6 hours ago, Fatboy said:

I tried that and maybe I amissing something. Please see my pins for both battery and inverter. I tried the layout exactly, I think so🤔

Will appreciate your assistance.

The blue and white should be same wire...

8 hours ago, JTK said:

The blue and white should be same wire...

Thank you for your response.

1. Still not working. Is your baud rate dip switch setup to 9600 on the battery?

2. Cable connection is Inverter- BMS -------> Battery RS485?

Cables us testing fine with only 3 pins on both sides. Maybe there is something wrong with my BMS board.

Thank you anyway

9 hours ago, JTK said:

The blue and white should be same wire...

@JTK, your GND is on which pin on the inverter side?

This morning not working again. Ffs. Switched off and back on and boom. 4/20

Re crimped the cable and i am back on bms. Willpower it down and back on to confirm when i am at the inlaws later. Worried the power cycle makes it lose comms every time. 

23 hours ago, Fatboy said:

@JTK, your GND is on which pin on the inverter side?

Third pin from left on one end and 3rd pin from right on other side. 

Still up and running. Something to try Fatboy. Put the US2 settings in as per previous instructions with the cable attached. Li flashes. Reboot and leave it for a few mins. The reboot is so the it boots without errors. Once booted and 5mins passed then change to Li and program 04...  seems to have work for me both times.. old folks currently on loadshedding and it behaves it it should...

Thank you  JTK, also experiencing load shedding since 18:00. I will try as suggested.👍

 

On 2021/03/12 at 8:28 AM, JTK said:

Could someone also perhaps assist with the firmware (all three). All of them. ( will send email address via message) 

 

Simply cant get the Shinewifi to work. I assume it is the third firmware update. Using laptop or phone I get to the login screen on the Shine AP and once logged in I can see it drops wifi and I effectively dont get authenticated keeping me stuck on the login or first screen post login. Also if someone can confirm the pinout for the BMS cable for a SPF5000TL HVM with a Pylon US3000c

 

Thank you!

Try this at your own risk

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12ttv9oCoC2rowUPDdsjfs0P4fz9DuSVt

 

Got it from 

http://www.cnbmoverseas.com/uploadfiles/2020/08/20200811100957704.pdf

 

Thought I would post this for anyone who runs into the same problem: so we tried to connect a 3000C to a Growatt 5000ES and had BMS comms issues. We tried profile 2 using RS485 and that gave us error 20 from the BMS and then switched off. 

My installer trawled some email from Growatt and found some reference to profile 52. We tried it: profile 52 is on the CAN side so we ran CAN to CAN and chose profile 52. Boom, works like a charm. 

Now all I need to figure out is why on earth the inverter stops float charging every 2 hours for 15 minutes and then charges again. It did the same thing when I was running a set of AGMs earlier in the week as well. 

7 hours ago, charliesjc said:

Thought I would post this for anyone who runs into the same problem: so we tried to connect a 3000C to a Growatt 5000ES and had BMS comms issues. We tried profile 2 using RS485 and that gave us error 20 from the BMS and then switched off. 

My installer trawled some email from Growatt and found some reference to profile 52. We tried it: profile 52 is on the CAN side so we ran CAN to CAN and chose profile 52. Boom, works like a charm. 

Now all I need to figure out is why on earth the inverter stops float charging every 2 hours for 15 minutes and then charges again. It did the same thing when I was running a set of AGMs earlier in the week as well. 

Actually on closer inspection it was my AGMs that cycling every 2 hours. The 3000C charges to 100%, floats for a few minutes and then discharges in Bypass instead of AC bypass until 95% and then charges up again. Rinse and repeat. 

 

Hi all,  on the Device Model:  SPF 5000 TL HVM-P

Thought I’d share because I was going nuts. Trying to get the BMS working on US3000C set as master + 2 x US3000B. Know the dip switch (ADD) is inverted. i.e. 

The Dip switch has been turned around on the US3000C for 9600 baud use(0001). Setting the wrong ADD will blow your BMS on the battery.
 

Know the RJ-45 cable supplied with the PylonTech battery kit from inverter to battery pin out has change. 

 

cross-over cable 1&2 to 7&8 as below. 6 other cables are straight through. Meaning from above img. Orange to brown remains in that order. 

 

 

Quote

Once Li02 has been set it is very important to switch of all equipment including batteries. Wait 10sec than power up battery, than inverter.  
 

To turn off the battery hold the SW red button for 2-3 sec. Than turn the switch off i.e. reverse the power On steps

Im hopefully that a firmware update becomes available so than I am able to change the charge amp on Program 2. I am so n communication with support @Growatt. 

 

Edited March 22, 20215 yr by Iss

On 2021/03/22 at 9:20 AM, Iss said:

 

Hi all,  on the Device Model:  SPF 5000 TL HVM-P

Thought I’d share because I was going nuts. Trying to get the BMS working on US3000C set as master + 2 x US3000B. Know the dip switch (ADD) is inverted. i.e. 

The Dip switch has been turned around on the US3000C for 9600 baud use(0001). Setting the wrong ADD will blow your BMS on the battery.
 

Know the RJ-45 cable supplied with the PylonTech battery kit from inverter to battery pin out has change. 

 

cross-over cable 1&2 to 7&8 as below. 6 other cables are straight through. Meaning from above img. Orange to brown remains in that order. 

 

Im hopefully that a firmware update becomes available so than I am able to change the charge amp on Program 2. I am so n communication with support @Growatt. 

 

So how I've basically sussed this lot out is: either you make a cable with pins 1&2 going to 7&8 on the other end and use the RS485 ports with program L02 (Or purchase the cable this way)...OR...

Use a straight network patch cable and use the CAN ports with program L52. Which as far as I can tell is actually just program 2 on the CAN side.

If you use the CAN ports then the 1st dipswitch on the Pylontech means absolutely nothing because it only changes baud rate on the RS485 side of things.

Edited March 23, 20215 yr by charliesjc
Crossover cable is not the same

I tried the Straight cable that came with the PylonTech kit. It does not work. Tried all the program5 Li > 52 it didn’t work. Check the post on this forum and seen that the cable is a cross over in my post there is a picture showing the Growatt side on the US3000c the pin out changed. @charlesjc remember the GND cable need to be crimped as well. 

17 minutes ago, Iss said:

I tried the Straight cable that came with the PylonTech kit. It does not work. Tried all the program5 Li > 52 it didn’t work. Check the post on this forum and seen that the cable is a cross over in my post there is a picture showing the Growatt side on the US3000c the pin out changed. @charlesjc remember the GND cable need to be crimped as well. 

Just looked at the cable that came with my battery and I'm not surprised it doesn't work: The little paper insert shows that pins 1-3 aren't used at all and quite handily the cable supplied has had pins 6-8 blanked off instead. Pin 6 being the ground you mention. I notice that depiction is only on this small leaflet thing and not in either inverter or battery manual. I'm using a straight network cable on L52 profile CAN-CAN which definitely works. Presumably because pin 6 is available for CAN-GND.

I'm not even going to try the cable that came with the battery because it clearly has been incorrectly made.

Edited March 24, 20215 yr by charliesjc
Added gnd pin story.

4 hours ago, charliesjc said:

Just looked at the cable that came with my battery and I'm not surprised it doesn't work: The little paper insert shows that pins 1-3 aren't used at all and quite handily the cable supplied has had pins 6-8 blanked off instead. Pin 6 being the ground you mention. I notice that depiction is only on this small leaflet thing and not in either inverter or battery manual. I'm using a straight network cable on L52 profile CAN-CAN which definitely works. Presumably because pin 6 is available for CAN-GND.

I'm not even going to try the cable that came with the battery because it clearly has been incorrectly made.

 Check the model number: SPF5000TL HVM-P does not have a CAN port. It has the BMS & RS485.

The solution I posted is for the SPF5000TL HVM-P. 

Hi , thank you for this thread , i recently had the growatt 3kva 24 HVM inverter installed with 2x 200ah oliter gel batteries, the fan runs non stop since installation , according to the retailer this is a normal operation on this 3kva inverter , please advise if anyone else is having the same issue, and please refer contact details hoe to contact growatt to confirm.PS, no panels installed as yet.

Hi all. Thanks for the firmware provided in this thread, I have successfully updated my 5000TL using it to 500.09 in preparation for my new Pylontech batteries arriving. Problem is that program 24 is now gone and my grounding box does no longer work correctly after the update. Anybody had the same problem? Thanks

Hi All,

Just some closure from my last post. I was struggling to get the MCC (Max. Charge Current) up above 30A (2 x US3000B +1 x US3000C). I since than bought an additional US3000C ( thanks Inverter-Warehouse for driving the prices down.)

The BMS on the new PylonTech US3000C (Stock standard firmware - 03/03/2021 Production date) has now started to communicate with the inverter as I wanted.

My Kit is :

3.3K Solar array,

Growatt SPF 5000TL HVM-P

2 x US3000C + 2 US3000B =1 Stack

Setting are:

Hi Guys,

 

Im getting started out on solar but have the much discussed BMS communications issue between my growatt spf 5000tl inverters with 2 dyness B3 3.6Kva batteries (through the growatt can hub on rs485 ports) .

 

Does anyone know how I could get the mentioned firmware updates to solve this issue ?

On 2021/05/24 at 10:03 AM, Iss said:

Hi All,

Just some closure from my last post. I was struggling to get the MCC (Max. Charge Current) up above 30A (2 x US3000B +1 x US3000C). I since than bought an additional US3000C ( thanks Inverter-Warehouse for driving the prices down.)

The BMS on the new PylonTech US3000C (Stock standard firmware - 03/03/2021 Production date) has now started to communicate with the inverter as I wanted.

My Kit is :

3.3K Solar array,

Growatt SPF 5000TL HVM-P

2 x US3000C + 2 US3000B =1 Stack

Setting are:

I just upgraded my 4x AGM to 2x US3000c on my Growatt SPF 5000TL HVM.
After following the guides (Thanks to everyone who struggled with this and provided the help), I did the following:

1) Created the network cable with pin 1,2 and 3 reversed to 8,7,6 the other side and cut all the rest.
2) Set the ADD to 0001 (reversed, it's pin 1 on, rest off)
3) Left the slave battery on ADD 0000 and connected it to master with a straight cable.
4) Set the Back to Utility to 10% (I am assuming with the 95% DOD I can safely set this to 5%)
5) Set the Back to Battery at 95% (Going to fiddle with this number so I can use solar to power load and charge at the same time instead of using mains to power load while the solar charges to 95%)

Everything appears to be working except two things

1) Every morning when my batteries drop below 10%, the Inverter powers off after around 5 mins of low voltage warning instead of switching back to utility. (I found some Pylontech US3000c guide stating that on Growatt SPF 5000TL you must not set back to mains below 20% as it will cause a low voltage warning, but I lost the link to that guide to make 100% sure) If that is correct, that means I can't really take advantage of the 95% DOD of these new batteries, and that sucks.

2) Since being on these batteries, there is something odd happening in the afternoon where it charges the batteries to 100%, then puts all load on the batteries and ignores the solar completely. Have no idea what could be causing this.

I am on SBU with OSO charging.

Anyone else getting these issues?

 

It is normal on the growatts with 145v max on the solar side for it to charge the batteries to full then switch off the panels and run to 94 percent from batteries then switch on the solar again. This is so the lithium batteries dont get overcharged. This does not happen on batteries that dont use comms. This is especially annoying when the solar is switch back on as the sun is setting and the batteries cant charge up again. On the 500v solar growatts it can just stop charging the batteries and keep the solar running.

Edited May 30, 20215 yr by De0n19

My growatt and pylontechs behave the same way with the batteries running down until 94% and charging to 100% again, and I don't even have solar.

Damn, that's pretty annoying... losing all that afternoon sun.
Maybe with some smart timing, I can turn my geyser on for a bit longer and have the last of the afternoon sun get the batteries as close to 100% as possible.

Have also set my cutoff to 20%, will see if the low voltage kicks in again tomorrow.

 

On 2021/05/30 at 2:42 PM, Rooney Hat said:

I just upgraded my 4x AGM to 2x US3000c on my Growatt SPF 5000TL HVM.
After following the guides (Thanks to everyone who struggled with this and provided the help), I did the following:

1) Created the network cable with pin 1,2 and 3 reversed to 8,7,6 the other side and cut all the rest.
2) Set the ADD to 0001 (reversed, it's pin 1 on, rest off)
3) Left the slave battery on ADD 0000 and connected it to master with a straight cable.
4) Set the Back to Utility to 10% (I am assuming with the 95% DOD I can safely set this to 5%)
5) Set the Back to Battery at 95% (Going to fiddle with this number so I can use solar to power load and charge at the same time instead of using mains to power load while the solar charges to 95%)

Everything appears to be working except two things

1) Every morning when my batteries drop below 10%, the Inverter powers off after around 5 mins of low voltage warning instead of switching back to utility. (I found some Pylontech US3000c guide stating that on Growatt SPF 5000TL you must not set back to mains below 20% as it will cause a low voltage warning, but I lost the link to that guide to make 100% sure) If that is correct, that means I can't really take advantage of the 95% DOD of these new batteries, and that sucks.

2) Since being on these batteries, there is something odd happening in the afternoon where it charges the batteries to 100%, then puts all load on the batteries and ignores the solar completely. Have no idea what could be causing this.

I am on SBU with OSO charging.

Anyone else getting these issues?

 

Hi Rooney, Please check your option 21 =  low dc cut-off voltage, it should be set lower than your warning limit.