC output of the inverter.

11 hours ago, ahmad almawal said:

My inverter is Axpert KING II 6KW and I want the latest software suitable for this device, noting that U1: 60.11
U2: 19.18

Please open a separate thread for your request, or post in another thread related to Axpert King firmware.

Hello, thank you for the welcome and your comments.

 

9 hours ago, Coulomb said:

That will be reactive power for sure, i.e. 2000 VA not 2000 W. But that 8 A will heat the cable just the same as a 2000 W load (at unity power factor).

But that's about 5x the reactive power than I expect to see. Perhaps this model has a particularly large smoothing capacitor, compared to 5 kVA models. I'm not surprised that the firmware update didn't fix this issue.

7 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

Just to make things clear, so you're saying that you're measuring the AC output with an external ammeter and it still gives you that there's an output of around 9 Amps? Did you try wiring an electrical extension lead/strip with no loads connected to it? I mean Instead of wiring your actual home loads on the AC output of the inverter.

I do a test according to the following scenario:

The inverter is plugged into the grid via AC In. The inverter also has the AC Out output activated, but the general circuit breaker from Inverter AC Out to the house is down to eliminate any load. No batteries or solar panels.

I start the test with the AC Out circuit breaker down, with the round metal button on the inverter screen not pressed, and the inverter off and unplugged. Then I plug the inverter into the grid. It starts up and the meter on the AC In cable from the grid to the inverter indicates 40W. I press the metal button to activate bypass mode, but without loads. Then the meter on the AC In cable from the grid to the inverter increases to 2000W. Then I measure the rest of the ground/earth cables. And also the panel and battery circuits, although it is absurd because they are circuits that are open, but just in case there is a leak. And nothing, there is no leak.

Unfortunately I do not have meters that distinguish reactive from active energy. However, as you say, there is no other option than reactive. Without thinking too much about it, I think it is a preventive load that the inverter makes in order to absorb changes between DC and AC energy sources in milliseconds. Or it is an error of the inverter. In any case, it is an aspect to consider because a considerable reactive energy is being introduced into the grid, and the wear on components such as the inverter, wiring, etc. as well.

Something that would help me to discern if it is an anomalous behavior is to know if other users of the inverter also observe this same behavior. Or even if someone knows why this happens and how to mitigate this behavior.

 

9 hours ago, Coulomb said:

As a point of interest, were you using a USB stick and On The Go USB cable to update the main firmware?

9 hours ago, Coulomb said:

That seems to be a bad translation. Could you re-word, please? I'm curious, especially if you have stumbled onto a method of making firmware updates more reliable.

7 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

I'm interested too! Whether you used a Flash Disk and updated using OTG directly, or used a computer and a USB cable, would you please describe what hardware/cables did you use exactly in each update attempt?

I used the second method described in the thread explaining how to perform the update. That is, I used a laptop to perform the update, connecting a USB A to Micro USB cable. I connected this cable from the laptop to the inverter to its Micro USB. The inverter was already on with only the batteries. Then I opened WatchPower on the computer to check that the inverter was correctly detected, and I downloaded logs and browsed through the different parameters.

Then, from the WatchPower application on the mobile I activated the factory reset and removed logs (I preferred this option simply because it gave me more confidence). Then, I closed WatchPower on the laptop, and removed the automatic startup of WatchPower at the start of Windows 11 and restarted the laptop. I checked that WatchPower did not start in the task manager. And I started the update.

This failed the first two times with a read error and at different times. This made me think that the inverter memory was fine as it was not writable error, and that the update file was not corrupted because it happened at different times. So I thought that Windows 11 might be slowing down by going into sleep or low power mode, reducing latency or voltage of the SSD. I thought this because the update takes quite a while without me, as a user, interacting with the computer.
So on the third attempt I accessed the Windows 11 file explorer and kept browsing through folders and opening small text files, to keep a constant interaction with the computer.

There is no real basis to what I did, nor anything to confirm that what I did helped the update go well that third time. But it did. It may just be a coincidence.

 

9 hours ago, Coulomb said:

It looks like it's just the display getting this wrong. It's possible that a firmware update to the display will fix this problem.

Be brave!

Thanks, I think so too, that it's just the display getting this wrong.

The problem with the 26V start is what has me most baffled. I have come to think that it happens on the days that dawn more cloudy, and that it does not happen on the clearest ones. I think that it could be that on cloudy dawns the starting voltage is reached very soon but that there really is not enough amperage for a correct start of the screen, and that on sunny days there is enough amperage. I also think this because the 5 panels each have a Vmp of 44.68V, a Voc of 53.99V, with an Imp of 13.43A, in a configuration of 14m (7m+7m) of 6mm DC cable of the panels, and it starts to get colder in the morning when we are in the mountains. That is, there is almost no voltage drop which improves the start of the inverter but without amperage.

I have not really noted how it dawned each day, but I sincerely believe that this pattern coincides. It could be this, or that the inverter is broken.  

I also did another test yesterday. On the second start it always starts well. So yesterday I didn't let it start by itself, leaving the circuit breaker on the panels down. And when there was enough sunlight, I turned up the circuit breaker on the panels and the inverter started well on the first try.

7 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

I recommend upgrading your display firmware, too!

Yes, I will be brave and I will upgrade my display next weekend.  

 

7 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

Would you please provide us with a photo of your inverter's sticker? You can blur or wipe out the last 6 digits of the serial number for privacy purposes, if you would like to.

Another thing, did you buy your inverter brand new? Or conducted any repairs?

Ok. I can't right now, because I'm not there right now, only my father is doing the tests for me, and I'd rather not bother him with the photos. But I'll send the photos next weekend.

I am almost 99.99% sure that it is an original Voltronic, without a reseller. I bought it from a retail chain (Obramat) mentioned by Voltronic itself as an authorized seller. This one is brand new, unpacked and checked without any signs of use. In fact, I still have time to return it to the store.

 

7 hours ago, Tarek Yag said:

If you'd go with quieter fans, consider testing 60.95 in the future, as 60.10 doesn't have quiet fans logic, but not before solving your grid bypass mode issue!

I installed the 60.10 because it is the latest version on Voltronic's FTP and because the inverter is in the basement of a country house and I don't mind the noise. In fact, I prefer them to run faster because even though Voltronic released alternatives for quieter operation, they preferred to keep the fans at a higher speed in the original retail products. I guess that way they think the useful life of the components is extended, even if it is a minimum. However, it is almost certain that the fans will not last longer and will break sooner. But these are easy to replace, I think.  

However, seeing that it is one of the most used versions, I had it prepared as an alternative to 60.10, and if I had had a third failure during the update I would have tried 60.95. And I don't mind that it makes less noise either  . So I haven't ruled out trying it yet.

 

Thanks for everything!

@monsam, thank you for all the details you provided, WOW!

40 minutes ago, monsam said:

It starts up and the meter on the AC In cable from the grid to the inverter indicates 40W. I press the metal button to activate bypass mode, but without loads. Then the meter on the AC In cable from the grid to the inverter increases to 2000W. Then I measure the rest of the ground/earth cables. And also the panel and battery circuits, although it is absurd because they are circuits that are open, but just in case there is a leak. And nothing, there is no leak.

Super interesting to me!!! Can't wait to know the end explanation for this!

40 minutes ago, monsam said:

So I thought that Windows 11 might be slowing down by going into sleep or low power mode

This is most probably the case. As the reflash process takes around 10 minutes, if your Windows Power options (Turn off screen timeout, or Sleep timeout) are less than the period of time needed to reflash, your laptop will interrupt the reflash process when it goes idle and beyond these timeouts. Hence, as soon as you turn on the screen again, you'll get that exact error on the reflash tool. It's known and happens to me if I forget to disable the timeouts before I reflash if I'm to leave my laptop unattended. Nothing to worry about here, you're good to go!

40 minutes ago, monsam said:

The problem with the 26V start is what has me most baffled. I have come to think that it happens on the days that dawn more cloudy, and that it does not happen on the clearest ones. I think that it could be that on cloudy dawns the starting voltage is reached very soon but that there really is not enough amperage for a correct start of the screen, and that on sunny days there is enough amperage.

I very much agree with your theory, and I'm really impressed of how you analyze things! No wonder, Chinese products really need special logic to understand and explain it 😄 @esmail-kassir, any relatable context here with your 24 V one-time issue?

40 minutes ago, monsam said:

Yes, I will be brave and I will upgrade my display next weekend

Good luck!

40 minutes ago, monsam said:

I am almost 99.99% sure that it is an original Voltronic, without a reseller. I bought it from a retail chain (Obramat) mentioned by Voltronic itself as an authorized seller. This one is brand new, unpacked and checked without any signs of use. In fact, I still have time to return it to the store.

This makes a lot of sense, no hurry for the photo then.

40 minutes ago, monsam said:

In fact, I prefer them to run faster because even though Voltronic released alternatives for quieter operation, they preferred to keep the fans at a higher speed in the original retail products.

Decent logic! It's obvious you've read everything in this thread! 😄 Best wishes!

Edited November 5, 20241 yr by Tarek Yag

On 2024/11/02 at 5:27 PM, monsam said:

2.- The second thing is that in a scenario in which I deactivate every night the inverter from the round metal button located on the right side of the led screen, then the inverter turns off when it goes into charger mode without loads and without having power from the panels and having it unplugged from the grid. Once it turned off in this way, in the morning it starts up by itself when the panels reach 60V. But the thing is that, it has been like 10 days, in which at the first start of the morning it is configured as if it were the 4Kw and 24V model. It works fine at 48V according to the voltmeter, but the app and the screen and everything shows values of the 24V and 4kw model. Then I turn everything off and restart everything again and it starts fine with the parameters and values of the 6kw and 48V model. Why can this happen?

Hi @ monsam,

i  had a similiar problem with my VMIII Twin / 4kW last year,  in my case lost the inverter his serial number.

The problem was, that in the morning, with 230V off  and Inverter off (round button not pressed), when the sun begin to shine, the solarpanels create not enough energy for complete startup the inverter, so many attempts were made, until he starts.

Every attempt causes an interrupt in the start-up procedure, and sometimes the EEPROM becames corrupt. You will see it in Watchpower, Energy-Mate or Dessmonitor under "Alarm"

 

 

 

 

On 2024/11/02 at 7:27 PM, monsam said:

1.- The first issue is that I'm very surprised that when I plug the inverter into the Grid, but without loads on the AC output of the inverter, in bypass mode, and without input from solar panels, or from the battery, the consumption from the electrical grid shoots up to 2000W.

1- The only thing similar to this that i noticed is when i put the inverter mode on UPS it repeatedly draws about 1Amps AC on and off and on the battery end at the same time it cycles between drawing 1.5A at 25v which is the normal no-load draw to 0.4A and then again to 1.5 and so on.... 

I changed it back to APL and it stopped doing those weird draw patterns.

 

2- A question for fellow 4kw VM-III owners : Do you guys notice  flickering on neon or incandescent lamps 

because some times the flickering becomes noticeable to an annoying level !

and by the way i tried with no-load , high-load and it's the same.

 

Edited November 6, 20241 yr by Jamil Tulimat