Paul Greeff

I found this guide this morning. It ties in with what you're saying Tuniva.
https://www.cbi-lowvoltage.co.za/faq-category/astute-smart-controller-asc
Bit of a fail on their part. It will not pair if you set the Mikrotik as your DNS server. For some reason it needs Google DNS set in the DHCP server config, not my router. First time I've seen this requirement.
However, once I set 8.8.8.8 in the DHCP config it paired immediately and I can now do what I want with the DNS, it still works so all good.
 
The app is simple and works well, I look forward to using this on the geyser. 

I suppose you could look at your PV generated graph to see where there are gaps (i.e. when you use less/little, the PV generation will drop). 
If there are large gaps, like mine below, you could add another battery.
But be mindful that on cloudy days it will take longer to fully charge the batteries:
Blue = Production
Red = Consumption

Inverter: I run two houses on my 8 kW Sunsynk and between the two, now that we've shifted loads and reduced consumption where we can we use between 20 and 25 kWh per day, or 600 to 700 kWh per month. Except for days where the geyser, tumble drier and my ancient dishwasher (not referring to myself here, the actual machine) are drawing current at the same time we could even get away with the 5 kW unit. 7.2 kW for you application sounds like plenty, especially if you manage your loads appropriately. 
Battery bank: We have a 14.4 kWh battery bank which is just barely enough to get through the night. We have too many fridges and freezers, our cinema, although reasonably efficient runs well into the night, and we have quite a number of laptops that draw power until everyone is asleep. I can't see how you would run out with the almost 10 kWh battery bank with your usage. We're six people all using electronics till about midnight, so consumption is very high till then.
Solar panels: Lastly, I have 15x 300W solar panels. This is just barely enough for us, but consider again, I am powering two houses, including the geyser (on a timer) for the one house. So your panels should be ok. 
The only concern is what you're going to do on cloudy and rainy days. With thick cloud cover, solar dies almost completely. You can significantly oversize your array to squeeze a bit of power out of the little bit of energy that reaches us when it rains, but it might just be cheaper to add a generator to the system for those days. The last week or so here in Gauteng we used a lot of grid power due to the rain. Looking at our production, I would need to tripple the size of my solar array (at least) if I wanted to be able to get through the last week. However, this wasn't a particularly bad rainy week. So to that end I will be adding another 8 or 9 panels as that is all I can fit on the roof before moving to the other house. After that I'd rather just add a genny for those rainy weeks with load shedding. My two cents.

We've had the geyser on the timer now for a few weeks. I also added a thermal blanket to assist in reducing losses at night.
 
I am sure the situation will change a little bit in winter. As it is now, the geyser kicks in at 08h30 and shuts down again at 10h00. This is to allow other loads, washing, drier, etc, to get priority. At 12h00 the geyser kicks in again and is disconnected again at 15h30. The geyser was also turned down to 60C. It has dropped consumption to about 5 kWh per day from between roughly 7 and 10 kWh per day. That was a side benefit, the main problem addressed here was the geyser wasting battery at night, and this was successfully addressed.
One person has a bath at around 08h00 in the evening. The water is apparently still warm enough for a shower the next morning so its all good. We'll see what happens in winter.

Totally cloudy day today in Jhb. Sun was out for 2 mins and production from a 9360w array reached 10400w. 

Inverter: I run two houses on my 8 kW Sunsynk and between the two, now that we've shifted loads and reduced consumption where we can we use between 20 and 25 kWh per day, or 600 to 700 kWh per month. Except for days where the geyser, tumble drier and my ancient dishwasher (not referring to myself here, the actual machine) are drawing current at the same time we could even get away with the 5 kW unit. 7.2 kW for you application sounds like plenty, especially if you manage your loads appropriately. 
Battery bank: We have a 14.4 kWh battery bank which is just barely enough to get through the night. We have too many fridges and freezers, our cinema, although reasonably efficient runs well into the night, and we have quite a number of laptops that draw power until everyone is asleep. I can't see how you would run out with the almost 10 kWh battery bank with your usage. We're six people all using electronics till about midnight, so consumption is very high till then.
Solar panels: Lastly, I have 15x 300W solar panels. This is just barely enough for us, but consider again, I am powering two houses, including the geyser (on a timer) for the one house. So your panels should be ok. 
The only concern is what you're going to do on cloudy and rainy days. With thick cloud cover, solar dies almost completely. You can significantly oversize your array to squeeze a bit of power out of the little bit of energy that reaches us when it rains, but it might just be cheaper to add a generator to the system for those days. The last week or so here in Gauteng we used a lot of grid power due to the rain. Looking at our production, I would need to tripple the size of my solar array (at least) if I wanted to be able to get through the last week. However, this wasn't a particularly bad rainy week. So to that end I will be adding another 8 or 9 panels as that is all I can fit on the roof before moving to the other house. After that I'd rather just add a genny for those rainy weeks with load shedding. My two cents.

There are pro's and cons. I do like the idea of two inverters, but I didn't want the additional expense. But if you can do it, definitely.
It will max out at 8.8 kW with all sources blended. I am in the same situation, two houses (cottage for my parents). The 8 kW Sunsynk if more than adequate to run our loads. The one remaining electric geyer runs on a timer on solar and it works fine. On cloudy days the inverter blends Eskom with the solar.
As long as the Voc on the solar strings don't exceed the interter rating it should be fine. Current will be clipped if it exceeds the inverter rating. We only have 4.5 kW of panels, and thats perfect for clear days, but we do fall short on partly cloudy days. My next upgrade will be another few panels. I think with more than 10 kW you should be good to go.
The solar system only produces as much as the load you can put on it. So if the batteries are full and you don't have load, the energy goes to waste. Also, the batteries will charge at their max rate, in the case of my Dyness I am limited to 7 kW on the four batteries.
 
You can do that, or in my case I just used a CBI Astute wifi timer to time the geyers.
It is probably better to run it on the Aux output so the inverter can power down the geysers if your charge gets too low on a cloudy day. However, the Inverter will keep Aux load on while the battery has sufficient charge, so I still suggest adding a timer. You do not want the electric geysers to ever take charge from the battery. The same with the oven. I have limited the battery discharge in the evening so when the oven is in use a little bit of battery is blended with Eskom to feed the oven. The oven is on the grid side, so if Eskom fails, the oven stops working.
 
The above is my work in progress. More panels are in the works, from 4.5 kW to 6.9 kW, and perhaps one more battery, 14.4 kW to 18 kW, then I think my system will be sufficient for my needs.

The you should probably stay with the Axpert King 7k2W, since Eastman Kodak had absolutely nothing to do with the design and manufacturing of the inverter sporting their name and it seems under the actual Axpert name, its somewhat less expensive yet.
I have no experience with the Axpert inverters, but based on specs, it may also be a good option...

I run a 40 year old dishwasher, a tumble drier and a few other appliances during the peak of the day and often peak at between 7 and 8 kW on my Sunsynk. I know it is safe to do this on a sunny day because the batteries are rated to deliver 7 kW from my bank so they can handle the load when a cloud passes overhead. I do this during load shedding as well. However, before upgrading the battery bank I was limited to 3.5 kW, so my loads were adjusted to only peak at 3.5 kW or slightly over as the panels can handle the rest even when overcast.
 
The batteries are a crucial component in running such big loads even on clear days as all it takes to overcurrent your battery is one tiny cloud.
 
In my case, if I only had one battery I would have been limited to 1.75 kW or just a bit over so I would have had to limit my loads to max 2.5 kW.

I run a 40 year old dishwasher, a tumble drier and a few other appliances during the peak of the day and often peak at between 7 and 8 kW on my Sunsynk. I know it is safe to do this on a sunny day because the batteries are rated to deliver 7 kW from my bank so they can handle the load when a cloud passes overhead. I do this during load shedding as well. However, before upgrading the battery bank I was limited to 3.5 kW, so my loads were adjusted to only peak at 3.5 kW or slightly over as the panels can handle the rest even when overcast.
 
The batteries are a crucial component in running such big loads even on clear days as all it takes to overcurrent your battery is one tiny cloud.
 
In my case, if I only had one battery I would have been limited to 1.75 kW or just a bit over so I would have had to limit my loads to max 2.5 kW.

Same here, with a French Press and home roasted beans. But water from kettle after hot water needed is use, whatever's left goes into the thermos flask, to be added to the kettle on the next run... less energy wasted that way around...

There's the rub, the Sunsynk does not switch to mains, and then switch to batteries / solar. It seemlessly blends to lot. The downside is when the grid goes down, it needs to open the relay that connects the UPS to the grid. In that moment it seems to dip for a short while. The dip is visible on my lights that run on the UPS output but we're fortunate that none of our appliances seem to care.

My thinking is that the grid goes down and pulls the AC voltage down throughput the entire inverter until it detects and opens the AC relay that goes to grid. Looking at this block diagram I don't see how it can open fast enough to not have a short dip on all outputs. Notice there is no changover relay. Perhaps the grid voltage low (brownout voltage) can be set more aggressively so it cuts out sooner. Mine is set to 185V from the factory. Worth a try perhaps. 

Here is what I did to save a lot of water. I wanted to move away from flushing 200ml of urine away with 5>9 liters of pot able water. It started by me standing over a bucket while showering, then 2 buckets with a foot in every bucket, then me standing in a oval plastic wash basin. I then use the shower water to flush the toilet. I then got tired of carrying buckets around. I decided to dig a hole and plant a 200 liter blue plastic drum to catch the shower water (to prevent a possible collapse of the tank by the soil I filled the area around it with coarse sand mixed with dry cement, it became hard by drawing moisture from the surrounding soil). From the drum I use a small pump to transfer the water to a other container (68 L Rough Tote box) on a stand 1m above the toilet cistern. From there it is connected to the toilet cistern through a Stockman float valve (high flow low pressure valve). I use a normal float valve to control the level in the top box. I manually start the pump to fill the top box but I have a timer on the motor to stop it after 2 min or longer. If the need arrives I can still open the municipal water supply to the cistern if there is not enough showering vs using the toilet going on. 
What I found so far: never use washing machine water in this system as it starts to stink in 24hrs, normal untreated graywater takes about 5 days to become noticeable. I pop a chlorine pill in the underground tank (it last about 45 days) and if you flush the toilet there is a faint smell of chlorine which smells clean and fresh. I put a piece of shade cloth bag over the UG tank inlet to catch hair before it enters. There is a fine mesh filter between the UG tank and the top box, but it is of very little use after installing the shade cloth filter over the supply pipe. 
With a low flow shower rose we generate a little bit more shower water, than the toilet uses except if we get "non showering" visitors but this happened only once. If I see the UG drum have a bit too much residual water, around every 3 days, I change the pump outlet to the hosepipe and then water the garden. 
Previously I had to clean the UG and top box every 2 weeks due to funky smells but after not using washing machine water, the inlet filter and the chlorine pill everything is still smelling fresh and clean, the wife will inform me very fast if something starts to smell off.
We have nearly halved our municipal water consumption and now my garden gets more water than it ever did before. 
The pump can easily be moved to another blue 200L drum which collects the washing machine water but that gets pumped to the garden asap. 
Total diy cost was about R1000 (R400 second hand 0.37kw pump, R250 Stockman valve, R160 Rough Tote  68 liter box, R100 float valve for top box and then some pipes and gardena fittings and scrap wood and iron to build the stand). 
Enjoy, it can be done. 

Builders Centurion also had a few Astutes left. The website lies and says there is no stock, but when I bought there were 7 in the cabinet.
 
At the CBI webinar yesterday they indicated the CBI plug should be here in May if I recall correctly.

Gearify - also do direct imports from China, and the bonus is they take care of all the customs hassles and deliver direct to your door, so maybe try their search too and see if they have what you are looking for.
https://gearify.co.za/

Solarman Smart
Try the link above. 

Thank you Tariq, this is a very handy feature.
 
The play store has the old version.
I downloaded and Installed the version from Solarman, https://www.solarman.cn/enterrace_2.html. With this one I have remote control from my phone. 

In your price range the pure sine wave inverters may not be an option.
 
Before I had solar installed I wired a R10k Ellies UPS trolly into my DB the two deep cycle model. I added a few red UPS plugs at critical locations for the Internet, my study and my wifes study. Our cinema was also powered by the red plugs to protect the projector. And lastly all the lights were also powered by the UPS. 
On the last day of the solar install while the last bits were being wired in we were without power for 5 hours. Both my wife and I worked the whole time on the UPS. In the past it got us through load shedding many times, often without us even noticing the power is off, except if someone tried to power a kettle.
This setup, with the wiring of the UPS plugs and DB board should end up costing less than R15k, including UPS, wiring and the electricians cost. If you want anything more than this you might want to consider uadding a zero to your budget and adding backup power for the whole house (excepting of course the geyser and any electric stoves and ovens you might have.

On the Sunsynk there is an option that specifies zero export power. What this option actually does is set a specific amount of power it must always pull from the utility in order to prevent accidental feeding back into the utility as this will trip some prepaid meters. And for other it might just mean you get billed for the bit of power you feed back accidentally.
So if I set this value to say 100W and I have a 1000W load, I might see just over 900W from the solar and 100W from Eskom to cover the load. Perhaps this is what you're experiencing?