39 minutes ago, Vassen said:

Under normal circumstances, probably not much. 
 

under worst case scenario, all of it. Current will take the path of least resistance, if this happens to be the earth wire, then that will be it. Hence we cater for this worst case scenario to prevent things from burning down when the situation does arise.  It’s the same reason why the earth wire is generally the same thickness as live and neutral and for some applications, twin+earth wire is not recommended. 

Ah ok, but in normal circumstances where the relay is only performing the earth/neutral bond, the current flow should be near zero? My grid-tie inverter is connected using twin+earth, but I'm thinking maybe I should rather run a separate 6mm2 earth wire since it's connected before the earth leakage. That small bare conductor in the T+E isn't going to do much especially if if some fault develops that more than the bare conductor can handle but less than the MCB will trip at.

Hopefull the earth leakage breaker does it’s job way before it gets to the high current state

Although, twin and earth is a SANS approved cable, though !!

Edited January 28, 20215 yr by Tariq
.

On 2020/10/13 at 9:42 PM, Vassen said:

Here I go. 
 

if weather is really bad and chance of loadshedding then I just un tick “use timer” 

Hi Guys

 

Looking through these pics again and the manual, I just need to clarify the approach on:

1) Number of batteries;

2) Max consistent current draw

3) Setting on Sunsynk system screen

 

I know the max sell power should be set to your PV array size power however I see in most pics that the POWER COLUMN remains at either 5000 or 8000 depending on whether the person has 5.5kw or 8.8kw model.

Has anyone limited the power in the power column to say 3500 watt?

For example if you have two Pylon 3000C batteries with max consistent current draw of 74A combined, that means you can safely draw circa 3552 watts (74A x 48V).

From what I can see on the help screen, the Power column limits the power from the battery. 

I assume that in daytime you would still be able to use full available power from the PV array and that this will not be limited by the settings in the Power Column. Should a cloud pass by and the PV drops it could supplement from Battery or Grid (dependent on settings)

Has anyone tested this?

@Tariq - you only have 2 pylon 2000's? How do you ensure that you don't accidently push your batteries beyond the limit (25A per battery)

Thanks

 

 

Hi @branderplank, the bms limits it to 50 amps, never seen battery go much over 48 amps, even with total load, including non essential of 6.9 kW.

Thanks Tariq and Vassen for the feedback

It makes sense that BMS would limit the current draw and inform the inverter of this

Saw in another thread something about the Pylon warranty that will be void if charge currents are overstepped and it got me wondering how you could manage this within the Sunsynk settings.

To summarise then:

1) even if you only have two batteries, and

2) you are powering essential and non-essential loads at night,

3) the BMS will tell the inverter of the max capability/draw, 

4) the inverter balance the rest of the requirement against the grid.

Therefore something like a geyser element and kettle that could be switched on at the same time early morning, drawing maybe more than 4kw, should not "hurt" the batteries

On 2021/01/06 at 5:46 AM, BOEnergy said:

Hi Vassen

The setup includes the 8kW Sunsync hybrid inverter, 20 x 325Watt PV panels [10 panels per string] and 5 x 3.6kWh Dyness batteries. 

Will send some pics of the setup. 

I assume you have 10 panels in series per string ?  If that's the case, I see a problem! However I could be wrong and the experts can correct  me.

Your Sunsync specs states Max solar voltage (VOC) is 370v.

If you connect 10 Pv's in series, with VOC of 45.5v, then your input will be or 455v. This could fry your inverter.

36 minutes ago, Tokkiebod said:

I assume you have 10 panels in series per string ?  If that's the case, I see a problem! However I could be wrong and the experts can correct  me.

Your Sunsync specs states Max solar voltage (VOC) is 370v.

If you connect 10 Pv's in series, with VOC of 45.5v, then your input will be or 455v. This could fry your inverter.

PV voltage is 100v to 500v. MPPT voltage range is 125v to 425v.

10 panels would be too much and exceed the MPPT range so it will shut down above 425v and could blow up at 500v.

38 minutes ago, Achmat said:

PV voltage is 100v to 500v. MPPT voltage range is 125v to 425v.

10 panels would be too much and exceed the MPPT range so it will shut down above 425v and could blow up at 500v.

Do you calculate ate STC or NMOT?

Because 441VOC is probably well within the capabilities of the degree of variance of the inverter than 470VOC.

I find, in practice that 10 Canadian panels never exceed 390VOC.

5 minutes ago, PaulinNorthcliff said:

Do you calculate ate STC or NMOT?

Because 441VOC is probably well within the capabilities of the degree of variance of the inverter than 470VOC.

I find, in practice that 10 Canadian panels never exceed 390VOC.

NMOT. 

I have 11 x 305w panels and only get a max of 360v in the morning then drops to 330v as the panels heat up. 

On 2020/04/26 at 12:58 PM, Halcyon said:

 

I assume that your house wiring problem was a common neutral and when you split it the problem was solved? 

Hi all!

Hope all is well?

I have a Deye Inverter 8kw.

We have some problems with it.

It seems the time and date doesn't want to save. It saves but the next day it had automatically reset to factory default.

This results in the battery setup settings being messed up the whole time. 

Does anyone know what I can do? And do you think it could be a software update?  

Kind regards,

Andre

4 hours ago, A Rheeder said:

Hi all!

Hope all is well?

I have a Deye Inverter 8kw.

We have some problems with it.

It seems the time and date doesn't want to save. It saves but the next day it had automatically reset to factory default.

This results in the battery setup settings being messed up the whole time. 

Does anyone know what I can do? And do you think it could be a software update?  

Kind regards,

Andre

Not sure how the Deye interface looks but you need to remove the tick from the synch time option. 

4 hours ago, A Rheeder said:

Hi all!

Hope all is well?

I have a Deye Inverter 8kw.

We have some problems with it.

It seems the time and date doesn't want to save. It saves but the next day it had automatically reset to factory default.

This results in the battery setup settings being messed up the whole time. 

Does anyone know what I can do? And do you think it could be a software update?  

Kind regards,

Andre

My Sunsynk 5K had a problem where the timezone kept getting reset to a GMT timezone overnight. I also suspected it to be an online thing and raised it with support, they changed something and it never did it again.

I still keep the time sync ticked, reason being is that all clocks, even digital ones, will eventually drift a bit. I'd like the option of syncing it with my local NTP server though, or even a local stratum-2 timeserver. Will raise a UI feature request.

Hi Guys,

I'm looking to purchase a Deye/Sunsynk 5Kw for my Dad, but have a few questions regarding the pros/cons of the two inverters and the installation. Here goes...

Deye vs Sunsynk 

1.) I understand that the hardware is 100% the same, but that the firmware/interface is different. Is there any functionality difference i.e. can the one inverter do something or display info that the other one can't?

2.) I believe the warranties are the same, but that Sunsynk is better represented in RSA. Is this really an issue with Deye given that firmware is updated remotely? I'm trying to understand the long term benefits between the two brands, because it seems that Deye is the original equipment manufacturer and is internationally bigger, hence they should has more budget for future development.

Installation question:

 I have 12 x 365W JA panels and would like to put them all in serie on one string (Volts & Current specs given below), to possibly add a wind turbine later on the second mppt.

 - VMPP = 34 V

 - IMPP = 10.75 A

 - Voc = 41 V

The 5kW inverter shows PV Input voltage 370V(100V - 500V), MPPT voltage range is 125v to 425v, start-up voltage 150V & PV Input current 11 A + 11 A for the two mppt's.

1.) Will I be able to install all 12 panels in Serie, 12 x 41 V = 492 Voc?

2.) The inverter spec does not specify the max power per mppt, only the total for both is 6500W.  Does this imply that each mppt has a  max power rating of 3250W, because 12 x 365 W = 4380W?

3.) If I split 6 panels per string the voltage will be quite low with VMP at 6 x 34 = 204 V. Is this not to low as start up is at 150  V?

Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

8 hours ago, SuperStan said:

 

1.) Will I be able to install all 12 panels in Serie, 12 x 41 V = 492 Voc?

2.) The inverter spec does not specify the max power per mppt, only the total for both is 6500W.  Does this imply that each mppt has a  max power rating of 3250W, because 12 x 365 W = 4380W?

3.) If I split 6 panels per string the voltage will be quite low with VMP at 6 x 34 = 204 V. Is this not to low as start up is at 150  V?

Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

 

From what I understand you can over wattage the MPPT quite safely as the inverter can control the power it is accepting by increasing the resistance which will reduce power. It can't do the same for voltage.

The BIG thing to watch out for is over Voltage. I would be very worried sitting a 492V that I would get a spike over 500V and fry the MPPT. Voltages tend to spike during very cold panels and high solar power. 

Max per MPPT is 500v @ 11A 5500w.

The voltage on my panels goes up very quickly so I don't think that you would loose much time getting to over 150v if you put 6 panels in per string, my main concern would be a voltage drop if you cables are long or too thin, would make sure you use at least 6mm cables so probably better/safer to go 2 x 6-10 panel strings. 

Just install 10 panels in that one string then, that would be much safer than 12 from a voltage point of view. 

@Pumba, what size panels are these, also what is the Voc and Vmp, 

Hi

I hope all on this forum is well. I read up that Deye and Sunsynk are one in the same thing- thanks for this . 

 

I am looking for 6 -  5kW inverters. I need to parallel them in pairs of two for a 3 phase system, ie 3 pairs  of 2 for a  30kW system total; and with 6 or 12 MPPT’s. Is this possible?  The data sheet shows 3 phase is possible and also parallel is possible but not sure if both parallel and 3 phase is possible. One data sheet I stumbled across indicated it is possible but looking at the internal wiring , I don't see how it is possible. Extract of data sheet attached, refer to page 12.   In addition, some have 1 MPPT and some have 2 MPPT's. Also, they mention a 'plus' version? 

The models are: 

 

SUNSYNK-5K-SG02LP1
SUNSYNK-5K-SG03LP1
SUN -5K-SG01/03LP1-EU

 

Thanks

Kind regards

Wyatt 

 

Hi guys I don’t mean to disrupt this thread, I’m busy installing a Sunsync in  my garage where my Axpert used to be and would like to know if Sunsynk has a remote screen that I can install inside the house, or what similar options are there?  

Sunsynk has a remote portal that you can access on your phone or laptop, you should have a wifi dongle that plugs in at the bottom of the inverter

20 minutes ago, Tariq said:

you should have a wifi dongle that plugs in at the bottom of the inverter

Thanks Tariq, I did get the dongle with the inverter but I have not yet gotten that far to install it, I’m doing that over the weekend but I was wondering about a permanent screen mounted on next to the DB in the house so that I don’t need to use a laptop or phone. Might have to fit a Rasberry pi connected to WiFi with a touch screen unless Sunsync has a separate readymade screen. Any thought on that?

On 2021/08/20 at 9:28 AM, Gerrie said:

did get the dongle with the inverter but I have not yet gotten that far to install it, I’m doing that over the weekend

WiFi dongle installed on weekend and works with Solarman smart. One question if someone could please assist, do I need to tick the Sunsync “signal island mode” if I’m not feeding to council ? the inverter is set on the 20W continuous feed from grid to prevent the reverse meter flow to the council.

 

do you have the neutral-earth bond relay installed, if so, yes you do need to tick it.

the neutral-earth bond relay is very important , especially when there is no grid and when you measure voltage between neutral and earth on the LOAD side and it reads anything more than zero, it is a necessity to prevent being shocked. 

1 hour ago, Tariq said:

do you have the neutral-earth bond relay installed

Thanks Tariq, yes I did install the earth bond relay.

I hope someone can help. 

I upgraded my inverter to a sunsync 8kw.

My system details. 

1. Sunsync 8kw

2. Panels 12 x 300w on mppt 1. 6 x 400w on mppt. 

3.kodak L1 18kw battery

So I have 2 issues. 

1. DC is on but no power being generated. Breakers are on but nothing being generated. 

2. Battery is not being used by the system at all. I've set the timer but still no luck. 

 

Any advice would be appreciated