HI Guys 

Thanks for all the replies.

Here are some pics I took yesterday afternoon.  So the essentials are pulling 597 W

The battery is delivering 1766W 

The sun is giving 465

1536W is dumped to the non essentials which were disconnected at the time.

The CT clamp is around the incoming red wire which I suppose is live.

Regards

Attie

42 minutes ago, Attie Jonker said:

HI Guys 

Thanks for all the replies.

Here are some pics I took yesterday afternoon.  So the essentials are pulling 597 W

The battery is delivering 1766W 

The sun is giving 465

1536W is dumped to the non essentials which were disconnected at the time.

The CT clamp is around the incoming red wire which I suppose is live.

Regards

Attie

Why do you have solar export battery full ticked? 

Is the CT on the red incoming wire at the inverter or at the electricity meter? It should be at the meter. 

Looks like an installation wiring problem. 

Remove the tick from solar export battery full and see what switches off. 

Other issue could be that the internal CT sensors are faulty. 

HI Guys 

The solar export tick makes no difference.  I have tried just about everything.

I have not installed this one myself, but did the previous one. So I can remove stuff and test.

By isolating the non essentials, I opened their breakers, so they are physically not in the circuit.

Thanks

Attie

Im having a similar issue.

It only supplies the grid side when 'limit to load is ticked'?? 

Wondering if this might be a faulty inverter? But I'm trying to rule ever out first. 

I am sorry, but some of the naming of the options and descriptions does not really make sense to me?

Is there a reference document that gives a full description and function of each option?

Hello All,

I have read most of this forum thread, so excuse me if i missed it somewhere. I know that the Deye / SunSynk / Fusion inverters are one and the same merely rebranded but all emanating from the Deye factory. What i would like to know however is if the support channels are all different? @Johann1982 I noted the efforts that you went to in order to get support from SunSynk. Did this come via SunSynk or Deye the OEM? 

Perhaps someone can shed some light on the various brands and the support channels that exist? For example, I note on the SunSynk website that Ellies & Herholdts(?) are listed as distributors but none are listed on the Deye website. Fusion however appears to be a full on SA branded version much like the Mecer or RCT version of the Voltronics's Axpert...

Reason for asking is i note a small difference in relative pricing on various websites and just wonder if there is a premium being asked for the better supported brand of essentially the same inverter?

Thank you,

Trevor

 

 

 

Okay, so I did some more reading and I came across another discussion regarding Fusion vs Deye where my precise question was addressed. https://powerforum.co.za/topic/7465-fusion-hybrid-inverters-5kw8kw/

Advice offered by @Vassen is that SunSynk support is far better.

@Craigm did you go for the Deye from SolarAdvice and are your receiving expected support?

I haven't seen any comments about direct Deye or alternative brand support quality?

Thanks

Trevor

 

Have the Deye 8KW from Solar Advice.... great that the dongle came in the box.  Instructions for installation for somewhat weak but you can get by on the installation.  Don't expect support from Solar Advice on any technical questions, and the technician / installer I was referred to was not clued up either.... in fact, none of them could tell me how the Smart Load function worked so I had to figure this out for myself - and unfortunately did not proceed with using this.   

My plan was (and remains) to load my geyser as a Smart Load.... Has anyone managed to get this working properly???

 

3 hours ago, Pren said:

Have the Deye 8KW from Solar Advice.... great that the dongle came in the box.  Instructions for installation for somewhat weak but you can get by on the installation.  Don't expect support from Solar Advice on any technical questions, and the technician / installer I was referred to was not clued up either.... in fact, none of them could tell me how the Smart Load function worked so I had to figure this out for myself - and unfortunately did not proceed with using this.   

My plan was (and remains) to load my geyser as a Smart Load.... Has anyone managed to get this working properly???

 

@Tariq is using the smart load for his geyser and it works. 

I'm busy finalising the spec for my install and would like to ask you guys to double check my work. I'm looking at 8kw Sunsynk with JA Solar 410W panels. The inverter spec sheet lists PV input voltage as 370V (100V~500V), with MPPT range 125V-425V. What happens if the panels deliver 450V?

The panels are rated as STC VoC of 50.12V and Imp of 10.37A. I'm pretty sure going 2P on the panels is safe, the question is what is the max I should put in series? 8 in series gets me to VoC of a 400V, adding a 9th takes this to 450V. Would 9 be pushing the limits of the inverter?

34 minutes ago, Speedster said:

I'm busy finalising the spec for my install and would like to ask you guys to double check my work. I'm looking at 8kw Sunsynk with JA Solar 410W panels. The inverter spec sheet lists PV input voltage as 370V (100V~500V), with MPPT range 125V-425V. What happens if the panels deliver 450V?

The panels are rated as STC VoC of 50.12V and Imp of 10.37A. I'm pretty sure going 2P on the panels is safe, the question is what is the max I should put in series? 8 in series gets me to VoC of a 400V, adding a 9th takes this to 450V. Would 9 be pushing the limits of the inverter?

I use NMOT figures 

STC is under ideaal test conditions. 

As an example, my 305w panels is rated at 36.8V Voc NMOT. I have 11 panels and it should get to 404V. I have never seen my string go higher than 370V. You should be fine with 9 panels. I would however start with eight and monitor the voltage before adding the month one. I started with 7 panels per string before increasing it to 11 panels. 

7 minutes ago, Vassen said:

Remember the 8kw inverter mppt current is limited to 18A but more like 17 I think. If you are going to use 2p with panels that have a Imp of 10.37A, multiply x 2 gives 20.74A so good chance that you are going to lose around 3.7A, divide by 2 is 1.85A per panel. Multiply by Vmp of around 40V is around 75w. So your 425w panel is going to only generate about 350w. 
 

I have heard that the new models have 22A mppt but no one seems to have stock. Other option is to go with the highest wattage panels you can find with the lowest Voc and highest Imp and just use 1 string. 

Thanks. I'll hold out for a 22A one. With current panel specs, those extra few A make a big difference

18 minutes ago, Vassen said:

Remember Cape Town winters are very different from gauteng winters. The Voc is the max voltage that the panel can deliver and is temperature based. Under normal operation you are more likely to use Vmp which is the voltage at max power. This is generally what your inverter will be reading during the day.

good idea to start with 8 panels and monitor through winter. 

I realise that VoC is more of an upper limit, but I definitely don't want to fry my inverter on a sunny winter's day. The 8 panels as a start is probably a good suggestion

I just realised I haven't yet considered the voltage drop on the cable. 1.5 mm2 cable drops 29 mV/A/m. If I have a 50m cable run at 10A, that's 29V lost over the cable and should make space for the 9th panel. But I'll probably go with 8 at first just to be safe. 

3 hours ago, Speedster said:

I just realised I haven't yet considered the voltage drop on the cable. 1.5 mm2 cable drops 29 mV/A/m. If I have a 50m cable run at 10A, that's 29V lost over the cable and should make space for the 9th panel. But I'll probably go with 8 at first just to be safe. 

Midnight maths getting the better of me. Voltage drop is 14.5V

25 minutes ago, Vassen said:

Why are you looking at 1.5mm cable. Solar cable is 4mm or 6mm. Price difference between 4 and 6 is not that much and I’ve gone with 6. 
 

The idea is to aim for the Lowest voltage drop, not the highest so you can add another panel. 😂

Haha.

I worked off the cable specs. 1.5mm is rated for 17A so I figured that should be sufficient. Apparently not?

2 hours ago, Vassen said:

That’s general specs for wire. Solar cable is different. Well, it’s more the insulation that is different. 
 

Unless you have extremely long runs, the 4 mm cable is generally fine for a single string.  

I was today old when I learnt this. What's different between solar and normal electrical cable? 

For those with an 8kw Sunsynk, how would you describe it's sound / noise? I'm trying to decide between putting it on the patio (much easier install), or in the garage (a lot further, but won't be disturbing anyone. Decisions, decisions...

Hello All,

With reference to the SunSynk Protection Circuit show below, i have the following queries and would appreciate your assistance please:

Question 1:

I would like to confirm the size of the Supply & Load MCB's for the 8kW SunSynk. I have seen numerous discussions about the 5kW which is 35A. Depending on which Installation Manual you consult, i typically get the following:

      5kW

• Max. AC Output Current:                25A
• Max. Continuous Passthrough:      35A

      8kW

• Max. AC Output Current:                40A
• Max. Continuous Passthrough:      90A

Calculating using maximum available power of 8,800W one would get: 40A... 

Question 2:

What is the purpose of the single pole MCB that ties the surge protection to Earth? What size is this MCB for the 8kW SunSynk?

Question 3:

Can you please confirm that the double pole Isolator is there when you want to bypass the inverter and supply municipal power to your essential circuits? This ensures that no power can get from the inverter in this status... 

Question 4:

With respect to the required Earth bond relay that closes during loss of power from the utility for anti-islanding prevention, is this only possible with a 40A, 220V relay or has anyone managed to do this with a contactor? Is that allowed? Does anyone know where to get one in Durban / North Coast?

Thank you in advance.

Trevor 

 

 

1 hour ago, Speedster said:

For those with an 8kw Sunsynk, how would you describe it's sound / noise? I'm trying to decide between putting it on the patio (much easier install), or in the garage (a lot further, but won't be disturbing anyone. Decisions, decisions...

Mine is in an open plan kitchen. It can be loud but the fans only come on with a continuous load of more than 2kw. During the day the fans are on most times from 10am to 4pm in summer. It's getting cooler now so the fans are not running continuously. We have become use to it and hearing the fans go on gives an assurance that its working. 

Today's temperature graph. Fans turns on at 50° and runs for about to minutes then switched off at 45°.

Hi @Vassen

Thanks for your assistance.

1. Noted.

2. I'm going to install the SPD directly to E while i research further for interest.

3. Sorry I did not explain myself to well, i should rather have said when you merely want to by-pass the inverter. I'll have a look for the electrical diagram that you refer to. If this is merely the function then i have taken care of this with my 4-pole ON/OFF/ON 63A rotary isolator which does the same trick i.e. Isolates the inverter and bypasses Grid to Essentials DB.

4. Thanks for confirming. The chaps at ACDC Express were a bit stunned by the high amperage. I found one on the ACDC Dynamics website. The only difference i can see between the one that you obtained from Communica is the 'Form'. Your one is a Form 1C whereas the ACDC Dynamics one is a Form 1Z... Do you know what the difference is here? I believe that all we're really needing is a Normally Open relay with decent load carrying capability? 

https://www.acdc.co.za/pages/product-individual?JQX-50F 40VDC

I'll also try Voltex... 

5. New Question: I note that the wiring diagrams in the SunSynk installation manuals specifies to 2-pole MCB's. However, it is interesting to see that in the Deye installation manual (see page 18), there is a seperate diagram provided for Australian, New Zealand and South African installation requirements which is only done using a 1-pole MCB on the L. There is also a confusing text in the box that states: 'Do not connect this terminal when the neutral wire and PE
wire are connected together.'  But we are deliberately connecting the N to PE when we loose Grid through the Earth bond relay??? 

https://www.deyeinverter.com/download/product-manual/hybrid-inverter-2/

Thank you,

Trevor

 

On 2021/03/22 at 7:47 PM, Trev said:

Okay, so I did some more reading and I came across another discussion regarding Fusion vs Deye where my precise question was addressed. https://powerforum.co.za/topic/7465-fusion-hybrid-inverters-5kw8kw/

Advice offered by @Vassen is that SunSynk support is far better.

@Craigm did you go for the Deye from SolarAdvice and are your receiving expected support?

I haven't seen any comments about direct Deye or alternative brand support quality?

Thanks

Trevor

 

I ended up going for the sunsynk. I've had it running for about 3 weeks, no complaints! 

On 2021/04/04 at 9:54 PM, Trev said:

https://www.acdc.co.za/pages/product-individual?JQX-50F 40VDC

Managed to get one from ACDC Dynamics in Pinetown. Good price too! 

On 2021/04/02 at 11:21 AM, Vassen said:

As I mentioned it’s more the insulation that is different. the actual conductor is just a copper or some metal stranded wire. It’s thinner strands than GP wire. (I still don’t understand wire dc cable has finer strands AC wire since if you look at electrical conductivity, AC travels on the outer part of a conductor while DC on the whole solid conductor. Think it’s more for flexibility maybe)

However, Solar cable insulation is a lot thicker and has added protection to withstand the elements compared to Standard 12V or GP wire. The design life of the insulation/cable is typically 25 years as opposed to standard DC wire. 
 

The voltage rating is also higher at 600V. 
 

im no expert, just what I’ve researched a bit 

The guy doing my install said why they don't use the thin dc strand for AC is because there is lots of little sparks between the inner part of the cable. The solid core is to limit the sparks between the strands inside the cable.

8 minutes ago, Luminous said:

lots of little sparks between the inner part

Whoever came up with that one, has a vivid imagination, but no clue, I'd say. After all, would he claim that in RF application, with co-axial feedlines that sparking, he claims to occur, is beneficial? RG213, RG214, RG58 and many others all have a very fexible outer braided conductor, made from lots of very thin conductors, and no, they do NOT arc/spark it may be "Funk" in German, which means spark, but that refers to the original way of generating RF by way of a Sparking alternator, rotated at the required frequency, hence a Spark transmitter, which is pretty much illegal, since the harmonics & wide bandwidth would not be acceptable even in the eyes of the most lenient characters these days.

Normally in fixed installations a solid conductor is preferred, but, since these still likely will have to be pulled into conduiting and around a corner or two, the diameter of the solid conductor is limited by this required flexibility, so still stranded but thicker single conductors making up the whole than for a flexible installation.

If I am not totally off the mark, the resistance of the more flexible conductor is slightly higher than for the less flexible type at the same ^mm spec.