Scorp007

Great answer to this winter problem. In line with one of my minor problems. I want to move panels from car port to a massive N facing roof but the bit I have to use grid does not warrant the cost of rewiring and all the hardware. It could take 10yrs for a ROI. We have a stable grid and I could adapt and found out on the single days I forgot to switch my PV on after big electric storms.

Just a warning. A heat pump is great and I have mine now for 14yrs. In winter with temps at close to zero the COP can be as low as 1 and in summer 3-4 times or more for a modern unit. Thus the heat pump does not help for winter.

Perhaps add the area you reside in if you need values of yield as it's no use quoting in Gauteng and you in the Cape. Winter there is like being in darkness compared to Gauteng😂 I have used this external method with success.

Do I understand correctly that if one cell has lower capacity the BMS with comms would slow down charging of the other 13/14/15 cells in order to help this weak cell? Would the weak cell not in any case even at low charge rate go into OV and then the BMS will still open circuit the battery even with comms?

Due to this 36V limitation I suggested the M602 model that switches 230V AC that one can then drive a beefier relay to the geyser.

Yes the 1st statement is true until the BMS fails and one does not see it early. Just look at the cycles under BRANDS LBSA how well @Antonio de Sa batteries are doing using voltage control.

They is as indicated. This to me is one of the greatest feature of the Sunsynk profile. A number of times when I am not sure if the battery would last during the early hours I find that it uses as little as 100Wh just to keep the battery at the set SOC until PV can take over.

Surely 34W standing load on a 8kW system that can on average over a year produce 40kWh a day(Gauteng) is counting the last cent in the wallet every day.

Not to my knowledge. The moment you are in a time slot grid will be used to get the battery to the SOC set and keep it there by using grid to charge and power the load. It does not do it at the end of the time slot but keep it there throughout the time slot. If the time slot was just 5min it might not get the SOC to the set SOC if it only happens at the end. It might be possible for a load that starts at a set time with a high surge current then one would ensure the timer is on say 5min before the start up to 5min after the load started and then go to the next time slot where one might have the grid switched off.

Double cardboard boxes could also do the trick.

As you indicated each for their own. If I have low PV instead of charging the late afternoon I just have use grid in the 4-6h slot. As the grid use to keep the battery at say the low setting can be very little. At times as low as 0.1 to 0.3kWh. I have a highish 450W standing load during the night. This works for me as we have very low instances of power failure. This saves the losses compared to charging the battery to prevent using grid.

Thanks for pointing it out. Quilty as charged as I only looked at this morning's posts. 😅

Just check if there are 2 thin wires on terminals 3 and 4 or 5 and 6 in the terminal box. If not there no CT is wired in no matter where the CT is.

Yes you get some with a voltage level that is adjustable and even the time can be over 5min to ensure proper speed up before going to full voltage.

Model specific. I have 3 without comms and blue tooth to the APP. The non comms one is what I indicated in my post.

Now what about the many BMSes like JK where the BMS performs the protection on a temp, each cell basis managing the voltage levels perfectly. It tends to do a better job than some OE BMSes and it does not use comms. If the inverter is at fault the BMS will stop charging/discharging and switch the battery off to protect every cell. Most if not all parameters can be set to match the cell values from the manufacturer.

I can just share my settings that work for no export to grid. On the system mode page tick only Zero export to CT. All other blocks blank. Make the solar sell value zero. Keep the always draw from grid at 50W. My thanks to @GreenFields for helping me out when my Deye exported to grid when I installed it.

Rather use a fixed load for enough power used like 0.2kWh from 40-100W and monitor the units reduced. Compare it to a car speedo that might not show below 10km/h but the distance still moves on as it should.

What size MCB feeds the inverter in your DB?

I can understand your frustration with them. I had a friend getting over 1yr old lead acids with problem and the manufacturing date was more than a Yr before they were delivered. Their response was plain and simple it does not matter as we did recharge them every 3 months so they are as good as any new battery.

Fully agree and thought it is checked after RMA.

Soft starter as per a previous post is your cheap solution.

Interesting that you need that lawn mower. Not sure what my 1800W starts at but running below 800W once on speed. My 5kW Deye very happy even from battery.

I would think that earth cables/copper earth bar are normally stolen. Neutrals would mean you will not have a grid connection? @wernerhp If you are on bypass with inverter disconnected do you still find the E/L tripping? If not then it points to the previous inverter fault and worth looking into it instead of looking at the E/L or house wiring.

Just an update. @TaliaB has been discharged. He will take a well deserved break and relax with family on a farm for a few weeks. We wish him a superb few weeks. 🙏🙏🙏