Jump to content

63A & 100A Sonoff compatible Smart Breakers


Sc00bs
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys 

 

I found smart breakers that run on the Sonoff ewelink software and work 100% with Home Assistant without flashing Tasmota using the Sonoff Plugin. 

I was running Sonoff's with SSR's wired up to them but these are much neater and the lower power one has a power meter built in as well.

https://www.robofactory.co.za/home-automation/167-63a-1p-smart-circuit-breaker-with-monitoring-ewelink.html

https://www.robofactory.co.za/home-automation/161-1p-smart-circuit-breaker-switch-ewelink-100a-.html

 

Enjoy

 

JohnB

 

Edited by Sc00bs
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Sc00bs changed the title to 63A & 100A Sonoff compatible Smart Breakers

Hmmm, I wonder if putting a stove on the 40A is too much... I've seen it pull 6kw from the grid.

Currently our stove is the only thing not on the inverter so I have to guess it's consumption by taking (prepaid used) minus (inverter output) minus (inverter standby 50Wx24hrs).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 2021/03/25 at 1:44 PM, Sc00bs said:

Hi Guys 

 

I found smart breakers that run on the Sonoff ewelink software and work 100% with Home Assistant without flashing Tasmota using the Sonoff Plugin. 

I was running Sonoff's with SSR's wired up to them but these are much neater and the lower power one has a power meter built in as well.

https://www.robofactory.co.za/home-automation/167-63a-1p-smart-circuit-breaker-with-monitoring-ewelink.html

https://www.robofactory.co.za/home-automation/161-1p-smart-circuit-breaker-switch-ewelink-100a-.html

 

Enjoy

 

JohnB

 

Hey Sc00bs,

Can you share the link to the Sonoff Plugin for HA? I've just order one of these P1 devices, and looking to integrate it with HA.

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2021/05/31 at 11:32 AM, JuanH said:

Hey Sc00bs,

Can you share the link to the Sonoff Plugin for HA? I've just order one of these P1 devices, and looking to integrate it with HA.

Thanks!

Hi JuanH,

Did you implement the 1P device? I am also looking at ordering one - wondering whether it works properly?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2021/06/14 at 1:01 PM, Abraham said:

Hi JuanH,

Did you implement the 1P device? I am also looking at ordering one - wondering whether it works properly?

Yes, it works. The only issue I ran into was that I wasn't aware of the diffirence between DIN and Samite. The P1 being DIN, and my DB being Samite, it was a bit of an issue getting it to fit, but there are adapters available foer this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2021/06/24 at 9:32 AM, Abraham said:

Only thing I would like is to have hourly monitoring....

Do these switches have timer settings as well or are they on/off function only?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Abraham said:

I installed this behind my mains breaker, and earth leakage to provide extra protection. Stove is usually 40A. If you are worried, install another 40A in front of this.

Interesting that you use the words "if you are worried"  like trying to say don't be a pansy and just install the thing or maybe an indirect defense or something.

Well I'm not worried and was just looking at the facts of such an installation.  People should rather install the correct breaker in series based on facts as opposed to 'if they are worried'. Neither the mains breaker or earth leakage will provide 'extra protection'.  You have a breaker at the start of a cable to protect the cable.  If the breaker is bigger than the cable can handle then you are not protecting the cable.  But I don't know what cable size or what the cable current rating is to the geyser.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A circuit breaker is installed to protect the wire from overload.

A general rule of thumb: 

10 amp - 1 mm wire 

16 amp - 1.5 mm wire

20 amp - 2.5 mm wire 

30 amp - 4 mmm wire 

40 amp - 6 mm wire 

50 amp - 10 mm wire 

60 amp - 16 mm wire

"mm square" not actually mm in width. 

Free standing stove - 6 mm wire with a 40 amp mcb

Hob - 4mm wire  with a 30 amp mcb 

ELU - 4 mm wire with a 30 amp mcb 

Geyser - 2.5 mm wire with a 20 amp combo breaker. 

The installation must be designed as per the SANS regs ... these values are just a guide line. 

 

 

Edited by isetech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2021/06/28 at 7:16 AM, Pietpower said:

This is really nice with power measurement and all.

Is 63A not on the high side to provide cable protection if you install it in the DB.  What is normal breaker size for stove or geyser? 30-40A

You can set the maximum amperage or power that you want the switch to carry before it cuts off, anything up to 63A

You can also set Min/Max voltage

 428252551_WhatsAppImage2021-06-30at19_15_00.thumb.jpeg.437dcac5bc69c37e871f03f114920ee1.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2021/07/05 at 4:20 PM, MyInverter said:

Question on this - so are these actually Sonoff devices? Anyone flashed tasmota onto it (can you even do that with these devices?)

Don't think so, no easy way to take them apart, I have looked and the OTA flash doesn't seem to work 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Something to note with regards to stoves ... not all stoves are rated to 40 amp ... I have connected floor standing stoves to a plug socket (they are designed for that application).

As mentioned already the circuit breaker is there to protect the wire ... the stove have fuses for internal protection ... you can fit a 30 amp on a stove circuit ... it just means that you cannot use all the elements at the same time.

In the old days ... we use to install 4 mm wire with 30 amp circuit breakers for geyser circuit ... no we install 2.5 mm wire with a 20 amp combo breaker ( to save you having to install an isolator next to the geyser ... it also helps when you have an earth fault ... you can isolate both live and neutral at the DB ... without having to climb in the roof if you have a neutral fault. 

Make sure you understand switching loads when using these smart devices ... inductive ... resistive and LED ... in some cases day/night switches are not compatible for LEDs lights ... I thought if a device could work with a CFL's.. .then it would work with LED ... apparently not ... I recently purchased a device for switching LEDs ... there was a label "not suitable for LED" ... you learn something new everyday. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, isetech said:

In the old days ... we use to install 4 mm wire with 30 amp circuit breakers for geyser circuit ... no we install 2.5 mm wire with a 20 amp combo breaker ( to save you having to install an isolator next to the geyser ... it also helps when you have an earth fault ... you can isolate both live and neutral at the DB ... without having to climb in the roof if you have a neutral fault. 

Can you now get away without an isolator next to the geyser (or whatever equipment.)

I was under the impression an isolator is required by SANS regulation within a specific distance from equipment in order to switch off power to equipment without having to search for a DB.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The last time I read the SANS book ... the regs stated that a lockable isolator can be fitted in the DB ... that why we use the combo breaker/isolator in the DB ... the catch is that most electricians dont even own ... never mind carry circuit breaker lockouts. 

Then there is the plumbers who replace geyser elements ... but we wont go into that.

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...