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Desperate for any help or advice

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1 minute ago, Oelof said:

Screenshot_20230814_203956_Gallery.jpg.f6a94c191d9961e54a49e4c2043c7b51.jpg

The -100C temperature is possibly an indication that the battery communication is not 100%. CT shows 0, so nothing coming from the grid? Inverter and Load power is also 0, so nothing flowing through the inverter? But yes, as I mentioned originally: why is the Normal light not on?

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@Oelofnavigate to this page please: Settings cog in the main menu then go to Li-BMS. It's the last option bottom right. Take a snap shot. I think your inverter Comms are not established. The normal light being off is definitely also a major problem. 

Screenshot_2023-08-14-20-54-14-191_com.adobe.reader-edit.jpg

11 minutes ago, Oelof said:

Only the stove and Geyser is not directly on the inverter  

Screenshot_20230814_204203_Gallery.thumb.jpg.cfd0ede432e1e13767bcd10d5ec15f12.jpg

Is there a second DB somewhere, maybe with a bypass switch, which handles the inverter power input / output from the inverter?

6 minutes ago, p_i said:

The -100C temperature is possibly an indication that the battery communication is not 100%. CT shows 0, so nothing coming from the grid? Inverter and Load power is also 0, so nothing flowing through the inverter? But yes, as I mentioned originally: why is the Normal light not on?

Did you check if there is communication between the batteries and the inverter? In the inverter display, go to Settings and select LI BMS. You should see a screen with the LI BMS information on the next screen. If some information is not displayed correctly on the screen, 
a communication error has occurred.

You need to switch mains and solar off remove all loads and with battery connected then the "Normal led should be ON it could take up to 5 minutes to establish comms between battery and inverter. When Normal is ON then reconnect the solar input and then mains.

@p_iwilling to bet good money there is no changeover switch in this Installation. Because if there is an AC supply to & from the inverter and there is no Changeover in this DB. Sorry to say my imagination runs wild. Because this would be were one taps off of the inputs from these 2 switches. 

I get very sick when I see Installations like this. @Oelofif you anywhere near to Honeydew please let me know I will fix this mess for you.

  • Author
7 minutes ago, Steve87 said:

@p_iwilling to bet good money there is no changeover switch in this Installation. Because if there is an AC supply to & from the inverter and there is no Changeover in this DB. Sorry to say my imagination runs wild. Because this would be were one taps off of the inputs from these 2 switches. 

I get very sick when I see Installations like this. @Oelofif you anywhere near to Honeydew please let me know I will fix this mess for you.

Hi Steve, I had a feeling that the guys doing the installation didn't know what they were doing. They told me after the installation that someone else would come and give me a COC. This is when I started sweating... they obviously didn't have a PV greencard. And its not someone I got of the internet, its my electrician from the same church I go to that Ive used for years. And he was not cheap! 🤬

There are definitely communication problems with the battery, the battery manufacturer technician said he will come through this week to have a look at it. 

I really appreciate your willingness to help, there are still good people in this world. I live in Elarduspark Pretoria unfortunately. If you ever come this side I will be willing to pay your petrol etc. 

  • Author
18 minutes ago, TaliaB said:

Did you check if there is communication between the batteries and the inverter? In the inverter display, go to Settings and select LI BMS. You should see a screen with the LI BMS information on the next screen. If some information is not displayed correctly on the screen, 
a communication error has occurred.

You need to switch mains and solar off remove all loads and with battery connected then the "Normal led should be ON it could take up to 5 minutes to establish comms between battery and inverter. When Normal is ON then reconnect the solar input and then mains.

Thanks Talia, there are definitely communication problems but the battery technician is coming through some time this week. 

What batteries do you have Oelof? Based on the RS485 12 it tells me you have either Pylontech batteries or Felicity lithium? It's a stone very far but I will be in Pretoria next week & I can definitely assist. Unfortunately in this business everyone is an expert & sorry to say lots of ppl ask for money for this & provide a functional installation. Safety, CoC as well as does it do what you want it to do is a whole other story. 

I pity you because as you have paid good money it's now maybe apparent that you may have been a victim of someone who maybe had good intentions but didn't deliver what was required. 

I will PM you my details let me know if I can assist. I have carried out a lot of Sunsynk installs & unfortunately, with your current setup not even Sunsynk will honour a warranty claim should there be an issue. So you need to get this installation safe, CoCed and functional so that you protect the funds already spent. On the battery side I can also assist & establish Comms. 

21 minutes ago, Oelof said:

Thanks Talia, there are definitely communication problems but the battery technician is coming through some time this week. 

Ok i could have assisted you but unfortunately i am leaving for Nelspruit tomorrow morning to do an install but i agree with @Steve87that there is no changeover switch installed. The installer(electrician) should have issued a COC and test report after handover and not send somebody else to bring you the COC it is not legal. @Oelofplease pm me a photo of the COC if you feel comfortable to do so as i am a board member of the ECB( electrical Conformance Board) these type of atrocities should not be allowed at all.

Edited by TaliaB
Correction

  • Author
2 minutes ago, Steve87 said:

What batteries do you have Oelof? Based on the RS485 12 it tells me you have either Pylontech batteries or Felicity lithium? It's a stone very far but I will be in Pretoria next week & I can definitely assist. Unfortunately in this business everyone is an expert & sorry to say lots of ppl ask for money for this & provide a functional installation. Safety, CoC as well as does it do what you want it to do is a whole other story. 

I pity you because as you have paid good money it's now maybe apparent that you may have been a victim of someone who maybe had good intentions but didn't deliver what was required. 

I will PM you my details let me know if I can assist. I have carried out a lot of Sunsynk installs & unfortunately, with your current setup not even Sunsynk will honour a warranty claim should there be an issue. So you need to get this installation safe, CoCed and functional so that you protect the funds already spent. On the battery side I can also assist & establish Comms. 

Thank you so much Steve. I really appreciate all your advice and assistance. Yeah, unfortunately I think I got a bit of a raw deal with this Installation. Thing is, he reassured me he know exactly what he's doing.  I guess people will do anything for a buck these days. 

I really cant express my gratitude enough for your willingness to help. 

I will check my private messages and then we can take it from there.

 

I have a felicity Solar battery.  

  • Author
3 minutes ago, TaliaB said:

Ok i could have assisted you but unfortunately i am leaving for Nelspruit tomorrow morning to do an install but i agree with @Steve87that there is no changeover switch installed. The installer(electrician) should have issued a COC and test report after handover and not send somebody else to bring you the COC it is not legal. @Oelofplease pm me a photo of the COC if you feel comfortable to do so as i am a board member of the ECA( electrical Conformance Board) these type of atrocities should not be allowed at all.

I completely agree, I will PM you a copy shortly. 

10 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

If both 10sq mm then too small for 63A E/L. May be my old eyes 😀

IMG_20230814_205751.thumb.jpg.1d14d16a5068805fad71888f40de701f.jpg

No def not those 2, but those on the left and right 

 

Wire.png

Edited by Virwat

14 hours ago, Scorp007 said:

Just a remark. It seems strange to see such a thick wire on the 30A MCB to the right of you main switch yet the 63A MCB has a thinner red wire connected. 

You have been given great advice so far. 

007, your remark intrigues me and had me pondering at the board for quite a while.  The only logic I can apply is that the 63A ELD (MCB you referring to)  had been decommissioned from the raw grid and repurposed as an ELD for the essential outputs of the inverter , hence the thinner wires .  If that is correct then it infers that the non-essentials have no more an ELD , which is possibly acceptable as the stove and geyser do not need an ELD per se (correct me if I am wrong here)

25 minutes ago, BritishRacingGreen said:

the stove and geyser do not need an ELD per se (correct me if I am wrong here)

As far as I know, stove and geyser do need ELD. Stove might be not on ELD, only if connected via a stove coupler but no one sells such couplers anymore.

  • Author
29 minutes ago, Bobster. said:

Wow! We have rock stars on this forum. I'm impressed at the amount of good advice (and more) that @Oelof is getting.

Yes absolutely. Thanks to everyone and especially @Steve87 for all the help. Its nice to know there are so many people willing to help, especially because a solar system is not a maintenance free system. 

The guys from Felicity Solar are come through tomorrow to sort out the battery comms and then we will take it from there. 

1 hour ago, BritishRacingGreen said:

 If that is correct then it infers that the non-essentials have no more an ELD , which is possibly acceptable as the stove and geyser do not need an ELD per se (correct me if I am wrong here)

We are giving away our ages and born before houses even had power let alone something like an E/L 😀😀

The changes in regs are all for the safety of less qualified sparky. Not meant at Sparkys as this apies to other trades too. 

I had a recent experience of a guy going for trade test and he failed. He was told he can come and rewrite the task he failed big time. The next day he passed. 

In our days we had to reapply for a date and wait months. 

18 minutes ago, Scorp007 said:

We are giving away our ages and born before houses even had power let alone something like an E/L 😀😀

The changes in regs are all for the safety of less qualified sparky. Not meant at Sparkys as this apies to other trades too. 

I had a recent experience of a guy going for trade test and he failed. He was told he can come and rewrite the task he failed big time. The next day he passed. 

In our days we had to reapply for a date and wait months. 

They are also just redoing the part they failed. We had to redo the whole test and it wasn't the same test as the first.

image.png.ef8427db87acfc93973799938eca7c75.png

I have one objection regarding the DB board , that is the point shown in the image where the essential and non-essential  are isolated  . The gap is too small  considering the cut  bus bar is bare copper. There should be regulation forcing an isolation barrier between different supplies , maybe there are such regulations . @Coulomb made an interesting observation the other day , in AUS bare copper bus bars are NOT allowed , in SA it is allowed. I  don't like the bare copper , albeit very neat easy to work with.

Edited by BritishRacingGreen

29 minutes ago, BritishRacingGreen said:

image.png.ef8427db87acfc93973799938eca7c75.png

I have one objection regarding the DB board , that is the point shown in the image where the essential and non-essential  are isolated  . The gap is too small  considering the cut  bus bar is bare copper. There should be regulation forcing an isolation barrier between different supplies , maybe there are such regulations . @Coulomb made an interesting observation the other day , in AUS bare copper bus bars are NOT allowed , in SA it is allowed. I  don't like the bare copper , albeit very neat easy to work with.

In normal Db there is nothing wrong with bare busbars. They are neat and do the job it was designed for. If there is any possibility for accidental shock or flash over the Db is not up to standard and must be changed. Saying that I do like these type of busbars a lot.

image.png.233c7809b0e2ad1c5ae5b56be692c923.png

1 hour ago, BritishRacingGreen said:

There should be regulation forcing an isolation barrier between different supplies , maybe there are such regulation

For voltages > 500 V, terminal shields are mandatory

breaker.jpg.d996ddb71f141778367db5d123033701.jpg

 

4 hours ago, Bobster. said:

Wow! We have rock stars on this forum. I'm impressed at the amount of good advice (and more) that @Oelof is getting.

I learned a great deal by following this forum. My system was installed 2 months ago by one of the reputable companies. I picked a few areas where they did not follow regulations and i insisted that they comply. If reputable companies have staff not following regulations religiously, i can imagine the chaos out there. @Oelof is lucky to have known where to post his questions and get great support.

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